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Car Audio Myth: You Can’t Hear Low-Frequency Distortion

Low-Frequency Distortion

At least once a week, someone comments on social media or in a forum that you can’t hear low-frequency distortion from subwoofers or amplifiers. We have no idea where this myth came from. However, if you understand what distortion is and how it works, you’ll know this myth is utter and complete nonsense. Yes, we know we’ve challenged the status quo. Don’t worry; we can always back up everything we say with science.

What Is Distortion?

In car audio systems, two types of distortion affect the accuracy of the sound reproduced by the audio equipment in our vehicles. Harmonic distortion creates audio information in multiples of the sounds the system produces. The second distortion is intermodulation distortion, or IMD, which adds unwanted audio content at frequencies that are the product of two different sounds. Yep, a mouthful. Let’s explain with examples.

Example of Harmonic Distortion

Let’s start by discussing harmonic distortion. Let’s say a performer plays a B1 note on a bass guitar. With conventional tuning, that would produce a sound with a fundamental frequency of 61.74 hertz. That’s well into the range in which most car audio subwoofers play. As with all sounds, natural harmonics are present to give the instrument its tone or character. For now, we will ignore those.

In a theoretically perfect audio system, the preamp, amplifier and speaker (or subwoofer) would reproduce this 61.74-hertz tone with no additional harmonic content. If we looked at this theoretically ideal system, we’d see a single spike on a spectrum analyzer at 61.74 hertz, as shown below.

Low-Frequency Distortion
Spectral analysis of a 61.74 hertz sine wave.

In the context of this discussion about distortion, nothing else shows in the spectral domain above an amplitude of -95 dB. We can say that the 61.74-hertz note has at least a harmonic distortion level that’s better than -92 dB. Why not -95? Well, the signal itself, in this example, was created at a level of -3 dB FS. We chose this level to leave room to add some harmonic content without inducing clipping. So, 95 minus three is 92. This -92 dB level equates to <0.002512% THD.

Let’s introduce some harmonic distortion. Harmonic distortion implies that the additional unwanted content is an even multiple of the fundamental frequency. We’ll throw in some 123.48- and 185.22-hertz information as an example.

Low-Frequency Distortion
Second- and third-order harmonics added to the 61.75-hertz fundamental frequency.

Amplifiers and Speakers Add Harmonic Distortion

The above is typical behavior for a car audio source unit and amplifier. We can see a second-order harmonic of 61.75 hertz at 123.48 hertz at a -75 dB FS level. A third-order harmonic at 185.22 is now present at -85 dB. If we combine the amplitude of those harmonics (with a bit of fancy math), we get a level of -74.5861. To compare that to our fundamental, we would subtract three (to compare to our fundamental frequency) for a distortion level of -71.5861 dB or 0.0263%.

Consider this for a second: We fed the amp with a signal with no more than 0.0025% distortion. That level equates to harmonic content below -95 dB FS. The amplifier has added content at 123 and 185 hertz because of distortion. This distortion is information above the low-pass crossover point. It’s information the subwoofer will try to reproduce.

Example of Intermodulation Distortion

OK, we now should understand how harmonic distortion works. We get unwanted multiples of any frequency that passes through the amplifier. What about intermodulation distortion? Let’s add a G1 note from our bass guitar to our musical experience. The G1 has a frequency of 49 hertz. This frequency is also well into the subwoofer region of a car audio system. Let’s look at G1 in the spectral domain.

Low-Frequency Distortion
A 49-hertz tone with no harmonics louder than -95 dB FS.

Nothing stands out as abnormal so far. We have our fundamental 49 hertz at a level of -3 dB FS, and nothing else. Once again, this means harmonic distortion is better than ~0.0025%. We won’t be talking about harmonic distortion, so we need to add that B1 note at 61.74 hertz to explain intermodulation distortion.

Low-Frequency Distortion
Spectral analysis of 49- and 61.74-hertz notes played simultaneously.

So far, everything looks logical and makes sense. We have two notes or sounds played simultaneously. Having two frequencies playing is a requirement for explaining how intermodulation distortion works. First, we need to do a little math. The difference between 49 and 61.74 hertz is 12.74, which is called the f2-f1 frequency.

Showing what IMD Looks Like

The first thing that happens when an amplifier adds IMD is the addition of audio information at this 12.74-hertz frequency. Let’s add it to our spectral frequency analysis graph.

Low-Frequency Distortion
Spectral analysis of 49- and 61.74-hertz notes with the f2-f1 IMD frequency shown at 12.74 hertz.

As you can see, the amplifier has added information that wasn’t in the original recording at this 12.74-hertz frequency. The f2-f1 frequency is only the first issue related to IMD. The second issue is sidebands, which are additional distortion frequencies spaced at 12.74 hertz (in this example) on either side of the fundamental frequencies. Here’s what one set of sidebands looks like on our graph.

Low-Frequency Distortion
Spectral analysis of 49- and 61.74-hertz notes with the f2-f1 and one set of sidebands.

It’s easy to see that an amplifier or speaker that adds significant harmonic and intermodulation distortion would change how our music sounds. Remember that this is an example with only two frequencies playing, and we’ve excluded the harmonic content that the instruments would add naturally.

