Upgrading Your Classic Car Technology For Safety and Convenience

While modern vehicle features such as lane departure warning systems and adaptive cruise control aren’t available for your classic car or hot rod, there are modern technologies available for your pride and joy. These will make your next cruise or car show much safer and more enjoyable. Let’s take a look at how classic car technology improvements can benefit your classic car without making it look like a spaceship or Knight Rider.

Backup and Parking Camera Systems

Most new cars come with a backup camera. These camera systems display an image of what is behind your vehicle as soon as the transmission is in reverse gear. If your vehicle has limited rearward visibility, a camera system can prevent accidents and damage with a minimal investment.
These compact cameras are available in flush-mount, surface mount and license plate mount solutions. The cameras are quite small and are available in black and chrome finishes. Integrating a camera into your classic vehicle isn’t hard. More importantly, they do not require any permanent modification to your ride.
A camera system requires a monitor of some kind. If you have chosen an aftermarket radio solution with a color LCD screen, displaying the camera image is very easy. If the interior of your classic vehicle looks like it just rolled off the factory floor, a qualified mobile enhancement retailer can work with you to develop a custom monitor solution. Perhaps the most common option in these applications is a new rearview mirror with an integrated screen. With a little work, one of these mirrors can be incorporated into a solution that looks like your factory mirror.

Forward Facing Camera and Parking Sensor Solutions

Just as with the backup cameras, mobile enhancement retailers can incorporate a forward-facing camera into the front of your vehicle. These cameras are perfect for avoiding parking curbs and getting nice and close the garage wall at home. Integrating the secondary forward-facing camera into a backup camera system is easy.
Another option is a parking sensor system. Solutions like the Curb Alert Pro can prevent scratches to your bumper or air dam by alerting you when you are getting close to the curb. This system uses a compact sensor that mounts low on your vehicle. As you approach an object, the system emits a series of beeps to let you know you are getting close to it. The speed of the beeps increases as you get closer and closer.

Vehicle Convenience Solutions

Classic Car Technology — Kits like this assembly from Year One can upgrade manual crank windows to power.

Integrating modern technologies like power door locks, power trunk release and power windows into a classic car are relatively simple options. Switches inside the vehicle can control these features, or you can choose to integrate them into the remote control from a car alarm to keep the vehicle looking stock. In modern cars, these functions are often electronically-controlled from the factory and only require some wiring and relays to make them part of a security system. In an older vehicle where these systems are mechanical, actuators and solenoids are available. The same goes for power windows. There are many kits available to power the factory crank system. If your windows aren’t running as smoothly as they should, new regulators are available from companies like Year One, LMC Truck and Classic Industries.
If you live in an area that is cool in the spring and fall, an aftermarket seat heater system is a great way to add comfort to your vehicle. We can integrate these heating panels into a bench or bucket seats with minimal effort. Most systems include a high/low switch to let you choose the warmth level.

Radar Detector and Laser Defense Systems

You don’t need to be partaking in One Lap of America, The Cannonball Run or The Hot Rod Power Tour to be concerned about getting a speeding ticket. A run to the grocery store for burgers or a quick trip to the parts store for a gasket can be just as harrowing. Modern radar detectors have come a long way from the days of the lunchbox-sized units of the 1980s and 1990s. In fact, a modern custom-installed radar detector can be invisible. The radar receiver fits comfortably behind your front grille. Controlling the system can be accomplished using a smartphone, an IR remote control or by a compact keypad. Alerts are provided audibly, letting you know what kind of radar is in use and how strong the signal is.
Laser speed guns used to be infallible citation. However, now there are many options available to combat these systems by transmitting a distorted laser signal until you can ensure you are traveling at a legal speed. These compact transmitters are smaller than a deck of cards. They can fit in front grilles or air inlets.

