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How Many Amplifier Channels Does My Car Audio System Need?

Amplifier Channels

If you’ve been paying attention to the car audio industry over the last decade, you know that the number of discrete channels available from quality amplifiers has increased steadily. Some better brands now have solutions with as many as 12 channels. So let’s consider why you might want more amplifier channels in your car audio system.

Car Audio Systems Using Amplifiers in Radios

The most straightforward car audio system would include a radio and a pair of speakers. This sound system would be adequate for letting you listen to the news or play your favorite music. Most radios include a small four-channel amplifier integrated circuit that can produce between 15 and 20 watts of power. With reasonably efficient speakers, that’s enough for many people. So, as a minimum, your car stereo system needs two channels to allow the system to reproduce a stereo audio signal and send independent information to the left and right speakers.

Amplifier Channels
The most straightforward car audio system would include a radio and a pair of speakers. The system has two channels of amplification built into the radio.

If you want the audio system to play a little louder, have a specialty car audio retailer add a second set of speakers to the rear amplifier channels built into the radio. Now, each speaker will receive 15 to 20 watts of power, and assuming the speakers are of the same efficiency, the system can play at least 6 dB louder.

Amplifier Channels
The second-most straightforward car audio system would include a radio and two pair of speakers. In this example, we show the four-channel amplifier in the radio driving the front and rear, left and right speakers.

When four channels of amplification are available, you can use the fader control to adjust the relative output levels of the front and rear speakers.

If you want a dramatic improvement in performance and output capability from a deck-powered audio system, we strongly suggest adding a subwoofer. Even a modest amplified subwoofer can make a significant difference to the perceived quality of your audio system. In addition, the dedicated subwoofer can reproduce low-frequency audio information at higher volumes.

Amplifier Channels
Adding a subwoofer to an audio system dramatically improves clarity and perceived performance.

Audio Systems with External Amplifiers

Let’s look at systems with external amplifiers. We’ll start with a basic two-channel amplifier. Most car audio amplifiers are capable of driving a 2-ohm load. The ability of an amplifier to drive lower impedances means your installer could wire two 4-ohm speakers in parallel to each channel without upsetting the amplifier. As such, you could use a two-channel amplifier to power four speakers with the two left speakers on one channel and the two right speakers on the other. Back in the ’80s and early ’90s, some car audio manufacturers suggested using 4-ohm speakers for the front and 8-ohm speakers for the rear with a two-channel amplifier. The goal was to reduce the power sent to the rear speakers to help improve the perception of the sound coming from the front of the vehicle. Remember, if you’re after the best sound quality, most amplifiers add distortion when driving lower impedances.

Amplifier Channels
A two-channel amplifier can drive one or two pairs of speakers to increase the maximum output of a car audio system.

If you want to control the relative level of the front and rear speakers in your car stereo system, you’ll need a four-channel amplifier. Assuming the radio has front and rear RCA preamp outputs, the fader control on the radio will adjust the relative volume of the front and rear speakers.

Amplifier Channels
A four-channel amplifier allows you to use the fader control to adjust the relative level of the front and rear speakers.

One popular audio system configuration uses a four-channel amplifier with two sets of speakers and a subwoofer. The front and rear speakers would be connected to one pair of channels, and the second pair of amplifier channels would be wired in a bridged configuration to provide more power to the subwoofer.

Amplifier Channels
This system uses a four-channel amplifier to drive the front and rear speakers from one pair of channels, with the second pair bridged to power a subwoofer.

If you want more system flexibility, try a five- or six-channel amplifier. The extra stereo channels will add the ability to adjust the relative volume level of the front and rear speakers while using a dedicated pair of channels in a bridged configuration or a high-power mono for a subwoofer.

Amplifier Channels
Using a five- or six-channel amplifier gives you complete control over the volume of each speaker in the system.

Actively Filtered Car Audio Systems

If you want the most control over each speaker in your car audio system, dedicating an amplifier channel to each one is the best way. The challenge here is that the amplifiers must have crossovers that will allow each speaker to receive only the range of frequencies for which it is designed. Some higher-end radios include three-way crossover modes with high-pass filters for coaxial drivers or tweeters on the dash, bandpass crossovers for midrange or midbass drivers in the doors and a low-pass filter for the subwoofer. Many five- and six-channel amplifiers also include crossovers with adjustable range crossovers that can handle bandpass filtering on a midrange driver and a high-pass crossover for a tweeter.