Every frequency from every instrument or performer is subjected to some harmonic and intermodulation distortion. Simultaneously, intermodulation distortion adds unwanted content between and on either side of every frequency.

Subwoofers and Hearing Low-Frequency Distortion

A while back, we published a short series of comparisons of subwoofers to analyze their distortion characteristics. A good-quality 10-inch subwoofer with robust excursion capabilities adds 2% to 3% total harmonic distortion between 40 and 100 hertz when playing at 90 dB SPL measured at 1 meter. Increase the output to 100 dB SPL, and you are in the 5% THD range. Yep, compared to electronics, speakers add a LOT of distortion.

Let’s reverse what that 5% distortion means if we play a 61.74-hertz note. Converting the percentage value back to a decibel number, we get -26.02 dB. To simplify the explanation, if the subwoofer created a single second-order harmonic (at 123.48 hertz), it would be 26.02 dB below the fundamental frequency. That would be very audible.

Let’s look at that in the spectral domain, shall we?

Low-Frequency Distortion
The output of a 10-inch subwoofer playing a 61.74-hertz note with 5% harmonic distortion.

Here’s what you need to remember when looking at this chart: The information at 61.74 is the audio signal from the amplifier. As shown, it doesn’t contain any distortion. The nonlinearities of the subwoofer itself add the harmonics at 123.48 and 185.22 hertz. You will hear these sounds that were not in the original recording.

Subwoofer Crossover Points and Hearing Low-Frequency Distortion

Harmonic and intermodulation distortion add frequency content to an audio signal because of nonlinearities in a source unit, digital signal processor, amplifier, speaker or subwoofer. By a long way, speakers are the worst in the amount of distortion they add to audio signals. Choosing good speakers is crucial. Every component in the audio playback chain adds a bit of distortion. Well-engineered audio equipment adds less distortion. The result is that your music sounds more precise, more detailed and more accurate.

Let’s tie all this talk about distortion back into the context of low-frequency audio playback. First, we know that the harmonic distortion characteristics of an amplifier and the subwoofer itself will add audio information to what we hear. This harmonic content will primarily focus on the 60- to 250-hertz range. Above those frequencies, harmonic levels drop off to below audible levels as other audio information will mask them. There will also be intermodulation distortion content that’s mixed in with the original frequencies.

So what does this sound like? The higher frequencies cause the subwoofer itself to be much easier to locate in an audio system. We typically choose a steep crossover point around 80 hertz for the top of the sub. However, harmonics at relatively high levels, one or two octaves above that crossover point, can trick us into hearing the sub-bass from behind the listening position. Of course, this assumes your subwoofers are behind you in the vehicle. If the amplifier and sub were perfect and did not play any audio much above 80 hertz, it would be much harder to pinpoint the subwoofer in an audio system. Aside from time-alignment phase issues, if you can pick out the location of a subwoofer easily, it’s probably adding a lot of unwanted distortion.

Hearing Sounds Not in Your Music

From a tonal standpoint, a subwoofer system with moderate to severe distortion of harmonics usually sounds boomy or tubby rather than tight and dynamic. The addition of unwanted midbass harmonics changes the sound of the instrument. In our theoretical perfect recording, our bassist playing only that B1 note creates only audio content at 61.74 hertz. Once distortion has affected the signal, we hear more like a good pluck of the B1 and a little bit of B2 and B3. It’s just not the same thing. Now multiply that by every note they play. What you hear is a slightly different instrument. You’ll still know it’s a five-string bass, but it won’t sound the same.

A kick drum generates another good low-frequency sound that can be affected by unwanted distortion. The sound of the beater hitting a kick drum’s skin is unique. When analyzed critically, it’s easy to pick apart. Depending on the drum and its tuning, you might have a fundamental around 40 or 50 hertz for an 18- by 24-inch kick drum. In a good recording, you can pick out the sound of the beater hitting the drum head. You can also hear the resonance of the sound bouncing back and forth inside the body. Hearing this requires that the audio system be balanced correctly in the spectral domain and have the lowest distortion possible.

Is Bass Distortion as Easy to Pick Out as Midrange Distortion?

So, why does the myth that we can’t hear low-frequency distortion exist? Almost all of us are used to hearing voices. No, the voices with our ears, not the “in our heads” kind. Many of us talk with people almost nonstop every day. When there’s something wrong with a voice in a recording, it’s very easy to detect. However, let’s say you are someone like Mark Petrocelli. Mark is the drum technician for Styx drummer Todd Sucherman, considered one of the top drummers in the world.

As with many experts in the field of drumming, Mark and Todd can tell you when the head of a drum is too tight or loose just by listening; they can probably tell you whether Todd is using a different stick or whether a skin needs replacing. Musicians simply become attuned to the instruments they play. The same goes for listening to audio equipment. If you focus on the music – the lyrics and the sound — then most gear might sound good. If you focus on the sound of each instrument, picking them out from the mix and analyzing their timbre and timing, you become very good at picking out good quality audio gear from the mediocre.

Low-Frequency Distortion
Todd Sucherman with his Pearl/Sabian drum kit. Image: www.toddsucherman.com

Hearing Low-Frequency Distortion is Easy

So, is it easy to hear distortion at low frequencies? Of course it is. Are most people good at detecting this distortion compared with midrange frequencies? No, not at all. However, that doesn’t mean they don’t exist.