Sound Deadening Reduces Noise and Adds Comfort

Perhaps one of the most popular upgrades for a classic car or hot rod is to install sound deadening. Sound deadening is available in several different materials. The most common are butyl rubber, mass-loaded vinyl and lead. Each serves to absorb sound energy to help make the interior of your vehicle quieter. The sound deadening material can be applied to the floor, roof, interior or exterior door and quarter panels, the trunk lid and on firewalls.
Very few classic vehicles include air conditioning and unless you are cruising on the Interstate, the interior can get quite hot. If you have a high-power engine and a large-diameter exhaust system, keeping the interior of your vehicle comfortable can be even more challenging. Most sound deadening materials also include a layer of aluminum to help prevent the transmission of heat into the vehicle interior. A layer of sound deadening can make a dramatic difference to the comfort of your vehicle. There are also several spray-on sound deadening and thermal control solutions available. Drop into your local mobile enhancement retailer to find the best solution for your application.

Classic Car Technology Add Comfort, Convenience and Safety

If your classic car or hot rod could use a little help from some modern features and functions, drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer. They can offer you a lot more than just audio system upgrades.
This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Are Classic Car Audio Amplifiers Better?

If you’ve been in the audio industry for a while, then you’ve likely heard that old-school or classic car audio amplifiers are better than the new stuff. How someone quantifies “better” is somewhat of personal preference. They could be talking about aesthetics or the sound of the product. Whatever it is people like about classic audio equipment, buying and selling vintage audio equipment is big business. Here’s a little story a good friend told us about dealing with a pair of older amps.
A while back, a friend dropped off a pair of truly classic car audio amplifiers. We had an Orion Concept 97-3 and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 700X on the bench to check out. The plan was to see how much power the amps made, take some frequency response and distortion measurements and ensure that they would be working properly. Sadly, the Orion almost self-destructed on power-up, and the Rockford had a lot of distortion. Not what we were hoping for, or really, what we expected. So, let’s take a look at each amp, what happened and why.

Orion Concept 97-3

The Concept 97-3 was an amplifier released in 1998 as a giant middle finger to the controversy surrounding amplifiers’ ratings in SPL competition. With the proliferation of “cheater amps,” Orion chose to rate the massive Concept 97-3 at 0.5 watts per channel into a 4-ohm load at 12 volts. Their goal of forcing IASCA, USCA and dB Drag Racing to change the way amps are rated was a foregone conclusion.

Orion on the Bench

We started with the massive Orion amp. We set it up, connected it to our 160 amp power supply and turned it on. Even with no speakers or signal connected, the amp was drawing an incredible 86 amps of current. We shut it down quickly and started looking for problems. Now, we’ll make it clear: We are not a repair shop; we test and quantify the performance of products. So, the plan to fix an amp was a bit outlandish but seemed like a lot of fun!
After about four sessions of measuring resistances and voltages with the help of several industry veterans, we found a shorted output device and a pair of shorted driver transistors. We chose to replace all the output devices to make sure everything was fresh.

Vintage Means Old

We encountered a few issues along the way. The circuit board clamps to a finned heat sink that fits inside the visible shroud. This secondary heat sink is what makes these amps so tall. The output and switching devices have thermally conductive tape on either side of them to remove heat efficiently. The first problem was that the tape had deteriorated and dried out. Surely this would affect its ability to transfer heat efficiently. Another problem was that the tape glued the devices to the heat sink and clamping bracket. When we tried to remove the bracket, several of the devices ripped apart.
The second major issue with the Orion surfaced after we finished fixing it. Once we had the amp up and running reliably, we set it up to take some power measurements. The Concept managed to make 207 watts on the left channel and 208.7 watts on the right, and 738.4 watts when bridged into a 4-ohm load. The next step was to measure frequency response and distortion. This is where things went weird. The amp was oscillating above 1 kHz. As we mentioned, we aren’t a repair shop. Sure, we could chase the signal through the amp and find the problem, but we have other projects lined up.

Rockford Fosgate Punch 700X

The Punch 700X is four-channel amp that was conservatively rated at 87.3 watts per channel and debuted around 2002. On the bench, the Rockford seemed to work well. No strange noises from the power supply, and the output seemed reasonable. Tested individually so as not to tax the power supply, we eked out more than 275 watts per channel into a 2-ohm load, according to our D’Amore Engineering AMM-1 in Dyno Power mode.
We decided to take a look at the frequency response of the amp, so we performed a few high-resolution sweeps using our digital interface and the Room EQ Wizard software. While not a disaster, it does roll off on the top and bottom. Referenced to the peak output at 650 Hz, the amp was down 0.8 dB at 20Hz and 1.27 dB at 20kHz. Not enough to be a problem, but measurable. For reference, most quality amps are flat within a dB from around 10Hz to more than 40kHz.