Amplifier Channels
Many amplifiers include flexible crossovers that allow a pair of channels to power tweeters and apply bandpass crossovers to midrange drivers.

The next step from the above system is to include a digital signal processor to handle the filtering, delays and channel-by-channel equalization. While radios like the Sony XAV-9500ES have all these features, very few (if any) radios on the market include channel-specific crossovers. In this case, you must include an external digital signal processor to handle the filtering, delays and equalization. If you want to use a mid and tweeter in the front and a subwoofer in the back, you will need a DSP with six outputs (three for the left and three for the right) and a five- or six-channel amplifier.

Amplifier Channels
Having a digital signal processor in an actively filtered car audio system allows your installer to fine-tune the output of each speaker in the system for fantastic realism.

If you don’t already have an amplifier, you might want to consider purchasing one with a built-in digital signal processor. These all-in-one processing and amplification solutions simplify the installation and reduce the interconnect cables required to feed signals around the system.

Amplifier Channels
Amplifiers with built-in digital signal processing are a great way to optimize the performance of every speaker in your car’s audio system.

The next step up takes two routes. First, if you have passengers in the rear of your vehicle or prefer to have the sound from your stereo wrap around you as you’d hear at a club or when listening to headphones, you might want to add rear speakers. You’ll need another pair of amplifier channels for the rear speakers. No name-brand car audio amplifier manufacturer (that we know of) offers a seven-channel amplifier. You’ll need to go with an eight-channel amp and use a pair of channels bridged to power a subwoofer.

Amplifier Channels
With eight channels of amplification, you can have a two-way front stage, rear speakers and a subwoofer, all from a single amp.

The alternative is to move up from the three-way system to a four-way design with tweeters, midrange drivers, midbass drivers and a subwoofer. The benefit of a four-way system is that the midrange drivers can be placed higher in the vehicle – in the dash, at the top of the doors or in custom pods on the A-pillars or sail panels. These higher midrange mounting locations can improve the perception of stage height. A three-way front stage also allows each speaker to operate in a frequency range where directivity becomes less of an issue so that the audio system will sound better from both front seats.

Amplifier Channels
An eight-channel DSP-equipped amplifier is perfect for a three-way front stage and subwoofer.

Many eight-channel amplifiers include RCA preamp outputs that can be used to power additional amplifiers. A popular option for those who enjoy listening to music at higher volume levels is to bridge two pairs of the eight channels to provide more power to the midbass drivers, then use an external high-power amplifier to drive the subwoofer.

If you wanted to add rear speakers to the above configuration, you’d need two more channels for 10.

We aren’t going to delve into the world of re-amplifying premium factory-installed audio systems like Bose Centerpoint and Harman Quantum Logic Immersion. Those can quickly require 12 or more channels of amplification to cover mid-level systems. For example, some of the Harman audio systems included in vehicles from Lexus have 23 speakers and 16 channels of amplification. Dealing with these systems involves complex elements that include active noise cancellation and volume-based response changes, as well as signal delays and all-pass filters.

One last thought: You don’t have to choose a single amplifier with the number of channels you want. For example, you could use a two-channel amp for a pair of front speakers and a monoblock amp for a subwoofer for three channels. A popular system configuration is a four-channel amp for front and rear speakers and a monoblock amp for a sub. Some elaborate systems use two four-channel amplifiers for the front speakers. One amp would run the left tweeter, the left midrange and the left midbass from a pair of bridged channels. The other four-channel amp would power the three right speakers. This configuration can improve stereo separation a bit but is complex and expensive.

There are many other ways to configure car audio systems, and each has different amplifier channel requirements and benefits. This article covers some of the most common to help you understand what the product specialist you’re working with might suggest. Before shopping, think about how you like to listen to your music and how loudly. Provide that information to the team at the specialty mobile enhancement retailer you’re working with, and they can quickly narrow down the number of amplifier channels you’ll need.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Marine Radio Remote Control Options

Radio Remote

One of the most gratifying features of modern marine radios is the ability to upgrade them with various remote control options. Many conventional car radios are compatible with steering wheel audio button interfaces or an infrared remote. Marine radios take this to an entirely different level with options for remotes that include color displays and even integration with chart plotters and multifunction displays. Let’s look at some specific options for marine radio remotes.