Let’s wrap this up with a quick story. Last year, we attended an industry trade show in Canada, where we had the opportunity to audition a half-dozen demo vehicles. The one that stood out was the one that used subwoofers with significant distortion-reducing technologies. The bass was several orders of magnitude more accurate than all the other vehicles’. There was more definition to each note and better separation. Adding a shorting ring and copper inductance-reducing pole piece cap to the subwoofer design made a huge difference.

Low-Frequency Distortion
The T1-Series subwoofers from Rockford Fosgate include their Inductive Damping Heat Sink, which improves power handling and reduces distortion.
Low-Frequency Distortion
The Mille subwoofers from Hertz include an aluminum shorting ring to help reduce inductance.

So the next time someone says that you can’t hear low-frequency distortion, you’ll know that comment makes no sense. You can hear distortion; however, it reveals itself as unwanted midbass information. No, it doesn’t stand out like garbled midrange frequencies, but it’s there. If you want a car audio system with clear, detailed, accurate bass reproduction, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer and audition their subwoofer solutions. Ask about the technologies included in the subwoofer motors that make them more accurate.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Product Spotlight: Compustar EZGO-II

Compustar EZGO-II

Hands-free proximity unlocking is a feature found on many new cars and trucks fresh off the showroom floor. The Compustar EZGO-II adds this convenience to your remote car starter or security system. Let’s take a close look at this unique keyless entry solution.

What are Keyless Entry and Proximity Unlocking?

A typical keyless entry system uses a key fob to unlock the doors of your car or truck. The key fob communicates with the electronics in the vehicle using radio frequency signals. In most cases, you need to press the unlock button on the fob to disarm the security system and unlock the doors. This keyless entry technology was a major upgrade from manually inserting a key into a door lock, as was common in the ’90s.

Compustar developed a fully hands-free unlocking solution when it launched the Compustar PRO T13 and R5 remote controls for its starters and alarms in 2021. That same technology is now available in the EZGO-II proximity unlocking system.

Proximity unlocking refers to the automated process of unlocking the doors of your car or truck as you approach the vehicle. As we found when testing the T13 and R5 remotes, when you are about four or five feet from the door, the system will automatically detect the remote in your pocket and unlock the vehicle. In most cases, the tailgate of an SUV or truck will also unlock to provide full access to the vehicle.

Once the last door is closed, the system will search for the EZGO-II remote. When it doesn’t detect the remote, it automatically locks the doors. If you remain around the vehicle for five minutes or more after turning off the engine, the proximity locking feature is disabled until a door is opened or the vehicle is started.

With a Compustar remote starter or alarm and the EZGO-II, looking for car keys is a thing of the past.

The EZGO-II Remote

The EZGO-II system includes a small antenna and a compact, square remote with a single button. In terms of features, it’s surprisingly similar to the T5 remote we mentioned earlier. First and foremost, the remote will automatically unlock your vehicle as you approach. This is a godsend if you are carrying groceries or have one of your kids in your arms. Sure, you still have to pull the door handle to open it, but that’s always been the case.

Next, the remote’s single button allows you to lock or unlock the doors from up to 150 feet away from the vehicle. A single tap sends a lock command, and double-tapping the button sends the unlock command.

Finally, if you hold the button for 2.5 seconds, the remote will transmit a start command to your car starter. Pressing and holding the button again for 2.5 seconds will transmit a stop command. So, if you are in your home and the vehicle is in the driveway, the EZGO-II remote provides enough range to start the vehicle remotely.

The EZGO-II remote has a small LED that indicates when it is within range of the remote car starter or security system controller.

If you need additional range, then upgrading your car starter or security system with the Drone smartphone-based control system is a perfect solution. So long as you have access to the Internet, you can lock, unlock or remote start the vehicle. With a premium service plan, you can also use GPS-based tracking to monitor the vehicle’s location and how it’s being used.

Compustar EZGO-II
If you need more range to control your vehicle, add the Drone smartphone control system.

How Does Proximity Unlocking Work?

If you are like us, then knowing how something works is as interesting as the features it offers. The EZGO-II system uses a communication system called Bluetooth Low Energy, or Bluetooth LE. The key fob transmits a low-power signal that can be picked up by the EZGO-II antenna mounted to the dash. If the signal matches the security pattern, the antenna sends a digital command to the remote start or security system controller in the vehicle. That module then sends an unlock command to the vehicle’s door locks or, in some cases, the body control module (BCM).

When you close the last door, the antenna starts communicating with the EZGO-II remote again. Once the communication stops, as would happen when you walk away from the vehicle, the antenna sends a lock command to the controller.

Bluetooth LE was designed specifically for applications like what we’ve described above. These systems can consume as little as one microamp of current when in standby mode. As such, a typical CR2032 coin cell can last for more than a year. Even when communicating, the current draw is well under five milliamps. This communication is brief, however – lasting only as long as the remote is near the vehicle and the engine isn’t running. Put another way, the remote only consumes relatively high amounts of current while you are approaching or walking away from your car or truck. Honestly, that’s pretty cool!

Compustar EZGO-II
The EZGO-II remote control is incredibly small, measuring 1.5 inches square and only 0.25-inches thick.

