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The OEM Audio Upgrade Path

OEM Audio UpgradeYears ago, when someone wanted to make their car stereo system sound better, they bought a new radio. With the complexity of modern infotainment systems, upgrading your radio isn’t always possible. So, what’s a music enthusiast to do? As it turns out, the radio is the least of your worries – unless, of course, it happens to be broken. Read on to find out more about our tried-and-true OEM audio upgrade path.

The Weakest Link

What is it about factory stereos that enthusiasts don’t like? Ask most of them, and they’ll tell you that the system doesn’t play loudly enough and that it doesn’t produce enough bass. Rather than muck around with expensive source units and complicated integration modules, why not simply address the weak points?

Step 1: Add a Subwoofer

OEM Audio Upgrade
Vehicle specific enclosures like this Stealthbox from JL Audio take up minimal space and sound much better than a factory subwoofer.

Subwoofers get a bad rap. The stereotype is that they are very large and are only good for making mirrors shake and the trunk lid vibrate. The reality is that a subwoofer is a fundamental component of a truly great-sounding audio system upgrade. Even in a Mustang or Corvette with 8- or 10-inch door speakers, adding a properly designed subwoofer system will result in a massive improvement.

Before you get hung up on losing your storage space to a subwoofer system, there are many options for extremely compact solutions that take up little to no room at all. Several companies offer compact powered woofers that will fit under a seat. These solutions can warm up your sound system nicely.

The next step up in performance would be an enclosure that places a sub in an existing storage area. Many companies offer vehicle-specific solutions that use fiberglass or roto-molded plastic enclosures. Some of these solutions include an amplifier and vehicle-specific wiring that makes the installation quick and easy. These systems typically feature an eight- or 10-inch subwoofer. The result is solid low-frequency extension and great output up to moderately loud listening levels.

If you are searching for the epitome of subwoofer performance, your local mobile enhancement retailer can create an enclosure that is specific to your vehicle and your requirements. From an audiophile-grade single sub in a compact sealed enclosure to something with two or more high-excursion drivers in a large vented cabinet – your choice depends on your expectations. Listen to a few systems and decide what’s right for you.

Step 2: Add an Amplifier

We’ve addressed the bottom few octaves of our system with the subwoofer. The next step is to add an amplifier to the midrange and high-frequency speakers. If your factory stereo doesn’t have an amplifier, then you are likely only getting 18 to 20 watts of real power to each speaker. Even a modestly powered amplifier will provide about three times as much power. With more power, your stereo will sound better at higher volumes. The garbled distortion that plagues most factory stereo systems when you turn up the volume will be gone.

Because most amplifiers include an electronic crossover, your installer can filter out the bass from your smaller speakers. This filtering allows your small speakers to do a much better job of reproducing midrange and high frequencies – both clearer and louder.

I’d Like to Order the Combo, Please

OEM Audio Upgrade
This Kenwood eXcelon XR900-5 can power an entire system.

If you know your ultimate goal for your sound system will include a subwoofer and an amplifier for the speakers, you may want to consider buying a five-channel amplifier. These amplifiers include four discrete channels for your front and rear speakers and a high-power channel dedicated to powering a subwoofer. By combining your amplification requirements into a single chassis, your installer will be able to install it faster, and you won’t need any power distribution components.

Step 3: Upgrade Your Speakers

OEM Audio Upgrade
The Audiofrog midrange driver offers significant improvement over factory speakers of its size.

Once you have an amplifier, it’s time to upgrade your speakers. Though there are arguments for a speaker upgrade as an early part of the process, speakers need amplifier power to shine. Connecting a set of components to the little amplifier built into a radio simply doesn’t do them justice.

Premium aftermarket speakers not only provide smoother frequency response and less distortion than OEM speakers, but their increased excursion capabilities will allow them to play louder – but only when they have adequate power.

Choosing a set of speakers can be very difficult. There are thousands of options available from hundreds of manufacturers. Most retailers carry one or two high-end brands, each with a variety of options in each speaker size. While it is often easier to buy well-known brands, many companies put more effort into marketing than they do into developing speakers that sound amazing. We suggest auditioning as many speakers as possible, using the same selection of music each time. After a while, it’ll be easy to hear the difference between a great speaker and one that is marketed well.

