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Carjacking Is on the Rise. It’s Time to Protect Yourself!

Carjacking

If you’ve been watching the news during the first half of 2022, you know that the number of carjackings taking place in major cities is increasing at an alarming rate. Why are criminals resorting to face-to-face confrontations? What should you do if someone approaches your vehicle? How can you protect yourself? The answers are all surprisingly simple.

Why Is Carjacking Suddenly Popular?

If a thief wants to ship a luxury or rare vehicle to another country, they must include a set of keys. If a relay attack is used to start the car, truck or SUV, the bad guys still need to buy new keys or fobs and have them programmed to the vehicle. The process could cost them upwards of a thousand dollars, and frankly, is a hassle. If they don’t have an original remote fob or key, the process is even more difficult and expensive. What if there were an easy way for them to get the vehicle and a key? The answer is carjacking.

What Is Carjacking?

Here’s a typical carjacking scenario. You leave for work in the morning in your Ford F-150. You pull up to a stop sign behind another vehicle. Suddenly, someone approaches your vehicle with a gun drawn. They order you out of the truck and drive away. Chances are, the car stopped in front of you at the sign (for longer than it should have been) is an accomplice to the crime and was there to distract you.

While it’s logical to think that expensive vehicles are carjackers’ primary target, any vehicle that can quickly be converted to money is at risk. So, whether it’s a Range Rover or BMW, a Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic, the risk is surprisingly similar. A whole car might be shipped overseas, or for other popular cars or trucks, the drivetrain, wheels and tires, airbags and seats might be sold piece by piece.

Carjacking
Many vehicles are stolen or carjacked because of their popularity, not just their value.

How Can You Prevent a Carjacking?

If you or your vehicle has been targeted, it might be difficult to prevent this unfortunate incident from taking place. If you have a dashcam installed or made it clear you have an aftermarket alarm (by unlocking the vehicle with an audible siren chirp), the thieves might move on to a different car or truck.

If you park somewhere with a lot of people around, you’re much less likely to run into trouble. This isn’t always easy, especially if you live in a quiet subdivision.

If you are well aware of your surroundings and notice someone approaching your vehicle, you can honk the horn or trigger the panic mode using your key fob. Thieves don’t ever want unnecessary attention. With that said, we suggest avoiding all aggressive behavior.

If someone approaches you with the intent to steal your vehicle, do exactly what you are told. Exit the vehicle with your phone, wallet or purse and let them take it. It’s just a vehicle. It can be replaced. Don’t challenge them. In fact, don’t say anything other than Yes or OK. Just step aside and let them go. Their adrenaline will be pumping, so even snide remarks could upset them and make things worse.

Carjacking
You are much more vulnerable if you’re stopped on a quiet side street than in a busy parking lot with other people around you.

Use Technology To Get Your Vehicle Back

In our opinion, equipping your vehicle with a telematics system that includes GPS tracking features is the best way to ensure that you’ll have your vehicle back in your driveway quickly. If you have a system such as DroneMobile installed and carjackers approach with guns drawn or they show one tucked into their waistband, step aside and let them go. Once they’re gone, call 911 right away and launch the DroneMobile app on your phone. You can give the police officers the exact location of your vehicle almost instantly. Let them decide how to handle the situation. Chances are, they’ll block the road and stop the thieves, or wait until the vehicle stops then take them into custody. Either way, getting your car or truck back should be a simple process. It might not be the same day, but it will get back to you quickly.

Carjacking
DroneMobile can pinpoint your vehicle’s location in seconds. You can provide this information to the police to help catch carjackers.

Share Accurate Information with Police

A little tip on providing location information to authorities: More and more emergency services like law enforcement, fire departments and ambulances are using an app called What3words. The app converts specific longitude and latitude data (which can be your current location) into a set of three simple English words. A 911 operator can use those words to give police officers a location with 10 feet of precision. This location information is more accurate than a street address, which can often be off by one or two houses or buildings. No matter what the scenario is, if you’re calling for help, providing your location using What3words can prevent confusion and help you get the assistance you need more quickly.