Upgrade Your Convenience System Today

If you have a Compustar, NuStart, or FTX-branded remote car starter, the EZGO-II should be a compatible upgrade. Your Firstech (the parent company of the above brands) retailer can provide up to two additional remotes—whether they’re the EZGO-II or a more conventional one-button or four-button unit.

If you want to unlock your car, truck or SUV by simply walking up to it, you can find an authorized Compustar retailer near you using the dealer locator tool on their website. Be sure to follow Compustar on Facebook, Instagram and, of course, YouTube to stay up to date with all the new products and technologies available from this award-winning company.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Driver Safety, PRODUCTS, Remote Car Starters, RESOURCE LIBRARY Tagged With: Compustar

What’s the Ideal Car Warm-Up Time with a Remote Starter?

Warm Up?

Never in a million years did we think that the internet would debate the appropriate amount of time that’s ideal for a remote starter to warm up a car. Some folks believe that even a minute is too much, and others want the interior to be toasty and warm and are willing to let the vehicle idle for 15, 20 or even 30 minutes. Let’s talk about the physics of cold engine starting and why a little warm-up time can help get you on the road faster.

Engine Oil Science

There is a myth that whenever you start your car or truck, you inflict serious damage to the bearings, cylinder walls and piston rings because oil isn’t flowing. Modern engine oils are designed with adequate viscosity (thickness) and surface tension so they don’t completely drain into the oil pan when your car sits overnight or for a few days. Think of the fingerprints you leave on a stainless-steel fridge door. They don’t evaporate. That’s because the oils on our skin stick to the surface. The same applies to engine parts. If you want to test this, put a drop of cooking oil on your finger and touch a stainless appliance. That spot will be there until you clean it off with a degreaser.

If you put the car away for the winter and nothing moves for several months, there will be a bit of extra wear during the first start in the spring. However, so long as you drive your vehicle regularly, accelerated wear from starting isn’t an issue.

Modern engine oils include viscosity modifiers. An oil like 5W30 acts like a 5-weight oil at cold temperatures and a 30-weight oil when warm. The lower viscosity when cold helps it to flow better when it’s frigid outside. The W in the 5W30 stands for Winter. We got an email from a reader in mid-January informing us it was 49 below zero Fahrenheit near Edmonton, Alberta. It was 25 Fahrenheit in Anchorage! When it’s this cold, any fluid will have difficulty flowing. This doesn’t mean that you can’t drive your vehicle. However, it will take a while for the engine to warm up.

Ultimately, you’ll have to start your vehicle at some point if you want to go to work. So, a remote starter will give the engine a head-start in warming things up.

Warm Up?
Cold mornings are no fun. A remote car starter can help make your vehicle more comfortable. Image: Phil Heck

Transmission and Differential Warm-Up

Another argument against prolonged warm-up time is that the transmission and differential aren’t warming when idling. In the case of the differential, gear oil is usually 75W90 or similar in viscosity. After just a few revolutions of the driveshaft, every part in the differential will have a thorough coating. Just as with the engine, the lubricants don’t drain dry overnight or even after sitting for a few days or weeks. The oil coats the gear surfaces and the roller bearings. A colder, thicker oil provides more protection between gear surfaces. The only drawback to the differential being cold is that it takes more energy for the ring gear to move through the oil in the bottom of the case.

Most modern vehicles have a transmission cooler integrated into the radiator. Fluid lines from the transmission run up to connections in the radiator. A small heat exchanger might be in front of or behind the main core or a dedicated cooling channel and fins integrated between the engine coolant lines. Ultimately, once your engine is warm and coolant passes through the radiator, that speeds up the process of warming the transmission.

So if you don’t warm up your vehicle significantly, neither the engine nor the transmission will be warm. If you let the engine idle for a while, both will be warm. Worrying about one and not the other isn’t an argument against using a remote car starter.

Warm Up?
An example of a radiator with an integrated transmission cooler. Image: Summit Racing

Cold-Weather Driving

If it’s 40 below, you aren’t going to go outside, start your vehicle, then put your foot to the floor and drive off like Roscoe chasing Bo and Luke Duke. On the other hand, you don’t need to let your vehicle idle for so long that every fluid in every system is up to full operating temperature. The latter is a waste of fuel since it might take 10, 15 or even 30 minutes. Vehicles with physically larger engines take longer to warm up. A big V-8 engine has much more mass to bring up to temperature than a 1.5-liter four-cylinder. Idling is the slowest way to warm an engine. It’s not doing much work, so less heat is produced.

Suggestions for Engine Warm-Up Time

Here are our suggestions for an ideal minimum warm-up time for your car or truck. Whether you’re using a professionally installed remote car starter or are just sitting in the vehicle in your driveway, our benchmark for a minimum warm-up time is to wait for the engine idle speed to drop. When you start a fuel-injected car from cold, it typically idles between 1,200 and 1,400 rpm. The idle speed when warm might be 500 to 900 rpm. The coolant temperature sensors in the engine directly control the idle speed.

Go to your car or truck on a cold morning, hop in and start the engine. Listen to the engine speed if your vehicle doesn’t have a tachometer on the dash. Note how long it takes for the speed to start slowing down. This time can vary from five or 10 seconds on a warm day to a few minutes on a cold day. The speed dropping is a sign of some heat in the engine. Whatever the time it took is a perfect time to let your remote starter warm up your engine.