Installation Matters

OEM Audio Upgrade
This speaker installation by Adrenaline Autosound depicts best practices in speaker installation.

Unlike a new Bluetooth speaker from the local big box store, the performance of your mobile sound system depends significantly on its installation and configuration. Amplifiers require properly sized high-quality wiring. Electrical connections need to be mechanically secure and properly protected. Speaker installation has a dramatic effect on their performance. Solid mounting adapters that are water-resistant are an absolute must. The option to add sound damping material to the doors or foam coupling rings to the front of the speakers is also a sign that the shop you are dealing with cares about the performance of your system.

Amplifiers need proper configuration. Each source has different voltage capabilities. These voltage capabilities determine how the sensitivity controls on your installer will configure your amplifier, and ultimately, how loud the system will play without significant distortion. Crossovers need to be set properly to protect small speakers from damage while still ensuring your system sounds great. Many technicians make the process look easy, but it takes years to learn the art of proficient system configuration.

The Next Steps

OEM Audio Upgrade
Mosconi processors are some of the best in class.

Though we’ll save it for a future article, the next step in upgrading your OEM stereo system would be to add a digital signal processor. A properly tuned processor will allow your installer to compensate for speaker placement and reflections and resonances within the vehicle. The result is smooth and natural frequency response and a dramatically improved soundstage with impressive imaging.

Upgrade Your OEM Stereo System Today

If you are tired of distorted sound and wimpy bass, drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer and ask about upgrading your sound system. With a carefully planned upgrade path, you can work towards whatever goal suits your requirements in stages. Each stage will provide an audible and impressive upgrade. With each step, your music will sound more lifelike and realistic. It will truly be a case of having heard your favorite songs for the first time, all over again.
This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Vehicle Security Systems Explained

Vehicle SecurityWee-ooh, wee-ooh, honk, honk, honk, beep, beep, beep … Ah, the sweet melody of the modern car alarm. Vehicle security is big business. If you are worried about someone stealing your vehicle, visit your local mobile enhancement retailer and ask about a properly designed and installed vehicle security system. Before you head out the door, let’s take a look at the options for security systems and sensors, and talk about the importance of proper installation to ensure your car remains where you left it.

The Classic Car Alarm

Vehicle SecurityIn most cases, a handheld remote control, also known as a key fob, will control your car alarm. These remotes use radio frequency signals to communicate with the control module in the vehicle. When you want to arm the alarm, press the Lock button on the remote and the system will respond almost instantly.

Remotes are available in many different styles. The simplest include a single button that toggles arming and disarming functions. A slightly more-elaborate remote may include dedicated locking, unlocking, trunk release and auxiliary output buttons. Many alarms are integrated with a remote car starter or vice versa. In these systems, one of the buttons on the remote is typically dedicated to starting the vehicle.

The Purpose of a Vehicle Security System

Quite simply, the purpose of an alarm is to monitor your vehicle for attempted theft or vandalism. When the system detects a trigger from a particular zone or sensor, it activates a loud siren. Depending on your vehicle, you can opt to have the horn honk and the parking lights flash when the alarm goes off.

That infamous blinking red or blue LED in your dash is an indication to would-be thieves that you have taken measures to protect your vehicle and belongings. The knowledge that there is an alarm in the vehicle may be an adequate deterrent that convinces a thief to move on to a different target.

Remote Car Starter Functions

We mentioned that security systems are a popular option for a remote car starter. Some manufacturers offer a separate remote starter, security and hybrid (remote starter and security) systems. Other companies have designed their remote starters to accept a siren and shock sensor as options. This modular approach allows you to upgrade the system at any time.

Zones of Protection

Modern security systems are capable of monitoring several zones or sensors simultaneously. For example, your alarm will be connected to your door’s pin wires. These same wires signal the dome light to turn on when a door is open. If the system detects a door is open, it will trigger the alarm instantly.

Many security systems include separate inputs for hood and trunk monitoring. Your installer may choose to use a pin switch on the hood or trunk, or a mercury switch. If your vehicle has factory monitoring for the hood or trunk, those connections are often compatible with an aftermarket security system.