Upgrade Your Vehicle with DroneMobile Telematics

Whether you are worried about carjackings or simply want the benefit of a remote car starter and keyless entry system with smartphone control, drop by a local authorized DroneMobile retailer today. Should the unthinkable happen and you are carjacked, you’ll have all the tools you need to help the police apprehend the thieves and get your vehicle back.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Driver Safety, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Understanding Automotive Window Tint Shades and Colors

Window Tint ShadePicture this: You’ve just picked up a new car or truck from the dealer. They’ve washed it, given it a spritz with that lovely new car scent, put a big red bow on the hood or placed a basket of goodies in the trunk or cargo area. You’ve signed the papers, and you’re off for your first drive. For many of us, we’d drop by a family member’s or friend’s house to let them check out our new whip. For others, the first step is to start personalizing the vehicle. We’ve heard hundreds, if not thousands, of stories where new-vehicle owners head straight for their favorite automotive window tint shop for an upgrade. Unless you’re a veteran of vehicle upgrades, choosing the best window tint for your vehicle takes some knowledge and planning. What shade do you want? What safety and comfort options matter to you? Let’s look at automotive window tint shade and color considerations.

Why Should I Tint My Vehicle’s Windows?

There are four main reasons consumers might want the windows of their car or truck tinted. First, it can make the vehicle look better. A nice dark tint on a white or black vehicle can be very dramatic. The second reason people purchase window tint is comfort. The latest window tint films can block as much as 67% of the infrared heat energy from the sun. The third reason is security. Even a moderate tint film can help conceal objects left on the seat or floor of your vehicle. Finally and perhaps most importantly, all premium window films block between 97 and 99 of the harmful UV rays from the sun. This UV energy can damage your skin and accelerate the fading of leather, vinyl, carpets and upholstery in your vehicle. Your local mobile enhancement retailer can help you choose a film series to deliver the comfort and protection you want.

Understanding Window Tint Shades

Let’s start with a benchmark. The graph below is a spectrographic analysis of the energy coming from the sun. There was nothing in front of the sensor on the spectrometer.

Window Tint Shade
Spectrographic analysis of the light energy coming from the sun on a clear day.

The horizontal axis on the graph represents the wavelength of light in nanometers. Wavelength is the inverse of frequency. We are approaching the ultraviolet range on the left side of the chart, where the color is purple or violet. On the far right, we have dark red and are approaching the infrared range. The vertical scale is intensity, measured in microwatts per square centimeter. A higher value on the Y-axis represents more light at that specific wavelength. The small red line in the graph highlights the wavelength that was the most intense (brightest) for that measurement. The brightest in this measurement was 480 nanometers, which is a blue-green color.

Before we start measuring the tint films, we need to measure a piece of glass. I called a few local glass shops, and Clegg Glass in Burlington, Ontario, was able to provide me with a 12-by-12-inch piece of 1/8-inch-thick glass in less time than it took me to drive to their facility. Have to love prompt service!

While easy to see through, you likely know that glass isn’t transparent – it’s close, though. Most glass has a light green shade that’s visible when you look at the edge. Clear glass like you’d find in a house window blocks a small amount of light – usually delivering a visible light transmission (VLT) of around 89%. If you thought we wouldn’t start this article by testing these, you haven’t read enough BestCarAudio.com articles!

Window Tint Shade
Light energy from the sun (red) versus light energy after passing through 1/8-inch glass (green).

The chart above shows how much light energy passes through the glass compared with a direct reading from the sun. The difference isn’t significant.

Window Tint Shade
The difference between a direct light energy measurement and that light through a piece of glass.

This third graph shows how much energy and at what wavelength the glass blocks. The glass transmits all wavelengths reasonably uniformly. We can see that it stops some blue energy at 450 nanometers more than other wavelengths. There’s a spike at 380 nanometers where it blocks more energy that’s approaching the ultraviolet range.

Testing Automotive Tint Film Light Transmission

We reached out to Mike at Mobile Edge in Lehighton, Pennsylvania, to get some samples of the 3M automotive window films. They kindly sent 2-by-2-inch squares of the 11 different films they had in stock at the time. We’ll start our explanation of the film shades by measuring the light transmission performance of the Ceramic IR series, as they sent samples of 70, 35, 25, 15 and 5%.