For us, we usually remote-start our vehicles just before getting ready to head out. We still need to put our shoes or boots on, get our coats on, and grab our keys, wallet or purse, and laptop bag. If it snowed, then we can brush off the vehicle and scrape the windows. Most of us have the rear window defroster, heated seats and heated steering wheel controls integrated into our remote starters. They’ll have time to warm things up if it’s below freezing. This is more than enough time for the engine to warm up. You can hop in and drive off.

As always, be gentle with throttle inputs and try to keep the engine speed down until the engine is at full operating temperature. Exerting extreme force on the engine when cold isn’t ideal. The gap between bearings and journals won’t have stabilized yet. These gaps, measured in the thousandths of inches, are small but are critical to maintaining a proper fluid (oil) film. Letting the engine warm up ensures that the appropriate film thickness is present for adequate wear protection.

Warm Up?
Engine builders measure the diameter of bearing journals to the thousandth of an inch or less to ensure proper lubrication. Image: King Racing

Tips For Cold Weather Engine Protection

Here are a few tips to make starting your car or truck on a cold winter morning easier and more reliable. First and foremost, if you haven’t already, switch to a synthetic oil at your next oil change. Even with the same viscosity ratings, synthetic oils flow better than conventional oils at low temperatures. Do you want a thick syrup in your engine or a fluid that will provide excellent protection?

Warm Up?
Synthetic motor oils flow dramatically better than conventional oils at low temperatures, even in the same viscosity ratings.

Make sure your battery has a complete charge. We’ve talked about battery maintenance at length. Invest in an intelligent charger to keep your battery topped up for those cold winter morning starts. Every battery loses some ability to deliver current when cold, so keeping yours charged and in good health is crucial. Proper maintenance with biannual or quarterly reconditioning will dramatically extend the battery’s life and prevent you from being stranded.

Warm Up?
The MUS-7002 from CTEK is one of our favorite battery chargers and reconditioners.

Turn off any electrical accessory you don’t need in your vehicle. Most modern vehicles have a computer called the Body Control Module that shuts down things like the heater motor or radio when you crank the engine. However, in many cases, some of these items are left on for convenience. If it will be very cold out, turn off everything you can think of when you park the car. Turn off automatic headlights, the radio and so on. This will reduce the draw on the battery when it’s trying to crank the engine. If a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer has added heated seats, make sure they’re off while the engine is cranking.

Warm Up?
OE-style seat heaters are a great upgrade to make your vehicle more comfortable. Image: ENORMIS Mobile Specialties, Erie, Pennsylvania.

If it gets extremely cold where you live, invest in a block heater for your car or truck. These small heating elements are installed in the engine block and warm the coolant. You can use a timer to turn the heater on a few hours before starting the vehicle. Likewise, a battery warmer might be a good investment if it’s frigid. A car dealership can often add a block heater to your vehicle. Remember to use a heavy-gauge extension cord with the heater to optimize its performance.

Make sure you have a set of good-quality jumper cables. If you have trouble starting the vehicle or need to help someone else, good cables (4 AWG or thicker) that are nice and long (20 feet) make jumping a dead battery much easier. Most importantly, if your battery has died, you must recharge it properly. This means more than running the engine for a few minutes. Invest in or borrow a high-quality battery charger with a desulfation or reconditioning mode and let it run a complete cycle on the battery. It should take eight to 12 hours to charge a completely dead battery back to its full capacity. The desulfation feature will stir the chemistry in the battery and restore or improve its performance.

Warm Up?
Though a bit over the top for most consumers, the 2/0 AWG Booster Cables That Don’t Suck from CE Auto Electric Supply in Gilbert, Arizona, put a smile on our faces.

Warming Up Your Car Adds Comfort

So what’s the bottom line on how long you should let your car warm up? Technically, a minute or two will be beneficial and allow the parts in the engine to build up some temperature. Do you need to warm your car for 15 minutes? We don’t think so. That’s quite a while, and you could run into trouble with anti-idling laws in your jurisdiction. When it’s time to add some comfort to your vehicle on a cold winter morning, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer and ask them about having a remote starter installed in your vehicle. Your cold hands will thank you for it!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Remote Car Starters, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Fine-Tuning Your Sound: Understanding the Power of Parametric Equalizers

Parametric Equalizer

When looking at the options for frequency response correction for audio systems, your installer has two choices: graphic or parametric equalizers. Both types of equalizers perform the same task in helping to smooth the peaks and dips in what you hear from your audio system. However, the two equalizer types deliver the same results in very different ways. Let’s take a deep look into parametric equalizers and explain how they work.

What Is a Car Audio Equalizer?

As we covered in a previous article, an equalizer is a device that allows your installer to focus on a specific frequency range and either increase or decrease the level relative to the rest of the music. Equalizers must be used with a real-time audio analyzer to correct for anomalies in the frequency response of an audio system. Everything from your smartphone and smart speaker on your bedside table to movie theaters and concert venues uses equalizers to improve an audio system’s frequency response.

What Is a Graphic Equalizer?