Vehicle SecurityEvery car alarm includes some form of shock sensor to detect abrupt impacts to the vehicle. There are many different designs for shock sensors. Some shock sensors work by suspending a small metal bead beside an inductor on a spring or rubber strap. Both allow the bead to move independently of the sensor housing. When the bead moves due to a shock or vibration, it induces a current in the inductor. The included circuitry determines the amplitude of the motion and decides if it should trigger the alarm.

Another method of monitoring shock and vibration is a digital accelerometer. The accelerometer communicates with the microcomputer in the shock sensor to provide information about vehicle movement. A benefit of this type of sensor is that it is almost impervious to changes in temperature. Most automotive-grade accelerometers function reliably from -40 to over 220 degrees with no noticeable change in accuracy.

Most security systems provide two levels of notification based on the signal from the shock sensor. A gentle tap on the vehicle will produce a warning that the vehicle is protected by a security system. This warning is usually in the form of a sequence of short chirps from the siren. The intent is for thieves to move on to a vehicle without extra protection. Of course, a sharp impact will trigger the alarm right away.

Optional Security Sensors

Many sensors are available to enhance the performance and coverage capabilities of a car alarm. Tilt-and-motion sensors can detect subtle changes in the angle of the vehicle to trigger the alarm. These are a great option if you want to protect a nice set of wheels or are worried about someone jacking up the vehicle to steal your catalytic converter.

Vehicle SecurityGlass-breakage sensors include a microphone and signal processing that is tuned to listen for the sound of a hard object hitting the glass. A firm tap with a key or coin is often enough to trigger these sensors.

Radar or field disturbance sensors are another popular option. These devices set up a radio-frequency field around the sensor. When an object moves into or out of the field, the alarm will trigger. These sensors are ideal for convertible vehicles and Jeeps where the interior is accessible without setting off a shock or motion sensor. The size of the field is adjustable, so your installer can work with you to decide the appropriate amount of coverage. Keep in mind that false alarms are very annoying.

Convenience Features

The most-popular convenience feature is door lock control. This feature is standard on almost all alarm systems. When you arm the alarm, the doors lock. Not surprisingly, the doors unlock when you disarm the alarm. Remote trunk release is another popular convenience feature. Most security systems have a dedicated trunk release output that automatically disables the shock sensor or disarms the alarm just before the trunk or hatch opens. If you don’t have a power trunk release, a solenoid can be added to most vehicles to mimic the function of the key.

Power window, sunroof and power sliding door control are also options. A great example of power window control would be to roll the windows up as soon as the system is armed. If you have a van with a power tailgate or a car with a motorized trunk, controlling it remotely is also a possibility.

The Importance of Proper Installation

Vehicle Security
Mobile Edge shows us what a securely hidden, expertly wired alarm brain looks like.

Just as with the installation of a remote starter, how a car alarm is integrated into your vehicle can have a dramatic effect on its performance and reliability.

Many new vehicles use computerized data networks to control and monitor functions. Door lock control, door and hood status (open or closed), factory alarm system control, and even horn activation are all done digitally through a vehicle integration module. These modules need to be configured by your installer for the specific make, model, year and trim level of your vehicle before installation.

Any electrical connections required to install your alarm have to be planned and executed carefully. An installer who would simply cut the starter wire under the dash and install a starter-cut relay has effectively labeled one of the connections a thief would need to hotwire a car. Hot-wiring a vehicle is nearly impossible on modern vehicles because most keys include a factory-installed security or immobilizer system. With that said, the placement of modules, sensors and relays shouldn’t attract attention to themselves. If they aren’t concealed properly, a thief has a much easier time bypassing your security system.

All wiring should be neat and tidy. All connections should be both mechanically secure and electrically conductive. Using harness wrapping materials like cloth tape, vinyl tape or split loom tubing that matches the factory wiring is a great way for your installer to conceal the security system.