Marine Remote Requirements

If you’re buying a new radio or want to add a remote to an existing system, the first thing you’ll want to check is that the remote is designed specifically for marine applications. They should be completely water-resistant, with at least an IPX5 water-intrusion rating.

Radio Remote
Marine radio remotes should be at least IPX5-rated to ensure that they will be watertight. Image Credit: EMC Technologies Group

The remotes should be constructed with UV-resistant materials so the plastics don’t fade, chalk, crack or discolor after prolonged exposure to the elements. In addition, testing standards such as ASTM D4329, ASTM G154 and ASTM G155 confirm that the manufacturer has tested their products under extreme UV conditions to ensure that they will function reliably and continue to look great.

Radio Remote
Companies offering marine remotes will use test chambers to measure the consistency of products under harsh UVA-340 and UVB-313 exposure. Image Credit: Xi’an LIB Environmental Simulation Industry

Finally, if you use your boat on the ocean, a saltwater lake or a river, the remote should resist damage from these conditions. Again, look for ASTM D5894, ASTM B117, ASTM G85, ISO 9227 or JIS Z 2371 testing to ensure that nothing will corrode prematurely.

Radio Remote
Remotes should pass salt spray/fog testing to withstand high-saline conditions. Image Credit: Materials Technology Ltd.

One of the most overlooked requirements for marine electronics is that the devices meet the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) C-1500 or SAE-J1171 Ignition Protection standard for marine products. In short, this testing confirms that, under regular operation, the device in question will not ignite an air/fuel mixture and cause an explosion. This testing is more specifically intended for fuses, fuse blocks, circuit breakers, motors and switches used in engine compartments in the presence of fuel storage. But radios, remotes, lighting controllers and amplifiers should also be ignition-protected devices. The last thing you want is for your boat to explode when you try to turn on your radio.

Radio Remote
Ignition-protection testing ensures that electrical and electronic devices won’t cause a flammable air/fuel mixture to explode when operated. Image credit: YIS Marine

Basic Marine Radio Wired Remotes

Since their inception almost a quarter-century ago, most marine radios have included options for often elaborate wired remote controls. For example, if you had a boat with the radio mounted near the helm or at a navigation station, your installer could add a secondary control on the swim platform, in the cabin or up on a flybridge. In addition, most marine radios use wired connections to these remotes for consistency and reliability. While this can increase the time required to add these remotes to an existing audio system, it helps ensure reliability and seamless integration.

The most basic wired remotes have dedicated buttons for volume adjustment, track and preset selection, source selection and the ability to turn the radio on and off.

Radio Remote
The Sony RM-X11M remote mounts in a 2-inch opening and works with source units like the DSX-M80 and MEX-M72.
Radio Remote
The HMC-U1 from Hertz is a compact remote that works with the HMR 20, HMR 10 D and HMR 10 source units and mounts in a 1.77-inch opening.

Marine Remotes with Displays

As an upgrade, many marine radio remotes include an LCD screen that displays station, track or volume information. Some solutions go as far as including color displays that mimic the information on the radio with album art display from digital media files. In addition, these remotes are often compatible with hide-away radio options with no built-in controls or displays.

Radio Remote
Rockford Fosgate’s PMX-1R wired remote is compatible with their full line of PMX-Series marine source units.
Radio Remote
The HMC D1 from Hertz is a display remote that’s designed as an option for the HMR 50 marine radio.

NMEA 2000 CAN BUS Remote Options

Another important remote option for marine radios is the ability to connect to a multifunction display or chartplotter in the helm or a nav station. Companies like Garmin, Simrad and Raymarine include options on these displays to control a hide-away radio system or interface with a more conventional marine radio. Access to source selection, volume control, track and station selection are available. Before installing a solution, it’s crucial to check that both the radio interface and the multifunction display (MFD) are compatible. Not all radio brands are compatible with all MFD manufacturers, and some have proprietary protocols outside the NMEA 2000 data structure.

Radio Remote
The PMX-CAN interface from Rockford Fosgate allows entertainment system integration with many Garmin and Raymarine multifunction displays.