Window Tint Shade

The graph shows how much light energy the spectrometer captured after passing through the different pieces of tint affixed to our glass piece. The Ceramic IR 70 with a 70% VLT is the top blue trace. Not surprisingly, the Ceramic IR 35 (yellow) lets in about half as much light energy as the CIR70. Of course, the CIR 5 is the darkest of the tints and lets in very little light energy.

A few interesting things to note from these measurements: All of the films do an excellent job of blocking low-wavelength energy in the violet range. This is because they are designed to offer excellent ultraviolet protection. 3M says they block over 99% of the UV energy from the sun. The second thing to notice is that the films have a downward taper to their transmission at higher wavelengths. Ceramic IR tint film offers good thermal energy rejection, so it makes sense that less infrared energy will pass.

Window Tint Shades

The next test is three different films with a 35% VLT rating. I had samples of Ceramic IR, Premium Series FX-HP and the Color Stable tint. Here’s how these films performed on our glass sample.

Window Tint Shade
Comparison of energy transmission of 3M Ceramic IR, Color Stable and Premium FX-HP films.

You’re likely to notice that FX-HP and Color Stable let through more energy in the higher wavelengths. These films are not marketed as being designed to block significant amounts of heat. Next, you’ll notice that FX-HP has a big dip around 690 nanometers (red) compared to the Color Stable film. The different balance of light energy transmission will not only make objects seen through the film look different but will give the film itself a different hue. Because the Ceramic IR films let more blue and green energy through, they have a slightly blue-green hue. Color Stable film has relatively neutral transmission characteristics, so it looks neutral and just grayish. Finally, FX Premium blocks more of the yellow and red wavelengths, so it has a very slight brown hue. As you can see by the dip on the left side of the graphs, all of the films do a great job of blocking UV energy.

Picking the Best Tint for Your Car or Truck

The product specialist at the mobile enhancement retailer installing the tint on your vehicle can help you navigate the options available to you. If you want heat rejection, Ceramic IR is the best choice. If you’re after a film that matches the tint on the factory privacy glass rear side windows, then Color Stable remains a popular option. If price is a concern, but you still want a quality film, then FX-HP is an excellent choice.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, RESOURCE LIBRARY, Window Tint

What Do Car Audio Subwoofer Frequency Response Specs Tell Us?

Subwoofer Frequency Response

Subwoofers. Yay for subwoofers! No upgrade to a car audio system will deliver a more noticeable improvement in performance and realism. Adding a properly designed subwoofer system to your car stereo is often one of the first upgrades we recommend. The challenge is finding a solution that will look and sound great while you make sense of myriad specifications that might not be helpful.

Subwoofers and High-Frequency Performance

The motivation for this article was a story a friend shared about a client who had downgraded their selection of subwoofers based on the published frequency response of two solutions. Subwoofer A claimed to offer output up to 600 hertz. Subwoofer B, which is the model the client switched to, claimed output to 2 kHz. The client theorized that he could use the sub to fill in midrange frequencies if needed, and as such it was, therefore, a better solution.

On paper, the logic isn’t wrong. But, in practice, that’s not how subwoofers work.

Why Subwoofers Have Low Crossover Frequencies

We typically run subwoofers with a low-pass filter set between 60 and 80 hertz in car audio systems. If the car has smaller door or dash speakers, the crossover might need to be set as high as 100 hertz. With the typical crossover slope of -24 dB/octave, the sub’s output would be attenuated by more than 50 dB by 400 hertz. The ability to play to 1 kHz isn’t essential.

Why do we cross subs over so low? Well, we don’t want to hear vocals coming out of them. Most subwoofers aren’t designed to handle midrange frequency reproduction well. Most of us want the vocals to come from the front speakers in our cars or trucks. Since male voices extend to around 100 hertz, it makes sense for this information to be played by the door- or dash-mounted woofers in the system, not the subwoofer.

Why can’t subwoofers play higher frequencies? There are two reasons. The first limiting factor is cone mass. A typical 10-inch subwoofer cone assembly weighs between 125 and 175 grams. That’s a lot of mass to move back and forth 1,000 times a second. In fact, it just doesn’t work. The cone can’t switch directions fast enough to track the input signal at that frequency, so the output is attenuated significantly.

The second issue is inductance. The voice coil assembly on a subwoofer also acts as an inductor. As frequency rises, so does impedance. The result is less high-frequency output. You can learn more about inductors in this article (Link to BCA inductor article once published).