Factory Security Systems

If you are looking at a new-car brochure, you will see that the wording chosen to describe the factory “alarm” has been picked very judiciously. Let’s look at a few examples. The Ford Focus includes a “Passive Anti-Theft Engine Immobilizer System,” the Honda Civic has an “Immobilizer Theft Deterrent System” and, finally, the Toyota Camry has an “Anti-theft System with Alarm.” The Camry brochure goes on to describe how the system works: “When you insert your key into the ignition switch or bring a Smart Key fob into the vehicle, the key transmits an electronic code to the vehicle. The engine will only start if the code in the transponder chip inside the key/fob matches the code in the vehicle’s immobilizer.”

Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it? Sadly, it isn’t hard to duplicate the code from those transponder chips. After all, if you lose your key or fob, there has to be a way to replace it. The hardware to clone a key can be acquired for around $100. You will also note that there is no mention of damage prevention or protection. Very few, if any, factory security systems include a shock sensor.

If your aftermarket security system includes a starter disable system, even with the factory key or fob, the vehicle will not start without disarming the alarm.

Preventing Vehicle Theft

Vehicle SecurityThe cold, hard fact is that anyone with a flatbed can pull up in front of your vehicle, throw a hook around the frame and drag it onto the flatbed. In a minute, even with an alarm sounding, your car could be gone. An important aspect of ensuring your vehicle is safe is communication. If you know someone is tampering with your vehicle, you can look out the window to see what’s going on and call the police, if necessary. (Please don’t run out the door yelling and screaming – you don’t know if they have any weapons.)

Remote key fobs that can receive signals from the vehicle are a great option. When your alarm triggers, your key fob will vibrate and buzz to let you know something is going on.

The next level of communication is a two-way cellular communication device. If your alarm triggers, your smartphone will notify you almost instantly. With cellular communication, there are no limits to the distance between you and your vehicle – you will always get alerts when something happens. These telematics systems also include the ability to lock and unlock the vehicle from the application on your phone.

Protect Your Vehicle

We could go on for days talking about the intricacies and details of automotive security systems. If you are concerned about vandalism or theft, visit your local mobile enhancement retailer to talk about adding an alarm system to your vehicle. They can suggest a solution that provides the coverage and features you want to keep your pride and joy safe and secure.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: RESOURCE LIBRARY, ARTICLES, Vehicle Security

But the Box Power Ratings Say This Subwoofer Will Handle 1,000 Watts!

Power RatingsThere is no car audio topic more confusing and inconsistent than speaker power ratings. The fact is, the methods developed to test speakers are quite simple and reliable. If the speaker passes the test, print the number.

A long time ago, some unknown manufacturer felt it was important to tell consumers that their speaker would handle more power than a competitor’s product. We are talking about the Lear Jet, Jensen and Muntz days, not five or 10 years ago. Whoever that company was, printed a bigger number on their packaging and told their customers that their speaker was better because of it. Of course, competitors followed suit and countered this slightly bogus claim with an even more ridiculous rating. On and on this goes. We currently have 6×9 speakers that claim to handle 600 watts but have a tiny little 1-inch voice coil. The math simply doesn’t add up.

In this article, we are going to talk about speaker power ratings. We’ll explain what the ratings mean and how they are tested. When you are done reading this article, you’ll never look at a bogus MAXIMUM POWER specification the same way.

What is Power?

Power RatingsPower is a unit of energy that describes how much work is done over a specific period. We car guys know about horsepower and torque, and since you are reading this, you clearly have an interest in audio systems and have heard of the electrical unit of power known as the watt. By definition, 1 watt of power is equivalent to 1 joule of energy delivered over a period of one second. In terms you may be more familiar with, that’s equivalent to the work done in a circuit powered by 1 volt where 1 amp of current is flowing through the load. Exciting, isn’t it?

In our speakers, the power from our amplifier flows through the voice coil. The flow of electrons through the coil creates a magnetic field around the coil. Depending on the polarity (direction) of the current flow, the magnetic field may cause the coil and the attached cone to move forward or backward in the basket. As the signal coming out of our amplifier is alternating current, the speaker responds by moving back and forth with the changes in polarity.

What Happens When We Have Too Much Power?

Power RatingsThe electrical power from our amplifier is no different from the electricity that flows through an electric heating element on a stovetop. The heating element has a resistance, usually between 27 and 40 ohms. As we apply the 120v electrical signal from the wall to this coil of wire, work is done. For a 27 ohm coil, fed with 120 volts of electricity, 533 watts of work is produced. This “work” is the generation of heat.