Before diving into the operation of a parametric equalizer, we should review how a graphic equalizer works. The number of bands included in a graphic equalizer indicates their suitability and capabilities. Each of these adjustments is called a band. Each band is assigned a specific frequency in a graphic equalizer (or EQ for short), and the number of bands defines the range of frequencies each covers. For example, if you have a 31-band graphic equalizer, each band will cover about 1/3 of an octave. Conversely, each band covers an entire octave if you have a 10-band graphic equalizer.

The technician can boost or cut these bands based on acoustic measurements made with a calibrated real-time audio analyzer. For example, if there is a 4-dB dip in frequency response at 1 kHz, the technician can boost the 1-kHz EQ band by 4 kHz. Graphic equalizers are very common in higher-end aftermarket car radios.

Parametric Equalizer
The Sony XAV-AX6000 and XAV-AX4000 multimedia receivers include 14-band graphic equalizers.

What Is a Parametric Equalizer?

Though the purpose is the same, parametric equalizers can be more flexible than their graphic cousins. In a parametric equalizer, your technician can select a specific center frequency and bandwidth for each equalizer band. For example, suppose a peak in a system’s frequency response is at 1.1 kHz. In that case, the technician can specify 1.1 kHz as the center frequency of the EQ and then apply whatever amount of attenuation is required to flatten that peak.

A parametric equalizer has a bandwidth adjustment labeled as Q. The concept of Q, or more specifically, Q-factor, is initially unintuitive. The Q-factor represents the ratio of the center frequency to the bandwidth the adjustment covers. A high-Q filter is very narrow, and the low-Q filter affects a broader band of frequencies.

How Is the Q-Factor Calculated?

The calculation to determine the Q-factor of an equalizer adjustment is relatively simple. That said, it’s not arithmetic we typically need to perform when calibrating an audio system. If you look at the image below, you can see the center frequency of the adjustment represented by the uppercase letter F. This would be something like 1.1 kHz, as mentioned in the previous paragraph. The following required information is the -3 dB bandwidth of the range over which the filter adjusts. Let’s use the example of the low-side to high-side -3 dB frequencies being 3,300 hertz apart. The lowercase letter f defines this bandwidth. To calculate the Q-factor, you would divide F by f, 1,100 ÷ 3,300, which equals 0.33. As you can imagine, it would take some measurement to determine the bandwidth of the -3 dB frequencies, so we never do the math to make adjustments.

Parametric Equalizer
A graphical representation of Q-factor calculation.

A higher Q filter might be required if the technician needs to address a very narrow spike or dip. Let’s say that only 1,100 hertz of bandwidth requires boosting or attenuating. Our equation now becomes 1,100 ÷ 1,100 for a value of 1.

Common Q-Factor Knowledge

There are a few pretty common Q-factor values. If the technician wants a parametric equalizer to act like a 1/3-octave graphic equalizer, then a Q-factor of 4.318 will work. If you don’t have many equalizer bands, common in several car audio signal processors, and they want each band to cover an entire octave, then a Q-factor of 1.414 is ideal. These are often the default settings in many systems, though they are rarely suitable for any particular system.

Parametric Equalizer
An example of the Audison bitDrive software showing a single EQ band at 1 kHz, with a boost of 6 dB with a Q-factor of 1.42.
Parametric Equalizer
The same digital signal processor software, now showing 6 dB of boost at 1 kHz with a Q-factor of 4.32.

The two images above show how a higher Q-factor affects a narrower range of frequencies. The image below is the ARC DNA software used with the Blackbird amplifier. It allows for Q-factors as low as 0.1 up to 20. The image below shows four equalizer bands, each set to add 10 dB of signal boost at a center frequency of 500 hertz. The white trace has a Q-factor of 10. The gray trace has a Q-factor of two. The green trace has a Q-factor of 0.5. Finally, the yellow trace has a Q-factor of 0.1. It’s unlikely you’d need the widest bandwidth adjustments, but they can come in handy on some processors that don’t have shelving filters.

Parametric Equalizer
An example of four bandwidth adjustments shown using the ARC DNA software used with the Blackbird DSP amplifier.
Parametric Equalizer
Each output channel on the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 has 31 bands of parametric equalization.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Parametric Equalizers

The most significant benefit of a parametric equalizer is that it can zero in on specific frequency response issues quite easily. As mentioned, if a peak or valley is at 900 hertz or 1,100 hertz, then a parametric EQ is a better tool than a graphic EQ band. Many technicians and amateur enthusiasts get hung up on over-equalizing audio systems. Understanding how to interpret measurements from an RTA is crucial to making an audio system sound accurate.

A drawback of many parametric equalizers is that they are often limited in the number of adjustment bands they offer. Some processors have eight, 10 or 15 bands of parametric equalization. This is typically adequate to adjust a single speaker in a fully active three-way system, but fewer than 10 bands might be somewhat limited when used in a two-way application. We’ve seen several digital signal processors with more than 30 bands of equalization with parametric modes. In short, those will have enough adjustability for any system configuration and likely enough to get an amateur into lots of trouble.

What Is a Paragraphic Equalizer?

Just when you think you have a handle on graphic and parametric equalizers, we’ll throw in a third option: the paragraphic equalizer. As you can imagine, this is a hybrid of the graphic and parametric types. A paragraphic equalizer typically allows you to adjust the center frequency of each equalization band but not the Q-factor. These aren’t very common in car audio applications.