“Needs More Midbass”

While midrange performance isn’t important for a subwoofer, midbass performance is crucial. Many subs on the market have cones heavy enough to limit their output at frequencies just above 100 hertz. This mechanical high-frequency filtering can make it very hard to get the phase response between the sub and the door speaker right. If the sub has some built-in mechanical attenuation and the technician working on your audio system adds some electrical filtering, the net acoustic result might not be ideal.

A subwoofer that can play an octave or two above the crossover frequency is important. Without that extension, the bass might sound disconnected from the rest of the system. Properly configured car audio systems deliver a smooth transition between the subwoofers and the woofers, which is crucial to reproducing music accurately.

Vague Frequency Response Specs Are Useless

We’ll state in no uncertain terms that any frequency response specifications published without tolerance values are as helpful as trying to make a painting with a brush but no canvas or paint. For example, a manufacturer could state that a speaker will play from 20 Hz to 20 kHz. Most would think that’s ideal, right? What if the output was down 40 dB at those frequencies relative to 1 kHz? Without a response tolerance, the information is useless. If you want to look at frequency response specs, a tolerance of 1 or 3 dB combined with low and high-frequency limits is required.

Subwoofer Frequency Response
An example of good frequency response information. This is the data JBL Professional provides with its 5628 dual 18-inch cinema subwoofer.

What Matters When Choosing a Subwoofer?

When choosing a subwoofer, the predicted frequency response is important. As we’ve explained repeatedly, a giant subwoofer in a small enclosure might not produce as much low-frequency output as a smaller subwoofer in the same space. Thankfully, we can use computer simulation software to predict the subwoofer’s performance. Let’s take a look at two subwoofers similar to what this client was considering.

Based purely on the Thiele/Small parameters of Subwoofer B, here’s the subwoofer’s response in a 1-cubic-foot sealed enclosure.

Subwoofer Frequency Response
Frequency response, in red, of Subwoofer B in a 1-cubic-foot sealed enclosure.

As you can see, the voice coil’s inductance attenuates the high-frequency response of the driver. By 1000 Hz, it’s down 17 decibels from its peak output at around 85 hertz. So stating that this driver plays up to 1.5 or 2 kilohertz is misleading and defies the laws of physics. What should matter is how much low-frequency information this subwoofer can produce. On the bottom end, it’s down 3 dB at 50 Hz and 10 dB at 29 hertz.

OK, let’s look at the original driver with the narrower published frequency response specifications.

Subwoofer Frequency Response
Frequency response, in yellow, of Subwoofer A in a 1-cubic-foot vented enclosure tuned to 35 hertz.

The first thing our intrepid amateur car audio system designer should notice is that this subwoofer has a much flatter response through the midbass region. Why? This driver has an aluminum shorting ring built into the motor. The shorting ring helps to reduce inductance dramatically. The shorting ring also reduces cone-position-based changes in inductance that all speakers experience. Ultimately, the shorting ring dramatically reduces distortion. Both drivers deliver very similar output in this enclosure regarding low-frequency output. Does this mean they sound the same? Absolutely not.

How Loudly Does It Play?

A key component in designing a proper subwoofer system is ensuring adequate power handling based on cone excursion. To get a better understanding of the topic, you might want to read the BestCarAudio.com article on cone excursion vs. distortion.

If we look at the cone excursion vs. frequency graph for Subwoofer B, we see that it exceeds its rated Xmax specifications at all frequencies below 30 hertz when driven with 400 watts. The suspension components (spider and surround) are typically selected based on the voice coil geometry Xmax specification, so distortion is likely to become significant if pushed hard with a 400-watt amplifier. A power level of 275 would be safe at all frequencies in this enclosure, and keeping things under 200 watts is likely a good suggestion.

Subwoofer Frequency Response
Cone excursion vs. frequency, in red, of Subwoofer B when driven with 400 watts of power.

On the other hand, Subwoofer A has a much more significant Xmax specification. It’s good at all frequencies at 400 watts and can handle 775 watts without the voice coil leaving the gap. This increased excursion capability allows Subwoofer A to produce significantly more output. It also means that Subwoofer A likely sounds clearer and more accurate when driven with 400 watts than Subwoofer B.

