Have you ever purchased something, then regretted your decision a few days later? We recently ran into a situation regarding car audio subwoofer amplifiers where the answer to “Which is better?” became a complicated discussion.

We’re going to look at two amplifiers – one is a consumer-grade product that’s extremely popular, the other seems to offer too much bang for your buck but might be well-suited to applications where short play times are acceptable. We’ll be clear: If you’re building an SPL competition system, it’s likely that the majority of what we are going to discuss won’t apply to you. In those instances, power and efficiency are pretty much the only specs worth examining. For those who live with their stereos every day, choosing a reliable amplifier that adds minimal distortion or noise to their music is crucial.

The Contestants

A friend at a local car audio shop called and asked for an opinion about a new line of amplifiers being offered to his store. It’s worth a proper examination in every situation like this, rather than guessing about the product’s performance. Thankfully, we have the BestCarAudio.com Test Drive lab at our disposal. We dropped by the shop to pick up the sample amplifier and brought home the amp that’s usually in the store owner’s car.

For this comparison, the reference amplifier is an ARC Audio XDi 650.1. This amp is rated to produce 650 watts into a 1-ohm load and includes a wired remote level control. Physically, the amp has a footprint of roughly 9 by 6.25 inches and stands only 2.16 inches tall. For the power it produces, the size is compact and convenient.

In this case, the sample amplifier is a high-power subwoofer amplifier that is rated to produce over 2,000 watts into a 4-ohm load and over 3,000 watts into a 2-ohm load. The chassis is just under 9 by 7.5 inches in size, and the amp stands at just under 3 inches tall. That’s a pretty small package for something that claims to make that much power.

Physical Layout Affects Installation Options

OK, let’s talk about the layout of the connections and controls on these amplifiers.

The ARC Audio has power, signal, speaker connections, fuses and remote-level control jacks along the amp’s bottom edge. As such, your installer can place multiple amplifiers side by side in your vehicle to create an elaborate audio system. The crossover adjustments, infrasonic filter, bass boost and sensitivity control are accessible from the top of the amp. The ARC Audio badge in the top-center of the amp can be installed facing in any of four positions to increase installation options while keeping things looking great.

The challenger amplifier has power connections on one side and speaker and signal connections on the other. There’s no way to mount these amplifiers side by side. The signal processing controls and the jack for the optional remote level control are on the right side. Once installed, the tech will need to get very close to the amp to see the controls to make adjustments. There are no fuses on this amp, so an external fuse needs to be added, which will increase the installation cost. At almost 3 inches in height, it’s also unlikely this amp would fit under the seat of most cars on the road today.

Score: ARC Audio 1, Competitor 0

Power Production

These are subwoofer amplifiers. As such, it’s fundamental that they can make generous amounts of power. We set the XDi up on the bench and wired it to our bank of load resistors configured to present 1 ohm of resistance. With 14.2 volts from our power supplies, the little XDi 650.1 cranked out a beefy 720 watts as measured using our D’Amore Engineering AMM-1 meter.

We wired up the competitor amp to see what this little monster could do. When loaded to 2 ohms, the amp produced an astonishing 1,799.8 watts of power. When connected to the 1-ohm load, the amp went into protection mode right at 1,200 watts of power. We realized afterward that this particular amp isn’t rated for 1-ohm loads. Nevertheless, the remote signal had to be removed for the amp to reset. That level of power is downright impressive from an amplifier so small.

Score: ARC Audio 1, Competitor 1

Efficiency Calculations

It isn’t easy to monitor input and output power simultaneously while trying to measure the maximum output capabilities of an amplifier. To simplify the task, we set the XDi up again and measured efficiency at its rated output level of 650 watts. The ARC was drawing 47 amps of current, and there were 14.2 volts at the terminals. That works out to an efficiency of 96.7% at a specific power output level of 645.3 watts, according to the AMM-1. For the competitor, it turns out it never made its rated 2200+ or 3300+ levels. So, to keep things stable, we measured efficiency at 1,100 watts into 2 ohms – an output level that will keep our power supplies and load resistors happy. We calculated the efficiency to be 85.1%, which is very, very good. This efficiency might have increased a percent or two at full power. The ARC measurement, however, is astonishing.

