Many of the car stereo shops in the Northern US and Canada shift focus to installing remote car starters in the late fall. If you are shopping for a remote starter, you may be asked by the Product Specialist if you have two keys to the vehicle. Further, in a few applications, you may need to sacrifice a key to the vehicle for them to make the starter work. Let’s discuss why these two instances occur.

Two Keys Needed for Programming

Most automobile manufacturers include some form of anti-theft solution in their vehicles. These systems typically use a car key or key fob with a built-in security chip. When you try to start the car, the security system reads a code from the chip and compares it to what was programmed during manufacturing. If the codes match, the vehicle will start. If not, you’ll see a flashing security icon on the dash.

These chipped or encoded keys make stealing a new vehicle much harder. A thief could break the steering wheel lock and bypass the ignition wiring, but the vehicle still wouldn’t start.

Remote Car Starter Installation

You’ve heard the term bypass or interface when shopping for a remote car starter. The latter description isn’t great terminology, as these modules don’t bypass any of the security features in the vehicle. Instead, they are programmed as additional keys that are authorized to start the vehicle. It’s important to understand that your car or truck is just as safe once a remote car starter has been installed as it was before.

To program these interfaces to your vehicle, the technician must have two original keys. In an oversimplification of the process, they present each of the original keys to the vehicle when it is in programming mode and then teach the security system a code from the remote car starter interface module. For example, Ford vehicles from 2011 through 2014 require two keys.

Interface Programming Issues

One issue that often arises, particularly with used vehicles, is that while the owner might have two keys, one might be a clone of the other. This occurs when a key is lost and replaced by cloning the remaining unit. From a vehicle security perspective, either key will work, but the security system in the car or truck sees it as the same key.

The technician can’t access key programming mode for remote car starter installation because the process requires two keys, each with different codes. The only solution is to purchase a new key from the dealer and have it programmed into the vehicle. Unfortunately, this is expensive and typically costs more than $250.

If you are buying a used vehicle, ask specifically if the keys are original or if one is a clone of the other.

Giving Up a Key

Another scenario with remote car starters requires two keys. In the case of European vehicles like BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Audi, and Volkswagen, there isn’t a simple way to program another key to the factory-installed security system. In these cases, you need to sacrifice one of the keys provided with the vehicle to the remote starter system.

The technician will install the key into a special module and hide it in the dash. The security code from the key is presented to the factory security system when the aftermarket remote car starter is activated. The technician working on your car must ensure that the module’s location is far away from the key cylinder to avoid permanently bypassing the security function.

Pick Who Installs Your Remote Starter Carefully

While installing a remote car starter on most cars or trucks is relatively simple for a trained technician, the factory-installed anti-theft systems on newer vehicles can present a challenge. Don’t be shocked if you are asked if you have two original keys to your car, truck, or SUV.

We can’t overemphasize the importance of choosing a professional to work on your vehicle. Shopping on price alone and not considering experience and reputation can lead to problems. Look carefully at the reviews for the shop you are considering. Further, please look at the information they present on their website. It’s often easy to pick out who the true professionals in your area are.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Talking about the performance of audio equipment without objective measurements is like describing the taste of food without eating it. Maybe that’s a bit over the top, but the concept is accurate. You’ll hear many folks into high-end audio describe listening experiences that are sweet or emotional. However, those adjectives do very little to describe the physical characteristics of the performance.

Where in the world are we going with this? A combination of several listening tests and lab measurements got us thinking about the Hi-Res Audio product certification. We’ve tested many source units, amplifiers, signal processors, and Bluetooth interfaces that bear this accreditation. What does Hi-Res Audio certification mean? Further, does it mean a product will sound great?

High-Frequency Audio Reproduction

The first part of the certification attempts to correlate extended high-frequency performance with audio resolution. The standard requires amplifiers, signal processors, audio interfaces, source units, speakers, earphones, and microphones to record or reproduce audio frequencies up to 40 kHz.

The inference is that extended frequency response somehow correlates to resolution. In reality, bit depth, in theory, has more to do with resolution than high-frequency performance.

Ask anyone over 30 if they can hear audio frequencies above about 16 kHz, and most will tell you no. Those who think they can ought to have a formal listening test performed. We believe they will be surprised. Most adults we know can’t hear much over 14 kHz.