When we send 100 watts of power to a speaker, almost all of that energy is converted to heat. Maybe 2 or 3 percent of that energy from the amp is converted to sound energy. Hopefully, you can see where this is going. When current flows through the voice coil, it gets hot. More current produces more heat. Eventually, the glue that holds the voice coil winding to the former starts to overheat and fail. At this point, the voice coil winding will likely unravel and usually gets jammed in the magnet gap, causing the speaker to stop playing.

As an aside, we could get into an entire discussion about power handling problems caused by excessive cone travel. For the purposes of this article, let’s assume we are operating the speaker within a frequency range where cone excursion is not an issue. We’ll talk about speaker excursion another time.

The Reference for Power Ratings

The current reference for testing automotive loudspeakers is the CEA-2031 standard. This set of test criteria include how and where the speaker under test is mounted and the content of the signal used to test the speaker. It is this audio signal, and how it is used, that is of interest to this article.

The power handling test track is a modified pink noise signal that is bandwidth limited between 40Hz and 10 kHz. The high-frequency content of the signal simulates the spectral content of a distorted bass or midrange signal. That’s right: If you distort a low-frequency signal, it creates harmonics. As such, you will send lots of extra midrange and high-frequency information to your speaker if the amp is clipping.

The CEA-2031 signal is recorded with very specific amplitude specifications. The test track is prefaced by a reference-level sound recording. In order to quantify the power level of the test, the reference signal is played and the amplitude is measured. On the engineering side, power tests are taken at RMS voltage levels. That voltage is converted to watts, based on the minimum impedance of the driver under test. For example, efficiency measurements are taken using voltages of 2 or 2.83 volts, which translate to 1 or 2 watts respectively on a 4-ohm speaker.

How They Test Power Handling

Power RatingsOnce the reference level is set, the test tone is played without making adjustments to the playback amplitude. The test track is designed to provide two simultaneous tests. The RMS voltage level of the track tests the speaker’s continuous power handling capabilities. The peak amplitude of the signal simultaneously tests the peak power handling of the speaker with an additional 3dB of input power.

The device under test (speaker) is placed in a jig in a room with controlled environmental conditions. “The loudspeaker is rated for the power that it can withstand for 2 hours without a permanent change in acoustical, mechanical or electrical characteristics greater than 10%,” according to the specification. To achieve a higher rating, the test is to be repeated at a higher power level for the same time after a two-hour cool-down period.

Many companies test their products for longer. A lot of Japanese companies test their speakers for eight to 10 hours. Some premium speaker companies test their speakers for an awe-inspiring 100 hours. That’s right – more than four days playing this modified pink noise track.

There are variations of this test. For subwoofers, mounting the drivers in a sealed enclosure will increase the difficulty of the test dramatically. The air inside the enclosure will get hot and reduce the ability for the subwoofer to cool itself.

Where Do the Big Numbers Come From?

So, how can the marketing guys sleep at night with their insane power rating claims? We mentioned that physical power handling could be a concern. Of course, playing bass into a tweeter is going to result in disaster, quickly. Would playing a single tone for a period of time determine a power handling rating? What if a speaker can handle a 500 Hz tone for a few hours? Is that a power rating? Most certainly. Does it accurately describe the capabilities of the speaker? Not really.

Choosing Speakers for Your Vehicle

Power RatingsSo, now that you know how speaker power ratings are created, you can basically ignore them. The process of choosing a speaker should be based on performance, not specifications. Frequency response, efficiency and distortion performance separate good from run-of-the-mill. A speaker rated for 150 watts is not necessarily better than a speaker rated at 125 watts.

If you are buying subwoofers, power handling specs become a little more important. You won’t want to pair up a subwoofer rated for 200 watts to a 1,000-watt amplifier. If you want to keep things safe, match the subwoofer power rating to the amp rating. If you want to guarantee you’ll never blow the sub, buy a speaker that is rated for twice as much power as your amp.