Score: ARC Audio 2, Competitor 1

Amplifier Frequency Response

Sadly, many consumers think that subwoofer system frequency response isn’t a big deal as it’s “just bass.” For anyone who’s had an audio system upgraded with a digital signal processor, they’ll know that a statement like that couldn’t be further from the truth. Choosing source units, amplifiers, speakers and subwoofers that deliver flat frequency response is the first step in creating a high-quality audio system. We connected both amps to our digital interface and took frequency response measurements with the infrasonic filter set to their lowest frequency, the crossover at the highest frequency and the bass boost controls turned down.

In terms of the XDi amp, the overall bandwidth is on the narrow side. The -3 dB point is 25 Hz on the bottom and about 210 Hz on the top. I’d like to see the bottom end extended a little. Still, for most consumers using vented enclosures, this design will protect the woofers from potential damage due to over-excursion caused by the driver unloading below the tuning frequency. This would have been a conscious decision by the ARC Audio design team.

For our competitor, we see a lot of bandwidth. On the bottom, the -3 dB point is at 6.8 hertz, and we saw 500 Hz on the top. With that said, the dip at 60 Hz and a peak at 45 Hz are troubling. Yes, the amplitude varies by only a half-decibel, but amplifiers should never apply any equalization to the signal unless specifically requested.

We’ll call this a draw and give both amps one point. Score: ARC Audio 3, Competitor 2

Harmonic Distortion Test

Here’s where we step away from the typical measurements and get into the nitty-gritty of what makes one amplifier sound better than another when reproducing music. We set the amps up on the bench and measured the frequency output of each when a 1-volt, 60 Hz test tone was produced. The differences are dramatic!

Looking at the graph generated for the XDi, we see our test signal labeled with marker M0 at a level of 0.74 dB, which is 1.088 volts. The first harmonic at 120 Hz, marked with M1, is at a relative level of -70.33dB for a distortion rating of 0.0318%. That’s good for an efficient subwoofer amplifier.

For our competitor, the results weren’t as good. In fact, they were bad. Very bad. We can see the test stimulus signal at -0.07 dB (0.992 volts) labeled with M0 and the second harmonic (M1) of roughly 180 Hz at a level that’s only -40 dB quieter. That’s a THD specification of 0.995%. This is one of the worst distortion measurements we’ve ever seen on our bench.

Score: ARC Audio 4, Competitor 2

Signal-to-Noise Ratio

An amplifier’s signal-to-noise performance describes the amount of unwanted noise or hiss added to the output signal. In most cases, amplifiers that add noise at a level of -80 dB are considered pretty good. The great amps get up into the -90 dB range. For the XDi amp, the QuantAsylum software provides a measured SNR spec of -84.6 dB. You can see the hash (squiggly yellow lines) down at the bottom, sloping downward from about -100 dB to around -105 by 100 Hz. This is good performance.

Next, we have our competitor. Wow. Just wow. The software specs SNR at 30 dB, and you can see the noise floor sitting at just below -60 dB from 10 to 100 Hz. Once again, this is the worst we’ve ever seen on the bench.

While it’s hard to hear hiss through a subwoofer compared to a tweeter, this is frustratingly bad performance. Chances are, you can feel a subwoofer moving with that much noise. Can we take marks away? I suppose not.

ARC Audio 5, Competitor 2

Amplifier Controls and Adjustments

As we mentioned earlier, the XDi has all the controls on the top panel of the amp. This location makes it easy to adjust once the amp is installed in the vehicle. In contrast, the competitor has the controls on the side. Once installed, the tech would have to either feel around for the adjustment knob or physically get close to the amp to read the labels. We do like that the controls are raised so that they can be adjusted with bare fingers, though; that’s a nice touch.

We noticed with the competitor amp that with the sensitivity control at its lowest setting, the amplifier produced no output – no matter how much signal was applied. For installers who aren’t accustomed to this brand, this design flaw could easily waste a lot of time during the level-setting process.

ARC Audio 6, Competitor 2

Preamp Inputs

The XDi has four RCA jacks along the lower edge panel. Two jacks are inputs, and the others are input and output for use when using the amp in a master or slave configuration. The competitor amp has only one RCA input jack, despite there being two terminals on the side of the amp with the standard red and white labeling. The lower terminal is an output to drive another amp. It’s not hard to imagine someone connecting a second input to the lower terminal. We checked to ensure that both amplifiers used a differential input design to keep noise out of the system. The XDi does; the competitor doesn’t. This isn’t 1988. Speechless.