Is A Parametric Equalizer Necessary?

The type of equalizer used to calibrate an audio system is much less important than the accuracy and relevance of the system’s frequency response measurement. A technician’s experience in understanding what the RTA shows. It’s not uncommon for someone to adjust a system to deliver what looks like a smooth response on the computer screen, only to have it sound like it still needs work in certain frequencies. Parametric equalizers are powerful tools and can be an ideal solution to calibrate any audio system, but as with any tool, the craftsman’s skill matters the most.

When it’s time to take your car audio system to the next level, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer and ask about adding a digital signal processor to your car audio system with an adequately powerful graphic or parametric equalizer. Make sure they have extensive experience in proper audio system design and calibration, which is the key to reproducing music with realism and accuracy.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Why Is a Car Audio Equalizer Important to Create Realistic Sound?

Car Audio Equalizer

The single most crucial upgrade a person can make to their car audio system is to incorporate a properly configured equalizer. Whether you have a radio and two speakers or a high-end four-way system with active crossovers, ensuring that the system’s frequency response is accurate remains the most important consideration concerning quality. Let’s examine how a car audio equalizer works and why they’re crucial.

What Is an Equalizer?

There are several ways to describe an equalizer. We’ll offer several definitions, as all do an excellent job of explaining their functionality. You can consider an equalizer to be a frequency-specific volume control. Unlike the main volume control, your installer would set this once rather than have it used frequently. Another description is that an equalizer is an audio filter that boosts or attenuates specific frequencies. Ultimately, an equalizer tool allows for the amplitude adjustment of particular frequencies in an audio signal.

Car Audio Equalizer
An example of an equalizer that has applied 6 dB of boost at 1 kHz.

In the image above, we see the response curve of an equalizer in a digital signal processor that has added 6 dB of boost at 1 kHz. Any audio signal that passes through this equalizer channel will have the frequencies at and around 1 kHz boosted by this amount.

Car Audio Equalizer
An example of an equalizer that has attenuated frequencies around 1 kHz by 6 dB.

This second image shows the equalizer set to cut or attenuate frequencies around 1 kHz by 6 dB.

An equalizer can cut or boost the amplitude of different frequencies by specific amounts. While seemingly simple, it’s a powerful and essential tool in creating great-sounding car audio systems.

Why Is a Car Audio Equalizer Important?

Imagine the perfect speaker. Let’s say it’s a 6.5-inch driver that delivers ruler-flat response from 80 hertz to 20 kHz. Magically, it has ideal directivity at most frequencies, producing even amounts of sound in every direction. It has distortion-reducing features like an aluminum shorting ring and copper T-yoke cap. It has a flat-wound voice coil for maximum efficiency. It also has a rigid cone that doesn’t resonate uncontrollably. The suspension design allows the speaker to move linearly through a wide excursion range, so it continues to sound good, even at higher volume levels. The engineers who designed this speaker would have spent significant time measuring its performance in an anechoic chamber to ensure accuracy.

Now, what happens when we put that speaker in the door of a car? It still functions the same, producing audio frequencies at the same amplitude with magically perfect dispersion. Would it sound great? Probably not. Why? Because the listening environment dramatically affects what we hear. This change in frequency response isn’t the speaker’s fault. Notably, a speaker should never be designed for a specific listening environment. Speakers should be as accurate and faithful to the source signal as possible.

Why does the environment affect what we hear? The answer is reflections and resonances. When we listen to a speaker in a car or truck, we hear the sound directly from that speaker. We also hear sounds that arrive a moment later that have bounced off the roof, windshield, side window, seats, floor, dash and center console. These reflections change our perception of the system’s sound reproduction. Depending on the distance from the speaker to the reflecting surface and from the surface to the listening position, the reflections might add emphasis at specific frequencies or reduce the amplitude at others.

Another issue is resonance. Because of the distances between certain surfaces, we can get additional peaks in the system response. For example, a distance of 5 feet between the left and right windows might cause a peak in the system response at 225 hertz and a smaller one at 450 hertz. If the distance from the roof to the floor is 3.5 feet, that might cause a resonance at 321 hertz. The materials on the surfaces affect how much resonance occurs. If your vehicle has a deep plush carpet and cloth roof, the resonance might not be as significant as if it had a vinyl floor and roof. The listening environment wreaks havoc with what we hear from our perfect speaker. The result is peaks and dips in the frequency response, and the system doesn’t sound natural.

How an Equalizer Improves Audio System Performance

Before we can adjust an equalizer, a technician must accurately measure what might need fixing. We use a real-time audio analyzer to make these measurements. A real-time analyzer is essentially a calibrated microphone and display that shows the frequency response of the measurement. Most car audio technicians use computer-based audio analyzers with a single microphone or a multi-microphone array.

Car Audio Equalizer
The Audison bit Tune is a popular audio analyzer with a five-mic measurement array.
Car Audio Equalizer
Room EQ Wizard is an audio analysis program that’s free to use.
Car Audio Equalizer
Smaart Suite from Rational Acoustics is the standard for RTA analysis and system calibration in live performances.