The argument for capturing audio frequencies above 22.05 kHz (the upper limit of a compact disc) is that harmonics present in the audio change the audible frequency region. While possible, those harmonics will also be present in the recording at audible frequencies. Reproducing them offers no benefit if they can’t be heard. Bats, dogs, cats, rats, mice, owls, and reptiles might appreciate the extra effort and storage bandwidth, but humans won’t.

Benefits of High-Resolution Audio Recording

The most significant benefit of recording higher-frequency content is the overall quality of the recording equipment. A recording studio might have a Universal Audio Apollo audio interface capable of sampling analog audio at 192 kHz with 24 bits of depth. However, those details alone don’t describe the true performance capabilities of the device. The Apollo X8 boasts 130 dB of dynamic range and a THD+N specification of -127 dB. The latter is equivalent to better than 0.0000446% Total Harmonic Distortion and Noise. To put it subtly, that’s ludicrously impressive.

What does this mean for the recording? The recording only captures the audio signal from the microphone at the interface, as the harmonic content added to the signal is imperceptibly low. An order of magnitude worse performance would still be imperceptible. You will get an incredibly clear recording when the engineer mixes dozens of tracks at this quality level.

Actual Bit Depth Comparison

The image below, and dozens like it, are misused in hundreds of applications to infer different quality levels based on bit depth.

The second part of the Hi-Res Audio criteria refers to handling audio files with 24 bits of depth. A common misconception about bit depth is that it also correlates with resolution. In reality, it doesn’t. The benefit of additional bit depth is reducing the noise captured in an audio signal.

Here’s a very real-world example. The image below shows the spectral content of a 1 kHz tone recorded at -80 dB FS, then saved as a 192 kHz, 24-bit file in red. The yellow trace is the same test tone but is saved as a 16-bit file.

When we open the file and check the spectral content, we see that a lot of noise has been added to the 16-bit track. Yes, the information is at a very low level of -98.13 dB for the 16-bit file. Crucially, it’s something that wasn’t in the original recording.

When a music producer creates a modern rock or pop song, they might combine 50 to 80 different tracks or samples. Let’s assume it’s only 60 tracks with 16 bits of depth. After typing a really long equation into Microsoft Excel, we get a noise floor of -90 dB FS. With playback levels of 100 dB SPL, which is easily possible from even modestly robust audio systems, the noise in the recording would be audible during quiet passages.

A 24-bit audio file has a noise floor of around -160 dB FS. I won’t bother doing the math, as no source units or amplifiers perform anywhere near that level. Okay, I lied. That’s about -152 dB of noise with 60 tracks combined. Like I said, it’s not audible.

Sound Quality

Unfortunately, for the Hi-Res Audio designation, the most easily perceptible degradation in audio quality is associated with distortion. Harmonic distortion is far more prominent than noise or high-frequency extension. As we’ve explained repeatedly, distortion is the addition of unwanted harmonic content due to nonlinearities in a speaker, amplifier, signal processor, or source unit.

The Japan Audio Society ignores this significant factor in its Hi-Res Audio certification. Their exact statement regarding audio quality is based on a “hearing evaluation” that is “implemented according to each company’s regulations.” Given that few products publish distortion specifications, it’s concerning that a label intended to designate a product as high quality leaves out this critical consideration.

Hi-Res Audio Wireless

What got us all riled up about the Hi-Res Audio designation? It was a culmination of several listening tests of Hi-Res Audio Wireless products. While the efforts put into optimizing wireless audio transmission over Bluetooth are commendable, the degradation the process causes is significant.

Based on our hands-on experience, playing a Hi-Res Audio Wireless format like LDAC or aptX on a premium-quality source unit degrades the performance to well below what you’d hear with a regular run-of-the-mill solution. Nevertheless, we understand the concept and goal – the execution fails miserably.

If you think for a moment that Bluetooth “sounds awesome,” then it’s time to play some music directly from a USB memory stick. The same goes for wireless connections used in Apple CarPlay and Android Audio. Switch to hi-res tracks you’ve purchased and stored on a USB memory stick. If your system can deliver, the difference will blow your mind! If you don’t hear a difference, it’s time for an upgrade.

Hi-Res Audio Isn’t Necessarily High-Fidelity Audio

We’ve been incredibly fortunate to have the opportunity to measure and audition audio solutions from all the top brands in the car audio industry. Indeed, many solutions sound magnificent. Unfortunately, many make quality and clarity claims that the hardware can’t substantiate. Some of these products bear the Hi-Res Audio logo.

