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Product Spotlight: Rockford Fosgate HD14RGST-STAGE3 Harley-Davidson Stereo Upgrade

Rockford Fosgate HD14RGST-STAGE3

Rockford Fosgate has cemented itself as the undisputed leader in Harley-Davidson motorcycle audio system upgrades in the past few years. They offer dozens of direct bolt-in speaker and amplifier kits for all the popular touring bike models. In this spotlight, we will look at the HD14RGST-STAGE3 aftermarket audio system for 2014 and newer Street Glide and 2015 and up Road Glide touring bikes. This kit also works with the Road Glide Special and Street Glide Special bikes from the same year.

Rockford Fosgate Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Sound Systems

Rockford Fosgate HD14RGST-STAGE3

Harley-Davidson has done a good job engineering the Boom! Box infotainment system on the latest touring bikes. Although the source unit is amazing, the first-generation factory-installed sound system falls short in speaker output capability and power delivery. Rockford Fosgate’s HD14RGST-STAGE3 kit is the perfect upgrade to make the audio system crystal clear at 75 mph and even drown out that rowdy exhaust note.

The HD14RGST-STAGE3 includes a set of Power Series 6.5-inch speakers and grilles for the front fairing, a pair of 6×9-inch speakers and grilles for the saddlebags, a Power Series four-channel amplifier and all the wiring, connectors and mounting components your installer will need to complete the installation. Best of all, everything integrates into the wiring on the bike without any modifications so it won’t affect a brand-new motorcycle’s electrical system warranty.

The TMS65 and TMS69 speakers in the kit were designed specifically for motorcycle and powersports applications – meaning they are frequency-response tuned for open-air environments and protected to withstand the harsh outdoors. They include oversized voice coils on the woofers to handle extreme power levels for long periods. The Vertical Attach Surround Technique (VAST) cone and surround design increases the effective radiating area of these drivers to deliver more output than conventional drivers. Grilles are included for both the Road Glide and Street Glide fairings.

The HD14RGST-STAGE3 system includes the TMS69BL14 saddlebag speaker installation kit. Your installer can mount the TMS69 speakers in the bag lid covers quickly and efficiently with these parts. There’s no need to spend money or waste time color-matching new lid covers to get great sound. Finally, these speakers are designed to meet Rockford Fosgate’s strict Element Ready requirements to withstand rain, dust and prolonged UV exposure without failing.

Rockford Fosgate HD14RGST-STAGE3
The TMS69BL14 Saddlebag Speaker Kit is a perfect solution to add big sound to your existing saddlebags.

The TM400X4ad four-channel amplifier is rated to simultaneously produce up to 100 watts of power to each of the four speakers. Knowing how Rockford Fosgate rates its amps, actual power is likely 10 to 15% higher. The system includes the RFK-HD14 amplifier mounting bracket with an integrated heatsink that works with Bat Wing and Shark Nose fairings. Power wiring, speaker connectors and signal input harness with OE-grade Harley-specific connectors are also included. The optional DSR1 digital signal processor can easily be added to upgrade the system using the included loop-through harness.

Speaking of the factory-installed Boom! Box radio, an authorized Rockford Fosgate retailer will need to flash the software in the radio to change its built-in equalizer settings before bringing the new amp and speakers to life. You can find a retailer with the tools and training to do this here.

Rockford Fosgate HD14RGST-STAGE3
Everything your installer needs to integrate the new speakers and amplifier into the wiring on your bike is included with the HD14RGST-STAGE3 kit.

Enjoy Your Favorite Music on the Road

If you’ve ever been frustrated that the audio system on your motorcycle starts to distort and become garbled just before it gets loud enough, the HD14RGST-STAGE3 is the cure. The new speakers are more efficient and sound better than what comes with most motorcycles. The amplifier can deliver clean and clear power to extract every ounce of performance from the new Power Series motorcycle speakers. In short, even if you’re cruising down the interstate with friends, Rockford Fosgate’s motorcycle speaker and amplifier kit will ensure that Clapton, Seger, Cash or Skynyrd will absolutely rock!