The next step was to measure distortion. We recently upgraded our digital interface to ensure the measurements we take are of the device under test, and not artifacts of our hardware. The new interface measures flat from 5 Hz to 92 kHz, has a signal to noise ratio of -116dBA and a total harmonic distortion specification of less than 0.00032 percent. We always calibrate the interface before each test.
We took a few distortion sweeps of the 700X, and much to our chagrin, it’s a disaster. Second order harmonic distortion at a drive level of 2V (1 watt into 4 ohms) was around 5 percent to 6 percent on all channels.

Old and Wrinkled

As we were moving the amp around to change connections, we noticed a rattle. A few taps and some shaking revealed that the power supply output caps seemed loose internally. We ordered up eight new Nichicon 4700uF, 50V caps and swapped them out.
As curious as we are, we decided to pry open one of the caps for a look. As you can see, the top of the cap is swollen and it appears the electrolyte has dried up. We hooked two of the caps up to our capacitance tester for some sleuthing. Both caps have a rating of 4700uF at 50V. The first measured 2024 uF and the second cap measured 2012 uF. By comparison, the new Nichicon caps all tested around 4800 to 4900 uF. That’s 40 percent of the desired energy storage and filtering capacity. Not good news at all.
Once the amp was back together, we measured it again. Steady state power production and frequency response were the same. We hadn’t taken any dynamic power tests beforehand, so we had no reference against which to measure after the replacement.

Thermal Compound Deterioration

As we were taking the amplifier circuit board out of the heat sink, it quickly became apparent that the thermal compound used to help wick heat away from the power supply and output switching devices had dried up. No doubt, it wasn’t serving any beneficial purpose. We scraped it off, cleaned up the heat sink and devices, then applied new compound before we put the amp back together.

Let Bygones Be Bygones

So, with two truly classic amps failing, is there anything we can discern from this? We invested more than $200 in parts and supplies to repair these amps. In terms of time, well, we likely spent 20 to 25 hours testing, diagnosing and repairing. Someone who fixes amps for a living would be much faster, but you’d still be looking at several hundred dollars per amp to bring them to this point. Eliminating the remaining distortion and frequency response problems may or may not even be possible. By the way, another friend dropped off a Precision Power PC225 to check out. It blew up. Power supply switching devices went boom. Ugh.
The experience has highlighted that electronics truly don’t last forever. The dried-out power supply caps are the tip of the iceberg for the Rockford. Every electrolytic cap on the board should be swapped out. The Orion was filthy inside and required a thorough cleaning. Maybe dirty EQ or mono switches were responsible for the strange frequency response issues? Maybe some of the caps on this amp had dried out as well? The PPI? No idea what its problem is.

Classic Car Audio Amplifiers Might Be Best as Memories

If we were looking for an amp to power our mobile audio system, something old would not be on our list. Sure, maybe they sounded great when they were new, but time has taken its toll. Could they be restored? Absolutely! The circuit boards are in great shape. Is it worth it? If you have a sentimental attachment, go ahead. If you think they these old clunkers will outperform a new design, based on our hands-on experience, that’s not very likely. If you want an amp that sounds amazing, just buy a new one. Your local mobile enhancement retailer would be happy to help you choose something with outstanding sound.
This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Apple CarPlay Entertainment Options Expanded

iPhone users are excited by the news that Tidal and SiriusXM are now part-compatible with Apple CarPlay. These subscription-based music services add to the extensive entertainment selections already available for control by using your voice. Let’s take a close look at these new Apple CarPlay entertainment options.

What is Tidal?

In similar fashion to Google Play Music and Apple Music, Tidal is a music streaming service with a catalog of almost 50 million songs. Tidal has differentiated itself by claiming to pay the highest royalties to artists and rights owners. (Before you rush out to sign a record deal, keep in mind that artists get about 10% of the income paid to the owners of master copies and the publishers/record companies).