When it’s time to upgrade your car audio system, drop by a few local specialty mobile enhancement retailers and audition the solutions they offer. If you’ve done some research and listened to the same music in the demo vehicles and on the display boards, picking out what sounds terrific is easy.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

A while back, we examined the difference in sound quality between wired and wireless Apple CarPlay. Now that many Android-based smartphones have access to additional audio streaming codecs like LDAC and aptX, it’s time to check out how they perform in terms of signal accuracy and frequency response. We’ll use the Sony XAV-9000ES digital media receiver we tested in May 2024 for the test. Let’s see what happens!

The Test Criteria

The most important consideration in determining sound quality is frequency response. To evaluate this, we’ll conduct two tests. First, we’ll play a five-minute-long white noise track from an Android smartphone while it’s connected to the Sony radio’s USB port. We’ll use the averaging capabilities of our QuantAsylum QA403 to analyze the result. We are looking for as flat a response as possible here.

Next, we’ll connect the phone to the radio wirelessly and repeat the measurement. The frequency response results for an iPhone were similar over either connection.

The second test is to evaluate signal quality. We’ll play a 0dB 1kHz test tone for this test in both wired and wireless configurations. We’ll examine the harmonic content to evaluate how each scenario performs regarding purity. Perfect performance would mean that no additional harmonic information is added to the 1 kHz tone. In the case of the iPhone, the wireless connection couldn’t hold a candle to having the device hardwired to the source unit.

For reference, we’ll include measurements of the white noise and 1kHz test tone tracks played back from a USB memory stick. With an Apple iPhone as the source option, playing your music from a USB memory stick was hands down the best choice.

Frequency Response Testing

We should have mentioned that we are using a Samsung S9 running Android 10 for the testing. Yep, it’s a bit old, but it has LDAC. Should we stumble on a more recent model, we’ll repeat the testing and update.

Let’s dive right into the frequency response results, shall we? First, let’s look at the performance when using a wired connection to the smartphone.

Up first, we have the analysis of the white noise track played back from a USB memory stick. We’ve zoomed in so you can see if there is any roll-off.

Overall, the response looks just as we expected—flat out from 10 Hz to 96 kHz. Now, let’s switch to a wired connection while using Android Auto and see if that affects anything.

It’s clear that the audio signal starts to roll off at about 14 kHz, and it appears to be about 20 dB down by 22 kHz. There’s no audio information above 22 kHz, so the signal is not considered hi-res. Now, let’s switch to a wireless connection and measure the white noise track again.

In this test of the Sony radio and Samsung S9 phone, we can see that nothing above approximately 17 kHz is passed from the radio. We’d really like to try a new phone, though, to confidently assert that the wireless connection is this bad in all cases.

Signal Purity

The next test is to evaluate how the different playback options affect signal purity. In a perfect world, no additional audio content would be added to the test tone. However, every audio device adds some amount of harmonic content. The less added, the more precise and accurate the system will sound, assuming the frequency response remains unaltered.

First, we have the distortion performance when playing our test tone from a USB memory stick.

Overall, the Sony performed well, with a THD+N specification of 0.00581% and an output right around one volt. This would be considered excellent performance. Now, let’s see what happens when we play the same track from the Samsung phone using a wired Android Auto connection.

There’s a little more low-level noise below the 1 kHz tone, but overall, the performance is quite similar. Measured THD+N came in at a still respectable 0.01029%. Finally, let’s try this with a wireless connection.

Just as we saw when using an iPhone, the wireless connection adds a lot of low-level noise. While the graph looks much worse, the 3 kHz, -91 dBV spike remains the primary factor in determining total harmonic distortion. As such, the measured performance only decreases slightly to 0.01139%. This is still considered to be a good distortion number.

Conclusions on Wired Versus Wireless Android Auto Sound Quality

From the standpoint of our 1 kHz signal purity test, it remains clear that a USB connection outperforms wired or wireless connections. This is especially true regarding frequency response. The Android Auto connections would sound duller and less detailed than playing music from a USB memory stick.

If you’re after the best sound quality possible from a premium multimedia receiver, then put your music collection on a USB memory stick and connect that to your radio. If your radio doesn’t support the latest high-resolution audio formats, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer to see what they have to offer to upgrade the clarity of your mobile audio system.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Many professionals in the car audio industry started their careers as novices installing equipment for themselves or friends in their driveways and garages. That hands-on experience typically led to a job at a local shop and allowed them to learn more about electrical theory, acoustics, physics, and fabrication. Those who have invested time in understanding these advanced concepts offer impressive value to consumers. That said, this experience and efficiency come at a cost. Let’s look at the benefits and drawbacks of professional versus DIY car audio upgrades.