Your local mobile enhancement retailer can help you design an audio system upgrade that sounds amazing, will play at the volumes you want and will last for years.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, Classic Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Safer Nighttime Driving Tips

Night DrivingYour lighting system remains the most important safety component of your vehicle once the sun sets. If you can’t see objects around you, or far enough ahead of you, the chances of having a serious accident are significant and the outcome could be deadly. Ensuring proper night vision is the most important aspect of driving after sunset. Follow along as we learn about lighting and explore some nighttime driving tips.

Headlight Components and Modifications

Nighttime Driving TipsThere are many options for improving how far you can see at night. Upgraded headlight bulbs and new headlight assemblies are the most popular. If you are fanatical about your lighting, you may want to look into a headlight retrofit. The retrofit process involves taking the headlight assembly apart and installing new projectors, and often new HID bulbs and ballasts.

When it comes to light assembly upgrades, too many times, people choose something that looks good or adds a little style to their vehicle. Halo rings and LED strips look cool, but don’t forget to focus on sheer performance. A proper beam pattern and efficient light production are what keep you safe.

Auxiliary Lighting Upgrades

Nighttime Driving TipsChoosing a set of auxiliary lights is a great way to increase the distance you can see. Many companies offer high-quality LED lights that your mobile enhancement retailer can integrate into your vehicle.

Be careful, though – not all lighting is legal to use on public roads. Those cool 54-inch curved LED light bars are amazing when you decide to head out on the trails after dark, but they may not be legal for use around town. Check the laws in your area before you purchase. If you want to be sure your upgrade is legal, look for DOT or SAE approval on the light assembly. When installed properly, these lighting systems won’t blind oncoming drivers.

Eight Tips to Improve Night Vision while Driving

Let’s face it: The only time we need our lighting system is after the sun sets. Upgrading bulbs, lenses and light assemblies go a long way to ensuring we are safe. There are several other things you can do to ensure you can see as far as possible. Here are eight things you can do to improve your night vision. Most of them are completely free!

1 – Make sure your lights are perfectly aimed

If you get flashed by oncoming drivers, see the leaves in the trees above your car or can’t see very far, the first step is to ensure your lights are aimed properly. Seek out the expertise of a local mobile enhancement retailer that specializes in lighting upgrades for help with the alignment process.

2 – Turn down the dash lights

Nighttime Driving TipsWhen the lights on your dash are bright, the irises of your eyes will contract to reduce the amount of light that enters them. While this works great for balancing the brightness of lighting in the vehicle, it can work against your ability to see for long distances. If you keep the interior dark, you can see farther.

3 – Turn off your fog lights

Your fog lights cause a situation similar to overly bright dash lighting. If the area directly in front of your vehicle is bright, your eyes will adjust to that light level and reduce how far you can see. A properly designed lighting system should provide balanced foreground and long-distance light.

4 – Keep those lenses in good shape

Nighttime Driving TipsIf the plastic lenses on your headlights are yellowing or chalky, they will reduce the amount of light that gets from the bulb to the road. Many high-quality lens restoration kits are available that can restore lens clarity and improve visibility.

5 – Keep your windshield clean

It only makes sense that being able to see out of your vehicle is going to improve your ability to drive safely at night. Use a high-quality glass cleaner and a lint-free cloth or microfiber towel to keep the interior of the windshield clean. A great trick for getting rid of stubborn, oily film that builds up over time is to use newspaper and your favorite window cleaner to wipe the windows. The newspaper won’t leave any lint.

Keep the outside of your windshield clean as well. If a cloth or cleaner won’t remove everything, you can escalate to a clay bar or even 0000 steel wool. Just keep the steel wool away from the trim.

6 – Be careful where you look

Nighttime Driving TipsWhen a car is coming toward you, try not to look into the light. In the same way that bright dash lights cause your irises to close, so too will oncoming headlights. Some advanced driver training courses even suggest closing one eye. We suggest trying to focus ahead of your vehicle.

7 – Be prepared for rain

Few things are worse than trying to drive at night while it’s raining. Ensure your wiper blades are in excellent condition and aren’t leaving streaks. If they are, you can try cleaning the edges with a little isopropyl alcohol and a soft cloth. The next step is to simply replace your wiper blades – they don’t last forever.

Treating your windshield with a high-quality hydrophobic window treatment like Aquapel, Opti-Glass or Rain-X will help water bead up and roll off your windows without your having to use your wiper blades at all.