ARC Audio 7, Competitor 2

Power Connections

Both amplifiers have good quality terminal blocks for power and ground connections; both will accept four-AWG cables. For the XDi amp, it draws about 60 amps of current when pushed hard. That’s a reasonable amount of current for four-AWG cable. The competitor, on the other hand, can draw well over 150 amps of current. That’s a lot more than is recommended for a four-AWG cable. The amp really should have 0-AWG terminals, or you should invest in those little billet adapters that let your installer connect 0-AWG to four-AWG terminals. One hundred fifty amps of current, drawn through 30 feet of high-quality, all-copper four-AWG power cable, will result in a voltage drop of about 1.3 volts. The XDi would only lose about 0.5 volts over the same run in a cable of that size.

ARC Audio 8, Competitor 2

Cooling Design Determines Play Time

Last and certainly not least, we examined the physical design of the amplifiers to evaluate their cooling capabilities. When you drive a subwoofer at high output levels, an amplifier, even as efficient as these, needs to dissipate the heat it generates. The ARC amp uses a small cooling fan that is mounted on the back edge of the amplifier’s vertical heatsink. The fan draws air in from the sides of the amp, then pushes it out the back. There’s a plate behind the finned heatsink that causes the air to flow along the heatsink and out of the amp’s ends to maximize the moving air’s cooling effect.

The competitor amp also has a fan on the side of the amp. It draws air into the case, and it exits out the other side. The airflow path is near the output switching devices but isn’t routed through any part of the heatsink.

We let each amp play at its maximum output level for a few minutes. The ARC reached 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius), and the competitor was a mind-blowing 204.8 degrees Fahrenheit (96 degrees Celsius) in less than three minutes. The chances of this high-power amp overheating due to the heatsink’s small size is a serious concern.

A look inside the XDi amp showed temperature sensors near the output switching devices and the power supply transformer. We couldn’t find any temperature sensing in the competitor amplifier.

A microprocessor controls the fan in the ARC Audio amp. The fan goes to full speed when the amp gets hot and continues to run until it is cool. On the competitor amp, the fan speed seems related to the power being produced by the amp. If you get the amp hot then turn the signal down, the fan slows down. That doesn’t make any sense.

ARC Audio 9, Competitor 2

Factory Stereo Integration Features

If you’re hoping to add one of these amplifiers to the factory-installed radio in your car or truck, then the ARC will be the best choice. The XDi has automatic turn-on detection so that the amp will turn itself on when you turn on the radio. Likewise, it includes a pair of RCA adapter pigtails that can be connected to the speaker wires from the radio or amp to provide a signal. The competitor amp will need an external line-level converter that includes a remote turn-on output.

ARC Audio 10, Competitor 2

Remote Level Control

The XDi 650.1 includes a remote level control. The other amp doesn’t, and we didn’t see a part number listed in the owner’s manual or on the product page on their website.

ARC Audio 11, Competitor 2

Upgrade Your Stereo with a Quality Subwoofer

As we said at the beginning, the right choice of amplifiers for you depends on your application. If all that matters is a three-second burp at an SPL contest, then the choice is crystal clear. If you’re shopping for an amplifier that will sound good and continue to play for hours and hours, the information provided above should make your choice obvious. In terms of power, no, these weren’t equal. With that said, ARC has two larger amplifiers in the X2 family (which replaced XDi). There’s the 1,100-watt X2 1100.1 and the monster X2 2500.1 2,500-watt unit. Both of those amps share the same basic design as the XDi family but add a few more features and updated circuitry.

If your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer isn’t an ARC Audio dealer, similar amplifier solutions such as the JL Audio XD600/1v2 or XD1000/1v2, the Rockford Fosgate P500X1bd or P1000X1bd, the Audison AP F1D, the Hertz ML Power 1, the AudioControl LC-1.800 or the Helix M ONE X would be great options in the same class of amplification. If the power ratings on an amplifier you’re considering seem too good to be true, if the heatsink is tiny or the price seems like too much of a bargain, chances are you’re going to be missing out on some critical features or performance factors. The best amp isn’t always the one that makes the most power.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Reintroduced as 2006 models, the Dodge Charger sedan and Challenger coupe are some of the most popular vehicles to upgrade. Whether your car has a V-6, the popular 5.7-liter V-8 or the tire-smoking supercharged 707 horsepower Hellcat, these cars all look amazing and offer a style not available from anything else on the market. Of course, when it comes to audio system upgrades, remote car starters or lighting enhancements, the options are nearly unlimited. Let’s take a close look at how you can improve or personalize your late-model Charger or Challenger.