Subwoofer Frequency Response
Cone excursion vs. frequency, in yellow, of Subwoofer A when driven with 400 watts of power.

What Do We Need To Know About Subwoofer Frequency Response Specifications?

When buying subwoofers, frequency response specifications like 20-200 Hz or 25 Hz to 1.5 kHz are useless unless there is an amplitude tolerance specification. An applicable specification would be 25 to 300 kHz (±1.5dB). As mentioned in other articles (https://www.bestcaraudio.com/when-it-comes-to-subwoofer-specifications-some-numbers-dont-matter/), efficiency specifications like 85dB@1W/1M are also irrelevant, as they don’t take into account how the enclosure affects low-frequency performance.

Suppose you want to know how a particular subwoofer will perform in your vehicle. In that case, the specialty mobile enhancement retailer you’re working with should model the driver in the enclosure they will be using with BassBox Pro, Term-Pro, LEAP, WinISD or something similar. You can then look at the driver options to see how the predicted response and effective efficiency will change. Sadly, in the case of Subwoofer A vs. Subwoofer B, the client chose incorrectly. He missed out on a great subwoofer because he was misled by irrelevant information.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Not All Window Films Are the Same. So What’s the Difference?

Tint Films

If you’re considering having the windows of your car, truck, SUV or van tinted, there’s definitely a variety of films available. We aren’t talking about different brands like 3M, Llumar, Suntek and Tint World. We’re also not referring to the different shades or light transmission properties of film. There are four types of film available for your car or truck: dyed, metallic, carbon and ceramic. Each offers different benefits and, depending on your reasons for having your windows tinted, may or may not be the perfect solution.

How Dyed Window Tint Is Made

Dyed tint film starts with the delivery of bulb polyester beads to the manufacturing company. The beads are fed into an extrusion machine to mix and compress them until they melt together to form a thick liquid. An extruder is like a giant, heavy-duty meat grinder. Some companies will run the melted polyester through multiple stages of filtering and repeated extruding to ensure that the finished product is as pure as possible.

Once they’re happy with the mixing and heating process, they place the clear liquid on a smooth, temperature-controlled drum to begin taking the shape of the film. After the film comes off the drum, it’s stretched lengthwise and across its width to align the molecules and give the material strength. How much the sheet is stretched also determines the final thickness – an important consideration for a tinter who has to apply film to a curved glass surface.

A dye is then added to the polyester film to block light transmission. More dye results in a darker film. You can think of the dying process like making a tie-dyed T-shirt, though it takes special chemicals and proper heating to execute the process reliably. Films in a series are sold by their visible light transmission, or VLT, ratings. A very dark 5% tint film will allow about 5% of visible light through to the interior of the vehicle. A light film, say 50%, blocks only 50% of the light.

Once the dying process is complete, three more layers still need to be added. First, a scratch-resistant coating is added. This coating prevents swirls and scuffs when you or your detailer clean the windows. The next layer is an adhesive. The type of adhesive that each brand and series of film uses plays a huge role in the reliability of the film. If you’ve seen a rear window that’s full of bubbles – it’s most likely because an adhesive has failed. Finally, the last layer is a release layer. The release layer protects the adhesive and allows the technician to cut and shape the film until they’re ready to apply it to the window. This release layer is like the silicone coating paper that a sticker is attached to before you put it on your car bumper or your toolbox.

Tint Films

The benefit of dyed tint films is that they are the most affordable. The biggest drawback, though, is their limited longevity. The dyes are prone to fading or turning purple after months or a few years of exposure to the UV rays from the sun. There are, of course, many quality levels of dyed films. If the price you’ll be paying to have your windows tinted seems too good to be true, it’s not likely a deal – it’s inexpensive film.

If you need a tint for a vehicle that you’ll only own for a year or two, dyed film might be a solution. With that said, many shops that offer premium window tinting services no longer offer dyed films, since they turn out to be more of a headache than they’re worth.

Tint Films
An example of a low-quality dyed film where the adhesive has failed.

Metallic Window Tint Film

The next step up in film technology is metallic films. This type of film starts with the same extruded polyester sheets but has a microscopic layer of metal (often aluminum) added either by sputtering, electron beam coating or vapor deposition coating. Vapor deposition coating involves super-heating the metal particles into a fog that the film passes through. While effective, the consistency across and along the film isn’t always perfect. The sputtering process is more consistent and involves passing the film through a vacuum chamber, where a high-voltage electric charge is used to vaporize and transfer the metal to the film. This method of coating is common in telescope and photography lenses as it’s very uniform.