8 – Take care of your eyes

Nighttime Driving TipsEat your carrots! OK, well, eat whatever you want, but don’t look at the sun or a solar eclipse. Make sure you wear high-quality sunglasses to prevent macular degeneration from UV exposure. Wear “computer glasses” if you are going to be staring at a monitor all day. If you are working with power tools or in risky situations, wear safety glasses or goggles. Most importantly, visit an optometrist regularly to stay on top of your eye health.

Drive Safely

Combining the above tips with a properly aimed, high-quality lighting system can dramatically increase your safety, and the safety of those around you. If you are interested in upgrading your lighting system or adding more lights, drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer and talk to them about your needs.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Lighting, RESOURCE LIBRARY

A Quick Look at Apple and Android Smartphones

Apple and Android SmartphonesLooking back to the Palm Pilot and the original Blackberry, we have been on a constant path toward having full-blown computers with us at all times. Fast-forward a few decades and it’s rare that folks don’t have a smartphone in their pocket or purse. Apple and Android smartphones have changed the way we communicate and are entertained.

In the mobile electronics industry, we have been working hard to find ways to integrate your smartphone into your vehicle to help you safely communicate and listen to your music. Dive into any discussion about smartphones on Facebook, and you’ll quickly see it turn into a battle of which kind is better. As each device changes, seemingly by the hour, answering that question is nearly impossible. With that said, there are definitely benefits and drawbacks to each. Let’s look at some cold, hard facts about the Android and iOS operating systems and their associated hardware.

A Brief History of the iPhone

Launched in the summer of 2007 by Steve Jobs, the iPhone was touted as a game-changer in communication technology. Apple retains a unique advantage over Android-based smartphones in that it controls not only the hardware chosen for the device but the software as well. The iOS operating system is designed and tested to work together with the iPhone.

iPhone Complaints

Apple and Android SmartphonesWhat company doesn’t have haters? People either love the iPhone for iOS for its interface, associated software and approved hardware accessory devices or hate it for its monopolistic approach. Few people like having to use iTunes to load their music and the cost of MFI (Made for iPhone/iPod) approved cables and devices definitely raises their cost.

Is there a benefit? Definitely. When you buy an approved accessory, you know it will work. When you transfer music, you know it will play. You may lose some of the independence of doing what you want when you want, how you want, but the infrastructure exists to make owning and using an iPhone as trouble-free as possible.

Apple is often criticized by Android users for being late to the party with new features: “Oh, you added facial recognition to the iPhone X and wireless charging to the iPhone 8! That’s great, Android phones had that last year.” Maybe it takes longer for Apple to test these technologies. Maybe the development and testing time for each new phone takes a lot longer. We may never know, but it sure is nice when the features arrive and work flawlessly.

iPhone in the Car

Apple and Android SmartphonesApple led the automotive smartphone connectivity battle with CarPlay. CarPlay was launched at the Geneva Motor Show in 2014 with Ferrari, Mercedes-Benz and Volvo as its first automotive partners. CarPlay offers an interface that mimics the icon layout on the phone to make using the system intuitive.

CarPlay allows users to use the Siri voice recognition engine to perform tasks like listening to text messages, making phone calls, selecting music and choosing navigation destinations. You don’t have to look at the screen at all to initiate any of those tasks.

With Apple under control of the CarPlay software, both OEM and aftermarket infotainment system manufacturers need to send samples to Apple for testing and approval before they can be sold. Apple works at its own pace, and we know this can cause delays. Are they worth it? If the system works the way it should, then most definitely.

Android-Based Smartphones

Apple and Android SmartphonesDeveloped by Google, the Android mobile operating system started development in 2005 and was launched in 2007. At the same time, the Open Handset Alliance – a consortium of hardware, software and telecommunication companies – was launched to advance open standards for mobile devices. The goal of the Open Handset Alliance was to create an open competitor to Symbian, Blackberry OS and iOS-powered devices. The first Android-based device was the T-Mobile G1, developed by HTC and launched in September 2008.