To learn more about upgrading the sound system on your Harley-Davidson Road Glide, Street Glide or any of their touring bikes, visit the Rockford Fosgate website. You can keep up with the latest new motorcycle audio system offerings by following our friends from Tempe, Arizona, on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Motorcycle Audio, PRODUCTS Tagged With: Rockford Fosgate

Here’s How Car Audio Amplifier Classes Maximize Efficiency

Amplifier Classes

In the past, we’ve looked at Class AB and Class D amplifier classes, the two most popular configurations in the mobile electronics industry. With that said, a few other classes deserve some explanation, as they can deliver improvements in amplifier efficiency without altering the sound quality. This article will review Class AB and Class D and then talk about G and H designs. We’ll also dispel some myths about device topology and how these amplifiers work.

How Does the Amp Output Stage Work?

Before we talk about output device configurations, we need to explain how the output stage of an amplifier works. When your installer connects a speaker to an amplifier, they expect a voltage proportional to the input signal to be supplied. The amplifier power supply determines the maximum voltage that can be provided to the speaker and the impedance of the speaker determines how much current will flow. Our limits are the voltage of the power supply and its current delivery capabilities.

Almost every amplifier uses what’s known as a Class B output device configuration in car audio systems. This circuit design uses two switching devices (transistors or MOSFETS) to alternate between the amp’s positive and negative voltage supplies. When both are off, no voltage is supplied to the signal. When the positive device is on, a positive voltage is supplied to the speaker, and it moves outward. When the negative device is on, the speaker moves inward. The level of our audio signal determines how “on” each device is. This configuration is often referred to as a push-pull design.

Amplifier Classes
Positive and negative switching devices in an amplifier circuit let us know that it’s configured in a Class B topology.

Class AB Car Audio Amplifiers

A Class AB amplifier is a Class B amp adjusted to make the transition between the positive and negative switching devices smooth and effectively distortion-free. Most amplifiers switch from one device to the other with as little overlap as possible so the amplifier can be as efficient as possible.

A few high-end amplifiers allow both devices to overlap their operation a little more than normal to ensure that the transition is even smoother and less crossover distortion is created. This configuration reduces distortion at the expense of increasing how much current the amp draws. When appropriately executed, the results can be quite astonishing. The ARC Audio SE-Series and D’Amore Engineering A-Series amplifiers are great examples of these high-bias designs.

Amplifier Classes
ARC Audio’s Signature Edition amplifiers feature a high-bias Class AB output configuration that delivers amazing sound quality.

For a more scientific look at how A, B and AB stages are configured, check out this BestCarAudio.com article.

Amplifier Classes
Almost every car audio amplifier uses a Class B output device configuration with fixed power supply rail voltages. The green trace represents the audio signal, the red trace is the positive rail voltage and the black trace is the negative rail voltage.

Class G and Class H Amplifiers

A few companies that truly understand what genuine enthusiasts expect from a high-end car audio amplifier have implemented what are known as Class G and Class H designs. Unlike Class B, G and H don’t refer to an output device configuration at all. G and H are different methods of adjusting the power supply’s output to improve an amplifier’s efficiency. As such, Class G and Class H amplifiers are subsets of a Class B amp.

The power supply may be configured in a Class G amplifier to deliver two more output voltages. The amp operates typically at a lower-than-maximum rail voltage so that less heat is generated in the output devices. When you crank up the music, the amp will dynamically switch the power supply output to a high-voltage mode, so the output signal doesn’t get clipped. Some amps’ switching is based on average power level requirements, and others can change based on the audio signal’s immediate needs. A Class G amplifier’s output devices are configured in a standard Class B topology and, with proper biasing, deliver the same amazing sound quality.