Once the metal has been applied to the base polyester film, it’s finished in the same way as a dyed film with the addition of a protective layer, an adhesive layer and a release layer.

There are a couple of benefits to metallic films. They don’t have the same problems with fading as a dyed film, and they can block a small amount of infrared heat from the sun to help keep your vehicle cooler. Unfortunately, there’s an issue with metallic film in that it can block radio signals. If your car radio antenna is integrated into your vehicle’s rear window, metallic film can affect its performance. If you have a smartphone or a portable navigation system, the film may reduce reception. In some vehicles, it also affects keyless entry and tire pressure monitoring systems.

Tint Films
Metallic tint films can reduce the ability of portable navigation systems to receive signals from satellites.

Carbon Window Tint Film

In recent years, one of the more popular films uses carbon to block light and heat energy. Different companies may use various mixtures of carbon to help produce a rich, dark look rather than the brownish hue that the early solutions offered. The nanoscale carbon particles are often mixed into the adhesive layer rather than being bonded with the polyester.

In terms of benefits, carbon offers a boost in thermal energy rejection over metallic films, and the newer formulations are very stable in terms of not fading or changing colors. Their drawback is a tendency to be a bit hazy when you look through them at a low angle, rather than being perpendicular to the glass. This haziness comes from the size of the carbon particles. Of course, it’s the size of those particles that offers the heat rejection.

Tint Films
Carbon window tint is a good option for those who want to match the dark, rich look of OEM tint on the rear windows of SUVs and pickup trucks.

A subset of metallic and carbon films combines one of those technologies with a dyed polyester sub-layer to fine-tune the color of the film and its darkness. The cost of metallic or carbon films is higher than those that are dyed, so combining them can yield financial benefits.

Tint Films

Ceramic Window Films

At this point in time, ceramic films are the best available. Though it varies from brand to brand, the basic concept is similar to a metallic film in that the light- and heat-blocking particles are suspended in a layer of adhesive. In most films, this adhesive is between two layers of polyester. Some manufacturers claim to have over 200 layers in their films. Though it appears to be a closely guarded secret, several brands claim to use titanium nitride in their ceramic films to block light and reduce IR transmission.

The biggest benefit of ceramic film is its ability to block infrared energy. Most ceramic films block three to six times as much heat energy as the darkest dyed films. Ceramic films don’t suffer from fading issues, and they don’t affect radio reception. They are also quite clear. Their only drawback is their cost and, depending on the brand, their color. You can expect to pay significantly more for a high-quality ceramic window tint film compared with all the other options. In our opinion, the performance benefits and longevity are worth every penny. As for color, ceramic films can have a slightly greenish-blue hue. This varies by brand. Don’t fret, the color is subtle, and it won’t make your car look like Kermit the Frog is behind the wheel.

Tint Films
Ceramic window tint is the best option to keep you and your passengers comfortable on a hot day.

If you’re shopping for window tint for your car or truck, be sure to choose a shop that can demonstrate the performance differences of the films they offer. Most importantly, they should have a clean workspace with the proper tools and training to perfectly execute film installations.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, RESOURCE LIBRARY, Window Tint

Speaker Distortion Increases with Cone Excursion

Speaker Distortion

Few people in the car audio industry seem to grasp that speakers are typically the weakest link in audio systems, in terms of adding distortion to what we hear. Whether it’s a poor design with improper voice coil centering in the magnetic gap or poor magnetic or compliance linearity, speakers add significant amounts of unwanted information to what we hear. This article will take a deep dive into explaining how increased cone excursion affects distortion.

Understanding Car Audio Speaker Cone Excursion

Speaker cones move back and forth to excite air molecules and produce sound. They function in the same way that hitting the skin of a drum, blowing through a horn or vibrating the string of a guitar creates pressure waves in the air. If we apply more voltage to a speaker, the cone moves more. Reproducing low-frequency information requires that air molecules be displaced further, requiring more cone excursion (and more voltage) to produce bass frequencies. Larger instruments like an upright bass, concert grand piano and timpani also produce more low-frequency information than a banjo, spinet piano or bongo drum.