Remote Upgrade Considerations

Here are a few things you’ll need to keep in mind as you and the product specialist you’re working with design the entertainment system for your boat. First, for most brands, there’s a limit to the number of remotes that can be connected to a radio. Typically, they can’t support more than three, but it’s worth checking the documentation of the model of radio you have in mind.

If you use more than one remote with a radio, you’ll likely need a Y-cable for each additional remote. In most cases, remote cables are designed specifically for each radio manufacturer, so your installer isn’t likely going to be able to mix and match parts. The same goes for remotes – you can’t use a Rockford Fosgate remote with a Hertz Marine source unit.

Additionally, remotes often have maximum cable length limits, with most being limited to 100 feet. If you’re planning multiple remotes with long cables, suggest that your installer mock up the system on a test bench before they start cutting holes and running cables.

Radio Remote
If you want your installer to add multiple remotes to a radio, you’ll have to purchase a Y-cable.

Upgrade Your Marine Audio System with a Remote Control

Being able to control the stereo system in your boat from the swim platform, the helm or the cabin will ensure that you can always listen to your favorite music while on the water. Drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today to inquire about the remote control options available for your boat.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Marine Audio

Modern Vehicle Electronics and Water Damage

Water Damage

Water and road salt are known to wreak havoc on the body and underpinnings of our cars and trucks in the winter. Even living near the ocean, where salt levels are high, can accelerate the rusting process. In this article, with some help from the automotive electronic experts at Motron Automotive Electronics in London, Ontario, we’ll talk about how water infiltration can cause serious problems with even relatively new vehicles. We’ll also discuss a few options for protecting the electronics in your vehicle to help prevent water damage.

Electronics and Water Damage

Water and road salt are a nasty combination. The mixture seeps into the seams between body panels to cause rust in the corners of doors, around wheel wells and near fuel filler doors. If you’re in and out of your vehicle often in the winter, your boots will track this nasty mixture into the vehicle’s interior, where it can damage the floor.

With newer vehicles, automakers are often challenged when determining where to mount computers, control modules and entertainment system components. These parts often end up under the seats of a car, where they can come in direct contact with this evil and destructive salt water. The result is damage to costly components, especially audio system amplifiers. Likewise, small leaks around the roof or trunk of a convertible can allow water to drip down onto expensive and potentially hard-to-find electronics.

Water Damage
The audio system amplifier from a 2006 BMW 650i convertible.

A quick look at the photo of this multi-channel amplifier and tuner module shows severe damage to the power supply and amplifier integrated circuits in this BMW 650i.

Water Damage
A small leak soaked the carpet on the floor of this Mercedes-Benz GL350.
Water Damage
The SiriusXM satellite radio tuner module was damaged.

The owner of this Mercedes-Benz GL350 SUV shown above reported that the SiriusXM satellite radio tuner had stopped working. Water had soaked the carpet and seeped into the electrical connectors. A pin broke off during removal because it had severely corroded.

Water Damage
Volkswagen vehicles are notorious for amplifier failures because of water damage.

Lee from Motron tells us that vehicles like the VW Tiguan, Jetta, Golf and Passat frequently experience amplifier damage because the units are mounted to the floor near the front of the driver’s seat. Water from melted snow can wreak havoc in a few years. This photo above is from a 2015 Tiguan. Depending on the vehicle trim level, replacing these amplifiers can cost between $750 and $900. That doesn’t include labor to perform the installation and check the condition of the electrical connectors and system fuses.

Water Damage
Signs of water infiltration into the passenger-side floor of a Porsche Boxster.
Water Damage
A water-damaged amplifier from a 2013 Porsche Boxster S.

This 2013 Porsche Boxster had what would be deemed a small water leak. The water collected on the floor under the passenger seat, where it seeped into the audio system amplifier and caused corrosion. Though it might be possible to replace these tiny surface-mount transistors, no vehicle manufacturer provides schematics for amplifiers at the component level. Likewise, the traces on the circuit boards are often damaged by water infiltration. A replacement amplifier could cost between $300 and $500, depending on the trim level of a vehicle like this.

Water Damage
Remnants of an amplifier ground wire in the trunk of a Kia sedan.

The image above shows what used to be a ground connection for an aftermarket amplifier that was installed in a Kia sedan. The white “dust” is corrosion from the wire that had disintegrated. The shop that installed this amp used wire that contained a lot of aluminum rather than an all-copper conductor.