Dodge Charger and Challenger Audio Upgrades

Fiat Chrysler Automobiles (the company that owns the Dodge brand and manufactures these cars) has tried many partners to offer their clients seemingly impressive audio system options. Factory-installed systems from Harmon Kardon, Beats and Alpine have delivered various imaging, system clarity and bass output levels. Few can match what true car audio enthusiasts expect to hear. Your local mobile enhancement retailer has options to add premium source units, speakers, amplifiers, signal processors and subwoofers that can dramatically improve the clarity and output capabilities.

For sixth-generation Chargers (2006 through 2010) and 2006 through 2011 Challengers, Dodge had relatively standard stand-alone radio options that were easy to upgrade. Suppose you want a source unit with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, built-in GPS navigation or a way to show the image from a backup camera. In that case, hundreds of high-quality options are available.

The latest generation of Chargers and Challengers have a large touchscreen integrated into the dash that provides audio system, climate control and vehicle configuration options. There’s no way to replace the screen, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make the audio system sound much better. Companies like PAC offer interfaces that will let your installer use the factory-installed source unit to feed audio to upgraded speakers and amplifiers.

Custom Audio Solutions

Of course, there will always be folks who want just a little bit more from their upgrades. Thankfully, there are specialty retailers across the country that can deliver amazing sound systems. Whether you want to feel like you’re sitting at the console of a world-class recording studio or in the middle of a dance club – there’s no end to the options available. Check out some of the amazing upgrades our friends have created for their clients.

Forward and Accent Lighting Upgrades

If you’ve been to any kind of car show, you know that custom lighting is a huge market. Whether you want to improve your visibility at night with a set of high-quality HID or LED upgrade bulbs or want to dress up your car with LED accent lighting, the options are seemingly unlimited. Your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer can help you choose a solution that meets your needs, then install those upgrades so that they’ll be easy to use and function properly.

Remote Starter and Security Options

Of course, if you live somewhere that’s cold in the winter and hot in the summer, investing in a high-quality remote car starter will make getting into your Challenger or Charger more comfortable. If you are concerned about theft or vandalism, security system options are available with shock, motion and tilt sensors integrated into a single module. When you combine these security features with a two-way remote control, you’ll get an audible warning in your home or office if someone is tampering with your vehicle.

For the ultimate in security and convenience, check out the telematics solutions that use an app on your smartphone to let you monitor and control your vehicle. Most of these systems include GPS-based warnings that will let you know if your car has been towed. Drone is also an excellent solution for companies managing a fleet of vehicles. Management and owners can locate any car using the web interface or the DroneMobile app on their Apple or Android smartphone.

Window Tint and Paint Protection Film

Having the windows of your Dodge tinted is not only a great way to improve the look of your vehicle, tint can protect you from the damaging effects of UV rays from the sun. In fact, a premium tint offers protection similar to what you’d get with a lotion sunscreen with an SPF rating of 1,000.

If you live in an area that’s hot during the summer (or year-round like in Arizona), you might want to consider choosing a tint film with infrared heat-rejection properties. These films can block as much as 66% of the heat energy to help keep the interior of your car cooler. Interestingly, not all of these films have to be dark. Companies such as 3M offer films that transmit 70% of visible light yet still block amazing amounts of IR energy.

Having paint protection film installed on your vehicle is a great way to maintain its value. These durable urethane films are applied directly over the paint to absorb impacts from stones, gravel, rocks, sand and bugs so that the paint underneath is protected from chips and scratches. The film is also stain-resistant, making it a great solution for the hood, roof, fenders and trunk to prevent damage from bird droppings, chemical fallout or tree sap. If you happen to take your Charger or Challenger to the track, ask about having the fenders protected with paint film to prevent damage from stones and gravel that might be flung when the vehicle is traveling at high speeds.