Consideration 1: Time

Let’s say you want to install a new radio in your car or truck. You’ll need to go to the store, audition several radio options, then purchase the radio and all the necessary installation accessories. These days, you likely need a data interface, wire harness adapter, antenna adapter, USB adapter, and a mounting kit.

When you get home, you’ll connect the harness from the radio to the wire harness adapter. Then, you have to take the dash apart. If you have an older vehicle, this could be as simple as removing a few screws. Some older vehicles required special keys or tools to remove the radio. In some vehicles, you might have to remove the glove box or center console trim and parts of the dash before the radio becomes accessible. You’ll also need to remove trim pieces around the windshield to run the hands-free mic. Speaking of the Bluetooth mic, you’ll need to know where to install it and how to secure the wire so that it doesn’t drop down in front of the windshield.

Connecting the wiring is usually pretty simple. However, finding a location for the new modules and connectors can be a pain. We know people who have spent more than an hour trying to get a new radio to fit into the dash because of all the extra wiring and magic interface boxes.

Vehicle Interface Modules

Speaking of modules, you’ll want to include a steering wheel button interface. Depending on the unit you purchase, getting this programmed and working can take another 30 to 60 minutes. You may also need access to a computer to program the interface, so downloads and drivers on a Windows PC are in your future.

If the project goes well, between making the purchase, wiring, installation, and clean-up, you’ll likely need at least four to five hours. If there are issues and you have to go back to the store, the time could easily increase by 50%.

On the other hand, if you have a professional do the installation, they will most likely have already worked on your vehicle’s make and model. Buying a radio and then having it installed typically takes less than two hours.

Winner: Professional Installation

Consideration 2: Cost

We aren’t saying that your time doesn’t have value. From the standpoint of the raw out-of-pocket cost to upgrade a radio or install an amplifier, your time is free. On the other hand, paying a professional to work on your vehicle will cost well over $100 an hour.

If you have an entire day available and want to try an installation yourself, that’s your decision. If you have a busy schedule with family, work, sports, and time with friends, then spending an entire day guessing how to take your car apart, where to connect wires, how to configure modules, and put the whole thing back together without buzzes or rattles might be less appealing.

Nevertheless, installing it yourself is effectively free.

Winner: DIY

Consideration 3: Risk

Now, you might think we were stacking the cards in favor of the professionals with the list of challenges associated with upgrading a radio or adding an amplifier. While this is true, there is a long list of potential issues in terms of DIY automotive work.

First, there is liability. What if something goes wrong? What if a wire or tool slips and you short the accessory output of the body control module to ground? A new BCM will cost hundreds of dollars and might need to be programmed into the vehicle, which is likely another $150. One slip could cost you $500, plus the time and cost of getting and installing the part. If the damage is severe, you might not be able to drive the vehicle until the component is replaced.

If you damage a trim piece, that will also be expensive. The trim pieces for either side of an older Ford F-150 radio are about $100 each, and an A-pillar for a Hyundai Sonata is about the same.

Taking cars apart is a skill. Knowing where clips and fasteners are located combines talent and technology. Professional shops often subscribe to services like ProDemand from Mitchell1. ProDemand offers detailed instructions on how to take different parts of the vehicle apart and reassemble them. Shops can pay up to a few hundred dollars a month for this information. They work on vehicles all day, every day. As such, the investment is worthwhile in ensuring your vehicle is put back together perfectly.

Most importantly, if a shop working on your car or truck breaks something, they will repair or replace it. If it’s significant, their insurance company will make it right. If you are working with a reputable mobile enhancement retailer, the odds of something going wrong are slim. However, knowing they will make it right in the long run is paramount.

Winner: Professional Installation

Consideration 4: Technology

Working on a modern vehicle audio system is stunningly complicated, even when it seems quite simple. A base-model radio with four or six speakers likely includes equalization, all-pass filters, and signal delays. Yes, even systems without amplifiers include these technologies.

For example, many Chrysler and Dodge vehicles use a woofer in the front door and a small midrange speaker in the dash or sail panel. If you upgrade that speaker without considering the equalization in the signal from the amp, the system will sound bright and harsh.