Amplifier Classes
In a Class G amplifier, the power supply voltage increases when the amp needs to deliver extra power.

Class H amplifiers are very similar to Class G, except that the power supply voltage tracks the audio waveform at high output levels. So, rather than low- and high-voltage modes, the voltage is variable. This configuration offers further improvement in amp efficiency of Class G with the same sound quality as B.

Amplifier Classes
In a Class H amplifier, the power supply voltage can track the audio voltage above a certain level for excellent efficiency. The amp still uses a Class B output device topology.

Class D Amplifiers Deliver Efficiency

A Class D amplifier still uses the same Class B output device configuration, with separate positive and negative switching devices. Where it differs is in how the devices are driven. The analog audio waveform is processed by a controller IC into a series of pulses with different widths. The pulses switch the positive or negative output devices all the way on or off very quickly. A large filter network between the output devices and the speaker smooths these pulses to recreate the original analog waveform.

The efficiency benefit comes from the output devices acting as switches rather than resistors. With little time being partially on or off, very little heat is generated.

Modern Class D driver ICs operate at impressively high frequencies. Some run as fast as 600 kHz, so delivering good high-frequency audio performance is less of an issue than for amplifiers designed a few decades ago. These same ICs include low-voltage operation features to help amplifiers work in vehicles with stop-start electrical systems.

Amplifier Classes
Full-range Class D amplifiers like the UP 7DSP from Match will function at supply voltages under 6V for a second or two so they don’t cut out in vehicles with stop-start ignition systems.

It’s All About Amplifier Efficiency

These days, installers want the smallest and most efficient amplifiers they can find. These criteria make installations more manageable. For those who are genuinely passionate about their listening experience, the larger amplifiers with Class AB output stages still deliver the best performance. If you’re shopping for an amplifier for your car audio system, drop by your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer and ask them about the amplifier classes they offer. Based on your vehicle, power needs and performance expectations, they’ll help you choose a solution that will ensure that the music you listen to sounds great!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Car Audio

Control Your Vehicle Remotely with Your Smartphone

Smartphone Remote

Using a smartphone app to control your remote start or car alarm system is nothing new. Technologies like Drone from Firstech have been around for several years. As with any technology, manufacturers are always working on new features that improve existing platforms’ usefulness or are developing alternative solutions. In this article, the BestCarAudio.com team will look at how smartphone remote control options have advanced over the years.

Lightning-Fast Response Times

One of the most significant changes to systems such as Drone has been the implementation of LTE connectivity. LTE, which unceremoniously stands for Long-Term Evolution, offers a boost in data transmission rate over the traditional 3G communication standard that’s been around since 2003. Not only is the maximum speed much faster, but the latency or delay time is reduced.

What does this improvement in speed mean to someone with a Drone X1-LTE or X1-MAX interface in their vehicle? Commands from your phone are relayed to your vehicle four to ten times faster than with 3G systems. Unlocking your car with Drone is just about as fast as using a one-button RF remote. The speed is absolutely amazing, considering that the message from your phone has to travel through the internet to the Drone servers at Amazon Web Services (AWS), be authenticated, then forwarded to the cellular network for transmission to your vehicle.

More Than Just a Remote Control

Drone does a lot more than just let your phone mimic the buttons on a wireless remote. The system lets you monitor battery voltage, so you’ll know if there’s something wrong before you get to your vehicle and are stranded with a dead battery. Likewise, you can check the temperature inside your vehicle from the app to let you decide if you need to remote start the vehicle five minutes before leaving work, or just a minute.

Smartphone Remote
Knowing whether the interior of your car or truck is hot or cold makes it easy to decide when to use your remote start system.

If you have opted for one of the GPS-activated Premium or Ultimate packages, the system will provide maintenance reminders based on the distance you’ve driven. These can help you plan when you need an oil change based on actual vehicle use. If you are managing a fleet of vehicles, this is a godsend!