Tidal emphasizes its commitment to creating and supporting a sustainable music industry at every opportunity. Well-known performers listed as artist-owners on their website include Alicia Keys, Arcade Fire’s Win Butler and Regine Chassagne, Beyoncé, Calvin Harris, Coldplay’s Chris Martin, Daft Punk, Damian Marley, deadmau5, Indochine, J. Cole, Jack White, Jason Aldean, Shawn “JAY Z” Carter, Kanye West, Lil Wayne, Madonna, Nicki Minaj, Rihanna, T.I., and Usher. You can see all of the information at HERE if you want more details.

What Does Tidal Cost?

Tidal offers two levels of service. The Premium service costs $9.99 a month and provides users with access to Tidal’s song, music video and editorial content. The HiFi subscription chimes in at $19.99 a month and delivers audio in uncompressed, CD-quality FLAC formats as well as 50,000 tracks from Warner Music Group in Master Quality Authenticated (MQA) formats. There is some debate about the true benefit of MQA, but you can be confident that both FLAC CD-Quality and MQA formats far exceed what you are used to hearing from conventional streaming services.

With the addition of Tidal to the CarPlay family, you can now enjoy your music with dramatically improved sound quality and access your favorite music by simply asking for it.

SiriusXM Radio on Apple CarPlay

SiriusXM shouldn’t be new to mobile audio enthusiasts. All of the key source unit manufacturers offer SiriusXM compatibility on their premium source unit options, and most automakers include SXM receivers in their mid- and top-trim level vehicles. With more than 140 channels of genre-specific entertainment and coverage for most of North America, SiriusXM allows music enthusiasts to enjoy programming in extremely remote areas.

The addition of SiriusXM Radio to the CarPlay family is more about functionality and integration than about service. A satellite-based subscription or streaming subscription has a base price of $15.99 per month. If you have a satellite-based subscription, you can add streaming access for $4 per month.

To be clear, the addition of SiriusXM Radio to the CarPlay family does not mean you can control your hardware-based satellite radio receiver.

Why Choose SiriusXM Radio?

Just as with other applications, the benefit of being part of the CarPlay family is in the safety of the interface. If you want to listen to Howard Stern, get play-by-play from the big game or listen to your favorite music, all you have to do is ask.

Communicate and Be Entertained Safely with CarPlay

If your vehicle doesn’t already have Apple CarPlay, drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer and check out the wide variety of multimedia receivers available. Be sure to bring along your iPhone so you can see just how easy, intuitive and safe Apple CarPlay is.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

The OEM Audio Upgrade Path

Years ago, when someone wanted to make their car stereo system sound better, they bought a new radio. With the complexity of modern infotainment systems, upgrading your radio isn’t always possible. So, what’s a music enthusiast to do? As it turns out, the radio is the least of your worries – unless, of course, it happens to be broken. Read on to find out more about our tried-and-true OEM audio upgrade path.

The Weakest Link

What is it about factory stereos that enthusiasts don’t like? Ask most of them, and they’ll tell you that the system doesn’t play loudly enough and that it doesn’t produce enough bass. Rather than muck around with expensive source units and complicated integration modules, why not simply address the weak points?

Step 1: Add a Subwoofer

OEM Audio Upgrade — Vehicle specific enclosures like this Stealthbox from JL Audio take up minimal space and sound much better than a factory subwoofer.

Subwoofers get a bad rap. The stereotype is that they are very large and are only good for making mirrors shake and the trunk lid vibrate. The reality is that a subwoofer is a fundamental component of a truly great-sounding audio system upgrade. Even in a Mustang or Corvette with 8- or 10-inch door speakers, adding a properly designed subwoofer system will result in a massive improvement.

Before you get hung up on losing your storage space to a subwoofer system, there are many options for extremely compact solutions that take up little to no room at all. Several companies offer compact powered woofers that will fit under a seat. These solutions can warm up your sound system nicely.