Professional shops have the tools and training needed to measure the performance of the factory-installed audio system. Using that information, they can suggest upgrade solutions that will make new speakers sound better.

What are the consequences of not having this information? As mentioned above, new, better speakers might sound worse than the originals. If you integrate with a line-output converter, you might overdrive the device. This condition would result in significant distortion and potentially damage the speakers. Knowing how the factory-installed system functions is crucial to designing an upgrade that will sound excellent.

Winner: Professional Installation

Consideration 5: Materials and Quality

You will need some supplies to perform a high-quality installation. Good-quality wire cutters and crimpers are essential. For crimpers, those multi-tool crimpers and strippers don’t work well. A set of dedicated wire crimping pliers is the bare minimum standard. As Panduit and 3M outline, the proper tool is a ratcheting crimper.

If you are installing a radio, you will also need zip ties and heat-shrink or maybe electrical tape. You can spend anywhere from pennies to dollars on electrical tape. Don’t skimp on what you buy if you want it to remain adhered in temperatures from -40 to almost 140.

Say you need to build a set of speaker mounting adapters. Professional shops no longer use wood for adapters. Materials like expanded PVC, acrylic, ABS, Corian, or even aluminum are impervious to water damage. Further, they can be shaped to mimic the original mounting and are effective against water damage. You will need a router, a router lift, and a selection of cutting bits to make these adapters look like they belong. So, tack on another $1,000 for that.

You can certainly purchase any of these items or materials. However, you likely have to buy significantly more material than you’ll ever need. You’ll also have to invest in the tools to make the parts.

Winner: Professional Installation

Consideration 6: System Configuration and Calibration

One installation aspect that is continually overlooked is system configuration and calibration. Let’s say you’ve purchased a new radio. If it’s a mid-level or higher model, it likely has a 10-band equalizer, at the very least. Leaving this unconfigured is like ordering chicken wings without sauce at Duffs in Niagara Falls, NY. You’re going to miss out on something important.

Suppose your audio system includes adding a subwoofer and amplifier; testing to ensure the acoustic polarity between the sub and the rest of the speakers is crucial. If the system has a digital signal processor, adjusting the relative phase around this crossover point may be possible. Getting this right is crucial to making the system sound amazing.

Once again, it’s possible to purchase all this hardware and invest time in learning how to use it, but that will cost at least a few hundred dollars and require days of research and experimentation.

Winner: Professional Installation

What is Professional Car Audio Installation?

Searching for a shop to upgrade your vehicle starts with visiting the shops in your area. Ask the Product Specialist the same questions and consider their responses carefully. Are they working to help you find a solution that matches your goals, or are they more focused on maximizing their profits? Look at the shop’s website and social media. Do they have examples of their work, or are they just focused on selling as many boxes as possible to anyone who comes through their doors?

Study Their Work

Speaking of work, ask to see examples of what they’ve done. Look at the wiring. Is it tidy? Is it safe? Do they waste time making wiring look fancy, or is it hidden and properly protected? Look at how equipment is secured to the vehicle. Will a subwoofer enclosure stay in place, or will it become a lethal projectile in the event of an accident? Attention to detail is the name of the game here.

Ask about warranty coverage. What warranty do they offer on their workmanship? What are their policies on product warranty? Do you have to pay for removal and reinstallation? What about paying for shipping? Do they offer an over-the-counter exchange program on products they have installed? Do any of these policies apply to cash-and-carry items?

Professional or DIY Car Audio Upgrades

We do not doubt that we’ll get a LOT of feedback on this topic. There are excellent examples of DIY car audio upgrades. Sadly, there are hundreds of times as many examples of poor or dangerous work. As much fun as it is to tinker, your car is a complex machine. Vehicle manufacturers put a stunning amount of emphasis on reliability and safety when they design it.

If you want your car audio system to sound better, start researching which shop in your area does the best work and offers the highest-performing products for the money. Look for retailers with MECP Certified Product Specialists and Installation Technicians. Work with them to design an upgrade that fits your budget, meets your performance goals, and provides the best reliability. We know you’ll be happy with the investment if you choose wisely.

Lead-in image: On the left is a custom subwoofer enclosure created by Musicar Northwest in Portland, OR. It houses a single 10-inch driver and, most crucially, looks like it belongs in the vehicle. On the right is an amateur installation brought to Broken Silence Car Audio in Greenwich, CT, to be fixed—the ‘after’ photo is shown above.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.