The system can also communicate with the engine management system to monitor diagnostic trouble codes. If the Check Engine light pops up, you’ll get a message on your phone. In some cases, these warnings are related to something simple like a loose gas cap. In some cases, these warnings indicate that something is wrong with the vehicle and that it needs immediate service. Again, this might be information that your staff doesn’t always remember to share with you as a fleet owner.

Smartphone Remote
Real-time tracking of vehicle use lets you know when it’s time for regular maintenance.

Bluetooth Vehicle Control Options

If you want effectively unlimited range, then a cellular-based smartphone remote control option is the only choice. With that said, what if your phone could connect to your vehicle directly using technology like Bluetooth? A product called CarLink (in the US) or SmartControl (in Canada) may be exactly what you are looking for, and more!

This remote control package includes a one-button remotes that provide two-way communication with a range of up to 1.5 miles or 2.4 kilometers. The antenna and remotes work with most name-brand remote starter and security systems on the market, including Compustar, Viper, iDatastart, CodeAlarm, Omega, Pursuit and many more.

Smartphone Remote
The CarLink ASCLBTLR system includes a rechargeable one-button remote and an antenna, both of which include a Bluetooth transceiver to work with your smartphone.

Here’s where your phone comes into play. With the CarLink/SmartControl app installed on your phone, you have the option of connecting directly to the antenna in your vehicle using Bluetooth. You can lock, unlock, arm/disarm or remote start your vehicle with a tap on the screen. You can also monitor battery voltage and remaining remote start runtime, and if your starter system includes a thermistor, you can see the temperature in the vehicle. Pretty neat, isn’t it?

Well, wait a second, it gets better. The remotes have Bluetooth transceivers built-in. This connectivity option means that you can connect your smartphone to the remote, then use the radio-frequency (RF) communication to talk to your vehicle. Now, your phone has more than a mile of range available, so you can start your car or check to make sure the doors are locked from inside an apartment or building. Best of all, because it’s all RF-based, there are no fees involved to use the service.

Smartphone Remote
The SmartControl RFK-6000 remote kit includes a Bluetooth-equipped windshield antenna and the unique ultra-thin TXBLCC rechargeable remote control with Bluetooth.

Update Your Car Starter or Security System with Smartphone Control

Whether you need unlimited range from a cellular-based smartphone control system or want to be able to use an RF remote with an app, many technologies are available. Drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer today to find out how you can make it easier than ever to start your car or truck using an app on your Android or Apple phone.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Remote Car Starters

Proper Headlight Aiming Makes Driving Safer at Night

Headlight Aiming

As fall approaches, we find the sun setting hours earlier than it did in the summer. With this increase in darkness, we need to rely on the forward lighting systems in our cars and trucks to keep us safe. In this article, we are going to look at the importance of making sure your headlights are aimed properly. Proper horizontal and vertical adjustments will ensure that you can see far enough down the road to react to obstacles or avoid animals. Of equal importance, aiming your lights so that they aren’t blinding oncoming drivers is crucial to those drivers staying in their lane and not colliding with your vehicle. The science and process are simple, but they’re often overlooked.

Headlights Are an Important Safety System

In addition to your vehicle’s tires and braking system, your headlights are one of the most critical safety systems on your vehicle. If you can’t see far enough down the road when it’s dark, you won’t have time to react to objects in your path. At 60 miles per hour, you and your vehicle are covering 88 feet per second. Given than most humans have a reaction time of about one half of a second, and it takes another half of a second to move your right foot from the gas pedal to the brake, you’ve already traveled 80 feet. Now, consider that the average vehicle requires between 120 and 145 feet to stop from 60 mph, and you’ve likely traveled at least 200 feet.

Most low-beam lighting systems provide useful output to a range of 100 feet. Some of the better HID and LED systems are bright enough to illuminate 150 feet in low-beam mode. Driving at a speed where you don’t have enough time to stop because of your lighting system’s limits is called overdriving your headlights.