Water Damage
The factory-installed woofer from under the seat of a BMW 5-Series sedan.

We should mention that many BMW and Mini vehicles have audio systems that include an 8-inch woofer under one or both front seats. While this might be a convenient location for producing bass in the front of the vehicle, it leaves them susceptible to water damage — the woofer in this 2013 5-series needed to be replaced for precisely this reason.

How To Protect the Electronics in Your Vehicle

Most of us drive our cars and trucks and only start paying attention when something breaks. Few of us have the time or patience to perform regular inspections to ensure that everything is operating correctly. Unfortunately, that’s the only way to catch these issues. A quarterly inspection of the carpet is a good starting point. Lift the floor mats to make sure everything is dry. Check the cargo area in the back to ensure that no water gets into the spare tire area or the corners of the trunk. Look for traces of water having been there and get things resolved before something expensive is damaged.

For those living in the northern states, Alaska or pretty much anywhere in Canada, consider investing in floor mats that prevent water from snowy shoes and boots from getting into the carpet. Companies like WeatherTech, Husky Liner, U-Guard, TuxMat and Advent have vehicle-specific products that collect water, slush and mud. These mats protect the electronics in your vehicle and help keep the carpet looking new — and improve the resale value when it’s time for a trade-in.

Water Damage
The X-Act Contour mats from Husky Liners include ribs that help keep your feet out of the water while protecting your vehicle from damage.
Water Damage
Advent recently began offering vehicle-specific All Weather Floor Mats for popular models of cars and trucks.
Water Damage
The WeatherTech FloorLiner series is one of the most popular options for complete protection from water damage.

As with any accessory purchase for your vehicle, there are some questions to ask about these floor mats. What is their warranty? What does the warranty cover? Are they soft and flexible or rigid? How well do they fit the vehicle? Are there any openings that might cause leaks? How well does the color match the vehicle interior? It can cost a bit to outfit both the front and rear seating area, so make sure what you’re buying is good quality.

Your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer should be able to answer the above questions for you and help you get a set of mats that perform well and look great. If you’ve waited too long or haven’t noticed a water leak, these same shops might be able to help restore your audio system with an aftermarket amplifier or radio for significantly less than an exact replacement component from the dealership.
This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Car Audio

Choose an Expert for Your Remote Car Starter Installation

Starter Installation

We can’t count the number of times we’ve heard about someone calling a mobile enhancement retailer to get a price on a remote starter. This certainly seems like the logical first step. What most consumers don’t understand is that the performance and reliability of a remote starter system have as much to do with how the components are integrated into the vehicle as the hardware that you choose. Let’s talk about why it’s crucial to have an expert install your remote car starter.

Remote Car Starter Connections

If you have a typical vehicle from the early to mid-2000s, a remote starter system will need to be wired into the high-current wiring connected to your ignition switch. These wire connections include ignition, accessory, ground and start wires. The starter system will also need to control door locking and unlocking, connections to monitor the door pins, and at the very least, a wire to a tilt switch or hood pin in the front of the car. Newer vehicles require that the starter talks to the computers in your vehicle on the CAN data network, so connections to the CAN Hi and CAN Lo wires are also necessary. If any one of these connections isn’t both electrically robust and mechanically secure, it can affect the reliability of the starter system. Worse, in some cases, a poorly executed connection may negatively affect the reliability of your vehicle.

How these connections are executed is the focus of much debate. Twist-and-tape, soldering, crimp caps, butt connectors, T-taps and 3M Scotchlok connectors are some of the most popular options used to connect a wire from your starter system to your vehicle’s wire harness. All can work flawlessly, but when done incorrectly, all can cause problems.

A Remote Car Starter Purchase Analogy

If you wanted to buy a painting for the front hall or dining room in your house, would you randomly call art stores and ask them what their price was on a “piece of art”? With almost guaranteed certainty, whoever answered your call would invite you to visit their store and have a look at the artwork they have in stock.

Buying upgrades for your vehicle is no different. To get the right solution, you’ll need to talk with the retailer’s product specialist about where you park your vehicle at home or work so they can provide you with a remote solution that offers enough range. They will also need to confirm what hardware is required to integrate the starter system into the vehicle, so the year, make, model and trim level need to be checked. Cross-referencing the VIN is also required in some vehicles, where changes were made mid-year.