Unfortunately for speakers, the more their cones move forward and rearward, the more chances there are for the cone to not track the electrical signal perfectly. When this happens, unwanted harmonic information is added to the audio signal. We call this distortion. If the cone, dust cap or surround resonates, this also adds unwanted distortion. It’s not uncommon for speakers playing at moderate output levels to reach well over 1% distortion. This means that more than 1% of the sound they produce doesn’t follow the input signal accurately.

Measuring and Understanding Speaker Distortion

To help explain this concept, I took a popular 6.5-inch PA-style speaker that’s used in car audio systems and mounted it in my test enclosure. I set up my Clio Pocket with the microphone a few millimeters from the cone and performed a series of frequency response sweeps at different power levels. The Clio system can analyze the measurement and display second- and third-order harmonic information. Let’s look at the first measurement in detail.

Speaker Distortion
Nearfield frequency response of a PA-style speaker driven with 0.25 watt of power.

The graph you see above shows three pieces of information. First, the red trace is the frequency response of the speaker. This trace tells us how much energy the speaker produces at different frequencies when fed with a chirp signal. The chirp signal is a sine wave sweep that starts at 20 Hz and ends at 40 kHz. I adjusted the output of the amplifier for this test such that it produced right at 1 volt of output, which is 0.25 watt into a 4-ohm load.

The perfect speaker (which doesn’t exist) would produce a perfectly flat frequency response from the lowest bass frequencies to the highest of high frequencies. This speaker was within about 5 dB of flat from 200 Hz to 3000 Hz. Remember, this measurement is with the microphone right at the cone, so the sound pressure level numbers on the left don’t directly correlate to what you’d hear in a car or truck unless you installed the speaker in your headrest. Uh, please don’t do that.

The blue trace is the second-order harmonic distortion trace. To explain what this information means, let’s look at a specific frequency, 200 Hz. The speaker is producing about 88 dB SPL of output at 200 Hz. This is called the fundamental frequency. The blue trace tells us that it’s also producing a second harmonic (which would be 400 Hz) at a level of 38 dB SPL. Again, the absolute numbers don’t matter, but we need to know that the distortion is 50 dB below the fundamental. That works out to 0.316% for the second-order harmonic.

The green trace is the level of the third-order harmonic, which for a 200 Hz signal is 600 Hz. We have an output of about 29 dB SPL, 59 dB below the fundamental and representing a distortion level of 0.112%.

I’ll reiterate and rephrase this to be precise: If you feed this speaker a 200 hertz signal at a level of 0.25 watt, it will also produce output at 400 hertz and 600 hertz (and many more multiples). This is how speaker distortion works, and it’s common to every speaker of every design, at every price point and from every manufacturer. Finally, better speakers add less distortion – that’s a key part of what makes them better. I deliberately chose this PA-style speaker because it has an extremely short voice coil, so it will be easy to push it into high levels of distortion at low frequencies with minimal power. The purpose is to quantify how distortion increases with cone excursion, not to “test” this speaker.

More Power Means More Distortion

For the next test, I increased the output of the amplifier to 2.83 volts, which works out to 2 watts of power. This added power should correlate to a 9 dB increase in output.

Speaker Distortion
Nearfield frequency response of a PA-style speaker driven with 2 watts of power.

The first thing to notice is that the shape of the frequency response trace (red) didn’t change. Second, the speaker did increase its output by exactly 9 dB. You have to love the laws of physics! What matters in this measurement is that the harmonic distortion has increased significantly. The increase isn’t linear with the increase in output from the speaker. Looking at 200 Hz again, the first harmonic is now at a level of -44 dB relative to the fundamental, which is 0.631% THD. The third harmonic is at 50 dB below the fundamental, which is 0.316% THD.

Let’s double the power again to 4 watts and see what happens.

Speaker Distortion
Nearfield frequency response of a PA-style speaker driven with 4 watts of power.

The fundamental has increased another 3 dB as expected. The first-order harmonic content at 200 Hz is at -42 dB relative to the fundamental, which is 0.794% THD. The third-order is 47 dB below the fundamental, which is 0.446%.

Let’s double the power again to 8 watts and repeat the measurements.