Headlight Aiming
Even factory-installed lighting systems need to be checked regularly to ensure that they’re providing adequate performance.

How Can You Upgrade Your Lighting System?

Upgrading the lighting on your vehicle involves two factors. First, you need a light source that is bright enough to illuminate the road at a distance that gives you enough time to react safely. Next, your lights need to be aimed perfectly to make use of their output capabilities. If your lights are aimed down at an angle of five degrees, then the area in front of your vehicle might be bright, but you’ll never see more than 100 feet down the road. Conversely, having your lights aimed horizontally might provide good long-distance vision, but this can lead to your lights blinding oncoming drivers. A driver approaching you who cannot see the edges of the road or your vehicle is as dangerous as you not seeing where you are going. Proper headlight aiming is paramount!

Headlight Aiming
High-performance LED bulb upgrades like the Intense Series from ODX can provide three times as much light output as a conventional Halogen headlight bulb.

When Should I Have My Headlight Aim Checked?

The first sign that your lighting system needs adjustment would be that oncoming drivers are flashing their high beams at you as they approach. Blinding an oncoming driver is extremely dangerous. Likewise, if your lights don’t light up the rear bumper of a vehicle a car’s length in front of you, they need adjustment.

If you have made any modifications to your vehicle, you should have your technician check the headlight alignment. Changes to tire diameter or suspension height, especially if you have installed a leveling kit or lowering springs, require that the lights be adjusted. If you have added weight to your vehicle in the form of a stereo upgrade with a subwoofer system, the additional mass in the rear of the vehicle may also necessitate a change in light aiming.

Let’s Talk About Headlight Aiming Angle

The farther your lights are above the road, the steeper they can be angled downwards while still allowing you to see approximately 150 feet in front of the vehicle. Many websites cite a specific angle that is deemed to be suitable for all applications. The reality is, the specific downward angle of the beam depends on their distance above the ground. If someone says two degrees is the right angle, but your lights are 18 inches off the ground, you’ll only have light for 43 feet in front of your car. If you have a truck with the lights 36 inches above the ground and set the lights to the same angle, you’ll have light for 86 feet. Likewise, the suggestion that a fixed amount of drop is suitable also fails to compensate for differences in bulb height off the ground.

Have Your Headlights Adjusted for Maximum Safety

When it’s time to have your headlights adjusted, we’ve developed a simple process that makes the adjustment reliable and efficient. Before the technician begins any work, your vehicle must be on level ground with the tires inflated properly. Ideally, whatever combination of driver and passenger(s) is most common to the vehicle’s operation should be inside. Likewise, the fuel tank should be half full. If you have a truck or SUV and carry tools or supplies, have them in the vehicle. You’ll want the ride height to be typical before the measurements begin.

Step 1 – Measure the Cut-off Height

The first step is to establish the level at which the light is produced at the bulb or lens. With the vehicle appropriately loaded (as outlined above), measure from the ground to the top of the light cut-off pattern as close as possible to the headlight lens. Note this measurement for each side of the vehicle, as it may not sit perfectly parallel to the ground.

This process requires that the lights are already aimed relatively accurately. If you’ve had new projectors or bulbs installed, your tech will need to make sure the light pattern is relatively close to accurate. If a light is pointing at the sky, the remainder of the measurements will be inaccurate. They should be within a few degrees of horizontal.

Headlight Aiming
This photo shows a typical beam pattern for a modern headlight system.

Step 2 – Measure the Cut-off at 25 feet

The next step is to measure the height of that headlight cut-off at a distance of 25 feet in front of the lights. Use the same reference point used for the first measurement to set this distance. For example, if the tech measured the at-vehicle height 4 inches in front of the headlight lens, he or she should measure out 24 feet and 4 inches for this second measurement.