The next step up in performance would be an enclosure that places a sub in an existing storage area. Many companies offer vehicle-specific solutions that use fiberglass or roto-molded plastic enclosures. Some of these solutions include an amplifier and vehicle-specific wiring that makes the installation quick and easy. These systems typically feature an eight- or 10-inch subwoofer. The result is solid low-frequency extension and great output up to moderately loud listening levels.

If you are searching for the epitome of subwoofer performance, your local mobile enhancement retailer can create an enclosure that is specific to your vehicle and your requirements. From an audiophile-grade single sub in a compact sealed enclosure to something with two or more high-excursion drivers in a large vented cabinet – your choice depends on your expectations. Listen to a few systems and decide what’s right for you.

Step 2: Add an Amplifier

We’ve addressed the bottom few octaves of our system with the subwoofer. The next step is to add an amplifier to the midrange and high-frequency speakers. If your factory stereo doesn’t have an amplifier, then you are likely only getting 18 to 20 watts of real power to each speaker. Even a modestly powered amplifier will provide about three times as much power. With more power, your stereo will sound better at higher volumes. The garbled distortion that plagues most factory stereo systems when you turn up the volume will be gone.

Because most amplifiers include an electronic crossover, your installer can filter out the bass from your smaller speakers. This filtering allows your small speakers to do a much better job of reproducing midrange and high frequencies – both clearer and louder.

I’d Like to Order the Combo, Please

If you know your ultimate goal for your sound system will include a subwoofer and an amplifier for the speakers, you may want to consider buying a five-channel amplifier. These amplifiers include four discrete channels for your front and rear speakers and a high-power channel dedicated to powering a subwoofer. By combining your amplification requirements into a single chassis, your installer will be able to install it faster, and you won’t need any power distribution components.

Step 3: Upgrade Your Speakers

Once you have an amplifier, it’s time to upgrade your speakers. Though there are arguments for a speaker upgrade as an early part of the process, speakers need amplifier power to shine. Connecting a set of components to the little amplifier built into a radio simply doesn’t do them justice.

Premium aftermarket speakers not only provide smoother frequency response and less distortion than OEM speakers, but their increased excursion capabilities will allow them to play louder – but only when they have adequate power.

Choosing a set of speakers can be very difficult. There are thousands of options available from hundreds of manufacturers. Most retailers carry one or two high-end brands, each with a variety of options in each speaker size. While it is often easier to buy well-known brands, many companies put more effort into marketing than they do into developing speakers that sound amazing. We suggest auditioning as many speakers as possible, using the same selection of music each time. After a while, it’ll be easy to hear the difference between a great speaker and one that is marketed well.

Installation Matters

Unlike a new Bluetooth speaker from the local big box store, the performance of your mobile sound system depends significantly on its installation and configuration. Amplifiers require properly sized high-quality wiring. Electrical connections need to be mechanically secure and properly protected. Speaker installation has a dramatic effect on their performance. Solid mounting adapters that are water-resistant are an absolute must. The option to add sound damping material to the doors or foam coupling rings to the front of the speakers is also a sign that the shop you are dealing with cares about the performance of your system.

Amplifiers need proper configuration. Each source has different voltage capabilities. These voltage capabilities determine how the sensitivity controls on your installer will configure your amplifier, and ultimately, how loud the system will play without significant distortion. Crossovers need to be set properly to protect small speakers from damage while still ensuring your system sounds great. Many technicians make the process look easy, but it takes years to learn the art of proficient system configuration.

The Next Steps

Though we’ll save it for a future article, the next step in upgrading your OEM stereo system would be to add a digital signal processor. A properly tuned processor will allow your installer to compensate for speaker placement and reflections and resonances within the vehicle. The result is smooth and natural frequency response and a dramatically improved soundstage with impressive imaging.

Upgrade Your OEM Stereo System Today

If you are tired of distorted sound and wimpy bass, drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer and ask about upgrading your sound system. With a carefully planned upgrade path, you can work towards whatever goal suits your requirements in stages. Each stage will provide an audible and impressive upgrade. With each step, your music will sound more lifelike and realistic. It will truly be a case of having heard your favorite songs for the first time, all over again.
This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Vehicle Security Systems Explained

Wee-ooh, wee-ooh, honk, honk, honk, beep, beep, beep … Ah, the sweet melody of the modern car alarm. Vehicle security is big business. If you are worried about someone stealing your vehicle, visit your local mobile enhancement retailer and ask about a properly designed and installed vehicle security system. Before you head out the door, let’s take a look at the options for security systems and sensors, and talk about the importance of proper installation to ensure your car remains where you left it.