Most importantly, you’ll want to understand how the shop will take care of your vehicle while it’s in their possession. Do they use seat, steering wheel and fender covers? Do they put the vehicle battery on a charger while it’s in the bay? Most importantly, how do they secure hardware and make electrical connections to the vehicle? Will a module hang down from the dash with wires poking out everywhere, or will the installation look and perform like something that came with the vehicle from the factory? We can assure you that a properly installed high-quality remote car starter won’t come with the least expensive price in town. With that said, a Rembrandt or Van Gogh painting will fetch a pretty penny.

Examples of Poor Remote Starter Installations

The examples you see below clearly indicate that having an amateur upgrade your vehicle is a fool’s errand. Most examples are from retail shops that claim to be professionals. We know that many of these businesses are, at best, hobbyists installing remote starters for a living. That doesn’t make them professionals or experts.

Starter Installation
Stephen Flemming from Seductive Sounds in Peterborough, Ontario, shared this photo of a remote starter installation in a Chevy 1500. There should never be a “bundle of wires” clumped up under your vehicle’s dash after an installation has been completed.
Starter Installation
Stacey Rea from Mike’s Car Toys in Chatham, Ontario, shared this photo of a questionable electrical connection a do-it-yourselfer made in the dash of his vehicle. We’d love to know how long this would have lasted had it not been fixed.
Starter Installation
Cory Vaillancourt from DC Car Audio in Sarnia, Ontario, shared a poorly executed remote car starter installation in this photo. The vehicle was brought to him because it didn’t always start using the original key.
Starter Installation
After completely removing the existing remote starter shown above, Cory installed a new Compustar system and ensured that all the wiring was secure, organized and safe.
Starter Installation
Just as you would ask for references before hiring someone to do construction on your home, you should research the work performed by the shop you have in mind for your remote starter upgrade. You should never see any wiring or modules hanging down from under the dash of a vehicle. This poor approach to component integration presents a significant safety hazard.

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a video is worth 10 million. Our friends at Sweet Sounds in Mankato, Minnesota, made a video to show just how wrong things can go when you choose the wrong shop.

Starter Installation
Jason Henriksen from Certified Autosound in Abbotsford, British Columbia, provided a set of before and after pictures of a remote starter installation in a Toyota Yaris. A mess of wires concealed by most of a roll of electrical tape doesn’t constitute an expert installation.
Starter Installation
After removing the starter, Jason prepared a Compustar remote start system for integration into the vehicle. Expert shops will determine which wires are needed for an installation, then bundle the harnessing with cloth tape, so nothing buzzes or rattles as the vehicle travels down the road.

Do Your Research and Reap the Rewards

If you have the urge to call a local mobile enhancement retailer to get a price on a car starter, stop. You aren’t doing yourself or your vehicle any justice by shopping based on price. You don’t know what remote you’ll get or have any inkling of how the system will be integrated into your car or truck. Take a drive and visit some shops. Ask to see examples of their work. Ask why they choose the products they offer. Invest the time to select the best, and you won’t have to deal with headaches.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Remote Car Starters

What Is a Car Audio Stiffening Capacitor?

Stiffening Capacitor

Since the 1980s, car audio enthusiasts have been using large-value capacitors to improve the performance of their car audio systems. Aside from people believing that distortion damages speakers, few topics are as misunderstood as the benefit of adding a high-quality capacitor to your car stereo. So, let’s take a look at what a capacitor is, how it works and how it can be of benefit to a high-power car audio system.

What Is a Capacitor?

A capacitor is similar to a battery in that it stores energy between plates. Unlike a battery, the charge is stored directly as a difference in voltage (called an electrostatic field) and doesn’t require a chemical reaction to release energy. As such, capacitors can release large amounts of energy very quickly, whereas a battery releases energy at a slower rate. Another way to look at the difference between the two is that a battery is intended to be a source of energy, whereas a capacitor is used to store energy for a short period of time. Access to large amounts of energy storage is crucial to the performance of your car’s audio system.

Stiffening Capacitor
Though smaller, this electrolytic capacitor is constructed the same way as those used to bolster the power fed to your amplifier.

In a capacitor, two or more plates are separated by a dielectric known as an insulator. This insulator prevents the metal plates from touching each other and draining the stored energy. When a voltage is applied to a capacitor, current will flow into the device until the potential of the electric plates matches the source voltage. If you connect a capacitor to a car battery, it will charge (very quickly) to the same voltage as the battery. If you disconnect the cap from the power source and connect it to a load, it will drain equally quickly.