Speaker Distortion
Nearfield frequency response of a PA-style speaker driven with 8 watts of power.

The fundamental is right at 103 dB SPL at 200 Hz, and the second harmonic is 40 dB lower at 63 dB SPL. This represents almost exactly 1% total harmonic distortion. The third harmonic is down 44 dB, which is 0.631% THD. We won’t get into the math here, but the total distortion caused by all harmonics wasn’t measured in this test, and you can’t add the numbers directly (e.g. 1.631%).

OK, let’s bump up the power again to 16 watts.

Speaker Distortion
Nearfield frequency response of a PA-style speaker driven with 16 watts of power.

While we continue to focus on the 200 Hz calculations, look what’s happening to the third-order harmonic distortion down below 100 Hz – it’s getting louder very quickly and is actually catching up to the fundamental information. Nevertheless, at 200 Hz, the second-order harmonic output is at 37 dB below the fundamental, which is 1.412% distortion. The third-order distortion is at -40 dB relative to the fundamental, which is 1.0 % THD.

Hopefully, you’re starting to see a pattern. Let’s double the power again to 32 watts and see how the speaker behaves.

Speaker Distortion
Nearfield frequency response of a PA-style speaker driven with 32 watts of power.

We picked up another 3 dB of output across the board. Our fundamental is at 108 dB at 200 Hz and the first harmonic is down only 34 dB, which is right at 1.995% THD. The third-order harmonic output is down 38 dB at 1.259% THD. If you’re getting the feeling the speaker would sound terrible attempting to reproduce audio information at 200 Hz at a drive level of 32 watts, you are right.

OK, one last time. Let’s double the power again to 64 watts and analyze the frequency response and harmonic content.

Speaker Distortion
Nearfield frequency response of a PA-style speaker driven with 64 watts of power.

With the fundamental output at 111 dB at 200 Hz, we have 79 dB of output at the second harmonic of 400 Hz, which represents 2.511% THD. The third harmonic output at 600 Hz is at 76 dB, which is 35 dB below the fundamental, or 1.778% THD.

Speaker Distortion

The chart above summarizes the increase in distortion relative to the increase in output. It’s easy to see how the second and third harmonics continue to get louder relative to the fundamental frequency.

Look at what’s happening down at 100 Hz and below. The third-order harmonic output is as loud or louder than the fundamental. When you feed this speaker 64 watts of power at 50 Hz, it produces 93 dB SPL of output (with the mic in this position) and 97 dB of output at 600 Hz. That’s audio information that wasn’t in the music. If you want to do the math, or, more accurately, if you’d like me to do the math, that’s 158% distortion.

What Have We Learned about Speaker Distortion?

There are two takeaways from this first look at car audio speaker distortion. First, the amount of distortion produced by a speaker increases as the cone excursion increases. We should already know from other articles that cone excursion increases at lower frequencies. Putting together these pieces of information tells us that we don’t want to push the smaller speakers in our vehicles to reproduce the bottom two or three octaves of the audible music range. Adding a subwoofer system with a dedicated amplifier and a speaker designed to reproduce low frequencies allows for more bass and can dramatically improve the clarity of the midrange speakers in your audio system.

Second, in general, 6.5-inch PA-style speakers aren’t good at reproducing audio below about 300 hertz. If you understand speaker enclosure design and have modeled this type of speaker using software like BassBox Pro, Leap or Term-Pro, you’ll know that most of these drivers have a -3 dB frequency in the 150 to 200 Hz range. So, pushing this type of speaker to produce audio information below 250 hertz is asking for trouble, or at the very least, lots of distortion.

Choose Your Car Audio Speakers Wisely

If you’re shopping for new speakers for your car or truck, drop by your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer and listen to the options they have available. Suppose you’re the type who likes to correlate features with performance. In that case, drivers that use aluminum or copper shorting rings, feature flat spiders or have a copper distortion-reducing cap on the pole piece are likely to add less distortion than models without.

Look for speakers with cone materials that balance mass with rigidity and damping characteristics – getting any of these wrong is a recipe for trouble. Finally, trust your ears. The speaker should sound smooth and natural with no emphasis anywhere in the frequency range, especially in the bass region. If they sound good on a display compared to the rest, they are a good choice for your car or truck.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

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