Step 3 – Use the Chart

Using the chart below, your technician can determine how high the cut-off should be above the ground for the distance you want to illuminate. If you drive exclusively in the city, then the 125-foot distance will work well. If you drive in the country, the extra distance afforded by using the 175-foot measurement is a better choice.

Headlight Aiming
Using this chart eliminates the need for any calculations and allows your technician to aim your headlights for maximum performance and safety.

Step 4 – Adjust the Lights

Most modern vehicles have simple adjustments for vertical and horizontal alignment built into the light assembly. In most cases, a long screwdriver is all that’s required to raise or lower the light aiming to achieve the correct cut-off height.

Headlight Aiming
With a quick look at a resource like ProDemand, your technician can quickly and easily determine the headlight adjustments for your vehicle.

The next step is for the technician to adjust the lights so that the drop at the 25-foot mark matches the chart. As long as both lights are close to each other in height, your technician can fine-tune the adjustment by lowering whichever light is higher so that the top of the cut-off is in line with the output pattern of the other light.

Horizontal Headlight Adjustment

If work has been done to the vehicle or the light assemblies, then your tech may need to adjust the horizontal adjustment to make sure both lights are aimed forward and that the hot spots from each light are spaced apart by the same distance as the bulbs in the vehicle. It’s crucial to make sure the lights are pointed straight ahead and not off to the left or right.

Drive Safely with Proper Lighting

There are a multitude of options to upgrade the lights in your car or truck. High-performance halogen, LED and HID bulbs can improve the capabilities of mediocre factory lighting systems. Once you’ve had these light upgrades aimed properly, you’ll be able to see farther and drive more safely. Your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer can likely help you with a complete lighting solution that includes proper pattern alignment.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Lighting

Sound Deadening Strategies Help Create a Quiet Ride

Deadening Strategies

We all know that having sound deadening installed in your car or truck is a great way to improve its comfort while allowing your stereo upgrades to sound better. In this article, we’ll look at some of the strategies for adding sound deadening. We’ll talk about different areas of the vehicle and the benefits associated with treating those surfaces. Based on this, you can decide how to get as much value and performance from a damping material investment.

Why Add Sound Deadening

Sound deadening comes in several solutions. For this article, we will focus on what’s known as constrained-layer damping (CLD). In short, these are sheets of dense butyl rubber that are bonded to a flexible layer of aluminum. The CLD is intended to be applied to your vehicle’s metal panels to add mass and reduce the panels’ ability to vibrate and transmit sound from outside the car or truck to the interior.

Sound deadening can be applied to almost any surface to help prevent noise from the engine, exhaust, transmission, tires or wind from getting into the vehicle.

Some damping materials like SoundShield add a layer of closed-cell foam to the aluminum layer for additional energy absorption. This foam also reduces the chances of wiring harnesses or door actuator rods from rattling and making noise as you drive.

Sound Deadening Car Doors

One of the most dramatic upgrades you can make to your vehicle’s comfort is to have the doors treated with sound deadening. Here, two approaches offer different benefits. The outer door skin, the one you see when you look at your car or truck from outside the vehicle, is a large and relatively flat surface. If you tap on it, you can feel that the metal is somewhat flimsy. Having damping material added to the back of this panel will dramatically reduce noise transfer. Since you sit close to the door, the results are quite noticeable.

Deadening Strategies
Drive Customs in San Luis Obispo, California, added a layer of deadening material to the outer panel of this awesome 1966 Ford F-250 pickup truck.

The second surface that can benefit from deadening is the inner door skin. This is the metal you’d see when the technician working on your car or truck removes the plastic trim panel from the interior side. This is another large surface and is often very flat.

Aside from keeping road noise out of the interior, sealing the door skin can have a dramatic effect on the performance of a door-mounted speaker. Typically, large openings in the metal allow access to the window regulator (the mechanism that raises and lowers the window), the door handle and the latch parts. Left open, the sound coming from the back of the speaker will mix with the sound coming from the front and cancel. Sealing these openings will dramatically improve lower midrange and bass performance from the audio system. This increase in output means your technician can reduce the power sent to the speaker so it will last longer. Likewise, a reduction in how hard a woofer has to work will reduce distortion and improve clarity.