The Classic Car Alarm

In most cases, a handheld remote control, also known as a key fob, will control your car alarm. These remotes use radio frequency signals to communicate with the control module in the vehicle. When you want to arm the alarm, press the Lock button on the remote and the system will respond almost instantly.

Remotes are available in many different styles. The simplest include a single button that toggles arming and disarming functions. A slightly more-elaborate remote may include dedicated locking, unlocking, trunk release and auxiliary output buttons. Many alarms are integrated with a remote car starter or vice versa. In these systems, one of the buttons on the remote is typically dedicated to starting the vehicle.

The Purpose of a Vehicle Security System

Quite simply, the purpose of an alarm is to monitor your vehicle for attempted theft or vandalism. When the system detects a trigger from a particular zone or sensor, it activates a loud siren. Depending on your vehicle, you can opt to have the horn honk and the parking lights flash when the alarm goes off.

That infamous blinking red or blue LED in your dash is an indication to would-be thieves that you have taken measures to protect your vehicle and belongings. The knowledge that there is an alarm in the vehicle may be an adequate deterrent that convinces a thief to move on to a different target.

Remote Car Starter Functions

We mentioned that security systems are a popular option for a remote car starter. Some manufacturers offer a separate remote starter, security and hybrid (remote starter and security) systems. Other companies have designed their remote starters to accept a siren and shock sensor as options. This modular approach allows you to upgrade the system at any time.

Zones of Protection

Modern security systems are capable of monitoring several zones or sensors simultaneously. For example, your alarm will be connected to your door’s pin wires. These same wires signal the dome light to turn on when a door is open. If the system detects a door is open, it will trigger the alarm instantly.

Many security systems include separate inputs for hood and trunk monitoring. Your installer may choose to use a pin switch on the hood or trunk, or a mercury switch. If your vehicle has factory monitoring for the hood or trunk, those connections are often compatible with an aftermarket security system.

Every car alarm includes some form of shock sensor to detect abrupt impacts to the vehicle. There are many different designs for shock sensors. Some shock sensors work by suspending a small metal bead beside an inductor on a spring or rubber strap. Both allow the bead to move independently of the sensor housing. When the bead moves due to a shock or vibration, it induces a current in the inductor. The included circuitry determines the amplitude of the motion and decides if it should trigger the alarm.

Another method of monitoring shock and vibration is a digital accelerometer. The accelerometer communicates with the microcomputer in the shock sensor to provide information about vehicle movement. A benefit of this type of sensor is that it is almost impervious to changes in temperature. Most automotive-grade accelerometers function reliably from -40 to over 220 degrees with no noticeable change in accuracy.

Most security systems provide two levels of notification based on the signal from the shock sensor. A gentle tap on the vehicle will produce a warning that the vehicle is protected by a security system. This warning is usually in the form of a sequence of short chirps from the siren. The intent is for thieves to move on to a vehicle without extra protection. Of course, a sharp impact will trigger the alarm right away.

Optional Security Sensors

Many sensors are available to enhance the performance and coverage capabilities of a car alarm. Tilt-and-motion sensors can detect subtle changes in the angle of the vehicle to trigger the alarm. These are a great option if you want to protect a nice set of wheels or are worried about someone jacking up the vehicle to steal your catalytic converter.

Glass-breakage sensors include a microphone and signal processing that is tuned to listen for the sound of a hard object hitting the glass. A firm tap with a key or coin is often enough to trigger these sensors.

Radar or field disturbance sensors are another popular option. These devices set up a radio-frequency field around the sensor. When an object moves into or out of the field, the alarm will trigger. These sensors are ideal for convertible vehicles and Jeeps where the interior is accessible without setting off a shock or motion sensor. The size of the field is adjustable, so your installer can work with you to decide the appropriate amount of coverage. Keep in mind that false alarms are very annoying.