A fun fact about Android is its naming convention for each major release. While this practice is not uncommon, the names are rarely shared with the public. In order, the code names have been Cupcake, Donut, Eclair, Froyo, Gingerbread, Honeycomb, Ice Cream Sandwich, Jelly Bean, KitKat, Lollipop, Marshmallow, Nougat and, most recently, Oreo. Clearly, the Android development team has a snacking issue.

Is Free Good?

Apple and Android SmartphonesAs we stated, the Android mobile operating system is released by Google under an open source license. This means that phone manufacturers don’t need to buy or license the operating system. This can reduce development costs and accelerate the focus on new technology.

As with most things, for every silver lining, there is a dark storm cloud nearby. With phone manufacturers like Samsung, Huawei, LG, Sony and HTC each creating their own hardware and implementation of the Android operating system, updates for each device are at the mercy of the manufacturer and the wireless carriers. With Android about to roll out Version 8.1.0, not every device will get an upgrade.

In May 2017, coinciding with the launch of Android 8.0, Google announced Project Treble with a goal to streamline and simplify the update process for Android-powered devices. Only time will tell how successful they are.

Is Easy Good?

If you want to put a few songs on your Android phone, connect the USB cable to your computer, and drag the files to the Music folder. You can manage the files on your computer however you want, or not at all – if that’s your cup of tea. Similar folders exist for Pictures, Podcasts, Ringtones and Movies. You can treat them the same way you would a USB memory stick.

When Apple announced the iPod would move from Firewire to USB, radio manufacturers were quick to adopt interfaces that would allow control playback of the songs on the device in the car. This adoption took a lot longer for Android, and even up until last year, some source units could not play music stored on an Android phone by simply connecting the USB cable.

Bluetooth Problems

Apple and Android SmartphonesWith Apple and Android smartphones, Bluetooth connectivity is a big issue. Almost everyone has a Bluetooth hands-free solution in their car, so being able to use your phone with it is crucial to your productivity. Apple hasn’t been flawless in terms of backward compatibility to older source units, but for the most part, they seem to work well. Android, on the other hand, has been plagued with connectivity issues that vary by the phone manufacturer. Several aftermarket radio manufacturers cringe when dealers or consumers call about Bluetooth issues from specific brands.

Imagine if you update your smartphone and you can no longer connect to your vehicle’s hands-free system. With Apple, you can complain at the Apple Store or log into their support website. Though they won’t admit it outright, they pay attention to these issues and in many cases, fixes are released in updates.

If you own an Android-based phone, whom do you call when something doesn’t work? The store you bought the phone from? Your carrier? The manufacturer? Google? Simultaneously, each of them and none of them are singly responsible for the issue, nor can any one of them directly help you find a solution. Sure, there are exceptions, but with the open source philosophy of Android, connectivity with third-party devices is a lot more variable.

Android in the Car

Apple and Android Smartphones Android Auto was announced in 2014 as a joint effort between 28 automobile manufacturers. The actual Android Auto app was released on March 19, 2015; in May 2015, the Hyundai Sonata became the first vehicle to offer Android Auto support. Android Auto offers similar functionality to CarPlay, but eschews the menu-driven foundation and provides information about the function you are using on the screen. Voice commands and features work similarly to CarPlay.

Android Auto has an advantage over CarPlay with Google Maps and Waze. Both of these navigation solutions are considered superior to Apple Maps. You will find that many Apple users, unless they are using CarPlay, use the iOS versions of Waze and Google maps for their navigation needs.

Which Phone is Better?

Apple and Android SmartphonesOur goal isn’t to determine a winner in the battle of Apple and Android smartphones – that’s up to each individual user. If you use Macintosh-based computers at home, you may see no better option than to choose an iPhone. If you like the freedom of Android open architecture, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that.

Integration for Apple and Android Smartphones

No matter which phone technology you use, your local mobile enhancement retailer can help you integrate your phone into your vehicle. CarPlay, Android Auto, wireless charging, audio streaming, hands-free calling solutions or even a custom mounting bracket are available for most vehicles. Drop by and see how they can make using your smartphone in your car safer and easier.

Steve Jobs photo by Ben Stanfield (https://www.flickr.com/photos/acaben/541326656/) [CC BY-SA 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, RESOURCE LIBRARY, Smartphone Integration

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