Deadening Strategies
Perfectionist Autosound and Security in Anchorage, Alaska, sealed and damped the inner door skin of this Toyota Tundra pickup truck.

Floor and Firewall Deadening

Modern vehicles are designed using computers to deliver a balance of strength and weight to make the vehicle drive well. Most automakers work hard to save every ounce so that fuel economy is optimized. You’d be surprised how much noise from the engine and transmission comes into the vehicle through the firewall and floor. Of course, the answer is to have these surfaces treated with high-quality deadening material. The process does require some significant work to remove the center console, seats and carpet, but it’s well worth the investment.

Deadening Strategies
Mobile Toys in College Station, Texas, created a custom kick-panel speaker mounting location in the kick panel area of this vehicle. The floor, firewall and speaker mounting surface were all treated with sound deadening material.
Deadening Strategies
Define Concepts in Orange, California, treated the floor of this Mustang known as Disgustang. The upgrades include a custom audio system from David Freiburger of Hot Rod Magazine and Roadkill fame.

Pickup Truck Noise Control

The back wall of a pickup truck is another surface that can transmit a lot of sound energy into a vehicle. Though it’s blocked from wind noise, it still transmits drivetrain, exhaust and tire noise. Treating the back wall is a great way to improve the comfort of these vehicles.

Deadening Strategies
Perfectionist Autosound and Security removed the interior of this Chevy SS pickup truck so that they could thoroughly treat it with sound deadening.

Sound Deaden Your Vehicle’s Roof

Easily the biggest and probably the flattest panel in a vehicle is the roof. Whether you have a short-cab pickup or an SUV with 40 square feet of metal, wind noise will transfer into the vehicle through this flat surface. Having the roof liner removed can take some time, but the effort is worth the expense to improve your vehicle’s background noise level. With microphones for Bluetooth hands-free systems typically installed up high in the car, cutting down on noise will dramatically enhance an outgoing phone call’s clarity.

Deadening Strategies
The team at Andre’s Electronic Experts in Courtenay, British Columbia, treated the roof of this classic Mustang with a layer of sound deadening before the interior went in.

Trunk and Cargo Area Sound Control

If you have a car with a trunk, especially if you are having subwoofers installed there, controlling panel vibration and rattles will make a huge improvement to the performance of your audio system. Likewise, road noise and sound energy from the exhaust system will be reduced by treating the floor, fenders and hatch or trunk lid.

Deadening Strategies
Perfectionist Autosound and Security treated the trunk floor, wheel wells, fenders and trunk lid of this classic Dodge Challenger to a thorough layer of SoundShield sound deadening material.

Picking the Right Deadening Material

As you can see, different areas of the vehicle need to be upgraded for different reasons and with different results. What remains constant, no matter where your technician is working, is the need to use high-quality materials. On surfaces that are vertical or where the deadening will be installed upside-down, proper surface preparation is paramount, and using a product with excellent adhesion qualities is a must. Avoid deadening that is bitumen- or asphalt-based as they can soften and come loose in high-heat conditions.

You’ll want to choose a shop and technician with the experience and training to remove the interior components of your vehicle in a way that prevents any potential damage and ensures that the vehicle can be reassembled properly once the work is complete. The last thing you want is to have clips or brackets that are loose, resulting in more noise added to the interior as you drive.

Having sound deadening installed in your car or truck is one of the best upgrades you can make to the vehicle’s comfort and your audio system’s clarity. Reducing background noise will make the subtleties of your music easier to discern. Likewise, if you have a hands-free Bluetooth system, the outgoing audio quality will be clearer. Drop by your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today to inquire about having sound deadening installed in your car or truck.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Car Audio

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