Convenience Features

The most-popular convenience feature is door lock control. This feature is standard on almost all alarm systems. When you arm the alarm, the doors lock. Not surprisingly, the doors unlock when you disarm the alarm. Remote trunk release is another popular convenience feature. Most security systems have a dedicated trunk release output that automatically disables the shock sensor or disarms the alarm just before the trunk or hatch opens. If you don’t have a power trunk release, a solenoid can be added to most vehicles to mimic the function of the key.

Power window, sunroof and power sliding door control are also options. A great example of power window control would be to roll the windows up as soon as the system is armed. If you have a van with a power tailgate or a car with a motorized trunk, controlling it remotely is also a possibility.

The Importance of Proper Installation

Vehicle Security — Mobile Edge shows us what a securely hidden, expertly wired alarm brain looks like.

Just as with the installation of a remote starter, how a car alarm is integrated into your vehicle can have a dramatic effect on its performance and reliability.

Many new vehicles use computerized data networks to control and monitor functions. Door lock control, door and hood status (open or closed), factory alarm system control, and even horn activation are all done digitally through a vehicle integration module. These modules need to be configured by your installer for the specific make, model, year and trim level of your vehicle before installation.

Any electrical connections required to install your alarm have to be planned and executed carefully. An installer who would simply cut the starter wire under the dash and install a starter-cut relay has effectively labeled one of the connections a thief would need to hotwire a car. Hot-wiring a vehicle is nearly impossible on modern vehicles because most keys include a factory-installed security or immobilizer system. With that said, the placement of modules, sensors and relays shouldn’t attract attention to themselves. If they aren’t concealed properly, a thief has a much easier time bypassing your security system.

All wiring should be neat and tidy. All connections should be both mechanically secure and electrically conductive. Using harness wrapping materials like cloth tape, vinyl tape or split loom tubing that matches the factory wiring is a great way for your installer to conceal the security system.

Factory Security Systems

If you are looking at a new-car brochure, you will see that the wording chosen to describe the factory “alarm” has been picked very judiciously. Let’s look at a few examples. The Ford Focus includes a “Passive Anti-Theft Engine Immobilizer System,” the Honda Civic has an “Immobilizer Theft Deterrent System” and, finally, the Toyota Camry has an “Anti-theft System with Alarm.” The Camry brochure goes on to describe how the system works: “When you insert your key into the ignition switch or bring a Smart Key fob into the vehicle, the key transmits an electronic code to the vehicle. The engine will only start if the code in the transponder chip inside the key/fob matches the code in the vehicle’s immobilizer.”

Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it? Sadly, it isn’t hard to duplicate the code from those transponder chips. After all, if you lose your key or fob, there has to be a way to replace it. The hardware to clone a key can be acquired for around $100. You will also note that there is no mention of damage prevention or protection. Very few, if any, factory security systems include a shock sensor.

If your aftermarket security system includes a starter disable system, even with the factory key or fob, the vehicle will not start without disarming the alarm.

Preventing Vehicle Theft

The cold, hard fact is that anyone with a flatbed can pull up in front of your vehicle, throw a hook around the frame and drag it onto the flatbed. In a minute, even with an alarm sounding, your car could be gone. An important aspect of ensuring your vehicle is safe is communication. If you know someone is tampering with your vehicle, you can look out the window to see what’s going on and call the police, if necessary. (Please don’t run out the door yelling and screaming – you don’t know if they have any weapons.)

Remote key fobs that can receive signals from the vehicle are a great option. When your alarm triggers, your key fob will vibrate and buzz to let you know something is going on.

The next level of communication is a two-way cellular communication device. If your alarm triggers, your smartphone will notify you almost instantly. With cellular communication, there are no limits to the distance between you and your vehicle – you will always get alerts when something happens. These telematics systems also include the ability to lock and unlock the vehicle from the application on your phone.

Protect Your Vehicle

We could go on for days talking about the intricacies and details of automotive security systems. If you are concerned about vandalism or theft, visit your local mobile enhancement retailer to talk about adding an alarm system to your vehicle. They can suggest a solution that provides the coverage and features you want to keep your pride and joy safe and secure.