Audio analyzers need to be very accurate. If they show a dip at a specific frequency, we should be able to apply a measurable amount of boost to that frequency with an equalizer to produce a flat response curve. This requirement means the microphone must be calibrated accurately. A microphone used for music recording or voice communication likely isn’t ideal for audio measurements as it will impose its frequency response variations.

Car Audio Equalizer
High-end RTA microphones like the Earthworks M30 offer flat frequency response from 3 Hz to 30 kHz.

In the case of all audio analyzers, knowing how to interpret the data they offer is crucial to making audio system adjustments. Understanding measurements and knowing what to adjust in an equalizer takes extensive training to deliver great-sounding audio systems. With that said, the basic concept is that the RTA graph will show peaks and valleys in the acoustic response of an audio system. The technician can then cut (attenuate) peaks or boost dips to deliver a system with a smooth response.

Types of Car Audio Equalizers

There are two ways to discuss types of car audio equalizers. We can look at the different physical solutions or how the equalizers adjust signals. We will discuss the available solutions in this article and save the operational differences for another time.

The simplest of equalizers would be the bass and treble controls in a car radio. Turning either up or down affects a relatively wide range of frequencies, and these are better suited to changing the overall tonal balance of a car audio system than correcting response issues. Many late-model vehicles include bass, midrange and treble control adjustments in their infotainment systems.

Regarding system frequency response correction and calibration, you need fine control over different frequency ranges. For the context of this article, this will mean you need a lot of bands of equalization. A band is a single EQ adjustment that can boost or cut a narrow range of frequencies. Companies like AudioControl, Phoenix Gold and PPI had analog 30- or 31-band equalizers that were popular with autosound competitors years ago.

Car Audio Equalizer
The 30-band mono AudioControl EQT was a popular 1/3-octave equalizer. Image: Tokopedia user HG Audiophile

These days, digital signal processing has made equalization easy. From source units like the Sony XAV-9000ES and XAV-9500ES to stand-alone processors from companies like Audison, Rockford Fosgate and ARC Audio, access to the tools required to calibrate modern car audio systems is easy.

Car Audio Equalizer
The bit One HD Virtuoso from Audison is a powerful 13-channel digital signal processor.
Car Audio Equalizer
The Rockford Fosgate DSR1 is an eight-channel DSP with built-in Maestro vehicle integration hardware.
Car Audio Equalizer
The PS8 PRO from ARC Audio offers 37 bands of equalization for each of its eight output channels.

These processors use software on a computer or iPhone/iPad to allow the technician to calibrate your audio system to adjust the equalizer bands on each output channel. As mentioned, we aren’t going to get into the details of the types of equalizer modes (graphic or parametric) in this article.

Car Audio Equalizer
The Audison bit Drive software adjusts the digital signal processor in Audison’s Forza-Series DSP-equipped amplifiers.

How Do I Know My Car Audio System Needs Equalization?

While all this information is essential, knowing whether your car audio system requires equalization is equally important. Unless it’s a factory-installed system in a relatively new model vehicle, the answer is yes, it needs equalization. Why don’t those systems need equalization? The answer is simple – they’re already set up for the speakers that came with the vehicle. Even modest, unbranded systems often include equalization in the radio that helps to deliver smooth frequency response.

If you’ve ever heard someone say they upgraded their radio or speakers to an aftermarket unit, but the system doesn’t sound as good, this is why. The equalization would be removed if it were built into the factory-installed radio. It might still exist if the new radio were feeding a factory-installed amp. At the other end of the spectrum, new speakers likely have different frequency response curves than what came from the factory. Changing speakers essentially invalidates the equalization.

If you’re building a new system from scratch with a premium radio and great amplifiers, speakers and subwoofers, part of the system design should include a way to equalize the system. You could opt for a radio like the aforementioned Sony units with an equalizer on each channel. You could also use a stand-alone digital signal processor between the source unit and the amplifiers. Another option is to choose amplifiers that have built-in digital signal processing.

Car Audio Equalizer
The Sony XAV-9000ES and XAV-9500ES have dedicated equalizers for each output channel.

If you’re serious about optimizing your audio system, you’ll need an equalizer for each speaker. The corrections required for a woofer in the front door will differ significantly from that of a speaker in the rear door or on the parcel shelf. More importantly, the equalization will be very different on the left side of the vehicle compared to the right. Having a single EQ for the entire vehicle is better than nothing, but if you want rock-solid imaging and fantastic realism, you need equalization for each channel.

You need someone with experience to set up the EQ. As we mentioned earlier, knowing how to interpret the measurements from the RTA is crucial. Adding equalization that won’t positively affect the system’s performance is easy. There might be a peak or dip on the response graph of the RTA, but it might be something that can’t or shouldn’t be fixed with an EQ. Having a thorough understanding of the laws of physics and extensive experience are crucial to creating a system that sounds genuinely lifelike.

Upgrade Your Audio with a Car Audio Equalizer Today!

If you want to elevate the performance of your stereo system, then you need a properly calibrated car audio equalizer. Start by visiting some local specialty mobile enhancement retailers in your area. Audition their demo vehicles or work they’ve done for other clients. If those systems sound good, they can likely deliver similar results in your vehicles. Don’t be afraid to shop around. You may have to travel to another city to find a shop that can deliver what you want.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

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