Stiffening Capacitor
Capacitors are very simple. They have two thin layers of metal separated by a dielectric-impregnated paper.

The Capacitor Analogy

If you are into high-performance vehicles, then you may have heard of a small fuel storage canister called a swirl pot or surge tank. These tall, skinny tanks are added after the feed from the main fuel tank to act as a reserve for those instances when a vehicle is accelerating, braking or cornering such that the fuel in the main tank may slosh away from the pickup. Rather than starving and potentially damaging the engine, the fuel injectors or carburetor are fed from the fuel stored in this small reserve tank. The engine doesn’t know or care where the fuel is coming from so long as it has what it needs to keep running.

Stiffening Capacitor
A racing vehicle may have a surge tank added to ensure fuel is always available to feed the engine. Image Credit: RnD Motorsport Ltd.

A capacitor in an electrical system works the same way. If a capacitor is installed across a load like an LED, it will provide current to the load when the supply voltage is removed until its stored energy has been depleted.

In most direct current electrical applications, capacitors are used as filtering devices to reduce the voltage peaks and dips in an electrical circuit. If you know how a DC power supply works, capacitors are a crucial component in converting energy pulses in a relatively smooth waveform.

Stiffening Capacitor
Capacitors are used in DC power supplies like those in a desktop computer to ensure smooth output voltage. Image Credit: Anandtech.com

Capacitors in Car Audio Applications

If you’ve ever looked inside a car audio amplifier, you’ll see two banks of capacitors. There is a small group of capacitors on the power input to the amplifier and a second set on the output of the switching power supply, also referred to as being on the “rails.” These capacitors are there for two reasons. They smooth the voltage ripples that are caused by the power supply switching devices turning on and off quickly. Secondly, they store energy. Power supplies, especially the switching style used in audio amplifiers, take a moment to react to sudden demands for current. During that time, without having capacitors present in the circuit, the rail voltage level would drop. The presence of the capacitors helps supply energy to the output stage for these sudden and dynamic bursts of energy.

Stiffening Capacitor
Car audio amplifiers like this ARC Audio ARC 1000.4 have banks of capacitors to store energy and smooth voltage ripples from the switching power supply.

If we look at how most amplifiers work at lower load impedances, it is the maximum current delivery capacity of the power supply that limits power. At 4 ohms, when pushed to their limit, amplifier output power is usually limited by the rail voltage. When we need twice as much current to drive a 2-ohm load, the power supply typically can’t deliver and the rail voltage drops. This is why many modern amplifiers don’t double their maximum power when the load impedance is halved. Capacitors don’t help in constant current draw conditions.

Benefits of Stiffening Capacitors

Think about everything we’ve stated. If you’re building a car audio system designed to play music at high volume levels, the current drawn by the amplifiers will vary dramatically. Capacitors are a perfect way to help fill in voltage drops that might occur when a battery or alternator can’t deliver enough current or when wiring and connections waste energy. For dynamic loads, capacitors can provide an audible improvement to your audio system.

The benefit of adding a capacitor is going to depend on the amount of power your electrical system can supply, how loudly you listen to the audio system and the efficiency of your amplifiers. If you listen at moderate volume levels, the system might only draw 20 or 30 amps of current. The stock electrical system in most vehicles can keep up without much fuss. If you listen really loud, you might draw 50 to 100 amps of current during the most dynamic parts of a song. In these applications, a capacitor will help maintain the voltage available to your amplifiers. The difference in performance between having a capacitor in a system or not is typically most audible in loosely or unregulated amplifiers powering midrange and high-frequency drivers. We can hear the clipping distortion from these amplifiers much easier than from a subwoofer system.

If your car audio system is designed to play test tones, as you’d find at SPL (Sound Pressure Level) competitions, capacitors are of little value. They might reduce some regulation issues from a high-current alternator and help with the initial demand for energy when you burp the system. After 100 milliseconds or so, they do nothing of significance to make an audio system louder over long periods of time.

If you’re looking for the best possible performance from a high-power car audio system, drop by a local mobile enhancement retailer and ask them about adding a high-quality stiffening cap to your sound system.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Car Audio

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