Oh, while you’re adding protection to your vehicle, you may want to look at a set of WeatherTech FloorLiner mats. These vehicle-specific mats are constructed from durable synthetic rubber to provide amazing protection from mud, dirt, sand, salt and snow. FloorLiners extend up the sides of the footwells in your vehicle to keep the carpet clean and help maintain the value of your vehicle.

Easy Upholstery Upgrades Add Unique Style

If you want to update or transform your Charger or Challenger’s look, ask your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer about installing a Katzkin Leather upholstery kit. You can choose from dozens of leather and thread color combinations and several patterns to make your vehicle look new or stand out from the crowd. Something as simple as a contrasting colored thread can make your seats look truly custom. If you have a lot of wear and tear, new upholstery is a very reasonable way to help refresh your car’s interior.

Performance Upgrades Make Driving More Fun!

Depending on the shop you’re working with, there’s a nearly endless number of options to wring more power out of your Charger or Challenger. Something simple like a bolt-on exhaust system, a cold air intake or a computer upgrade module can result in 20 or 30 more horsepower and increased torque. Brake and suspension upgrades, along with lightweight wheels and sticky tires, are also very popular. Talk to your retailer about the options available for your application.

Enhance Your Dodge Charger or Challenger Today!

Whether you need a new set of speakers, want to add a subwoofer or are looking to make your Charger or Challenger the center of attention at the next cruise night, start by visiting your local specialty mobile enhancement retailer. They can help you plan an upgrade that will deliver the features, performance or styling you want.

Lead-In Image Credit: Blue lighting upgrades on this Shaker-Edition 2016 Dodge Challenger R/T will make it the center of attention at the next cruise night. Hats off to Perfectionist Autosound and Security for the work and for sharing the photo.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

If you’ve browsed any of the online car audio forums or Facebook groups, you’ve inevitably run across someone asking if you have to upgrade the speaker wire in a vehicle to support a new car audio system. Unlike a sure-fire upgrade like new speakers or adding an amplifier, the answers to the benefits and drawbacks of speaker wire upgrades are far more complicated. Please don’t fret; the BestCarAudio.com team is here to lay it out and get to the bottom of things. Let’s talk about speaker wire upgrades.

Will New Speaker Wire Improve My Car Audio System?

If you’ve ever waded into the mire of online high-end audiophile discussions about speaker wire, then you may have heard that better wire will bring out buried details in your listening experience. The anecdotal evidence seems overwhelming, and some have even applied a level of science to their quest for the Holy Grail of listening experiences. While we’d love to have an extra $10,000 around to experiment with a set of Audioquest William Tell Silver 10-foot speaker cables, we don’t have that kind of spare change lying around. Have we heard a difference between different speaker wires? Yes. Is the investment in high-end speaker wire in a car audio system worthwhile? Not really; larger gains can be had from better system calibration or upgrading to lower-distortion speakers. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t have the shop install new speaker wire. You can simply avoid the $1,000-per-foot stuff.

The Mechanics of Speaker Cables

Several factors need to be considered for a standard or even a high-end mobile audio upgrade when choosing which parts need upgrading. Reliability and predictable performance should be first and foremost in the Product Specialist’s mind when designing the system. A car is not a house or apartment. It moves. It vibrates. It gets hot and cold. It’s hard on every component that’s hurtling down the road at 60 miles an hour.

Many high-end home cables use solid conductors to supposedly eliminate “noise” caused by electronics jumping from strand to strand. Even if that were an audible phenomenon, using a solid conductor in a vehicle is a recipe for disaster. All wiring in a car or truck needs to be flexible so that it won’t work-harden because of vibrations or the flexing that takes place as you open and close a door.

If you do a Google search, you’ll find inquiry after inquiry about Ford Explorers, Honda Civics, Dodge Rams and Chevrolet Silverados with wires broken in the harness between the vehicle and the door. Speakers, power locks, power windows, power mirrors and lighting all fail to work because the wires with few strands work-harden and break.

Dedicated Wiring Ensures Predictable Performance

Many shops around the country include running new speaker wire into car or truck doors anytime they are installing a new set of speakers. Aside from the reliability benefits we outlined above, running new wiring ensures that the system will perform as intended. There’s no chance of a wire-color change that may affect speaker polarity. There’s no chance of a door chime or Bluetooth module interfering with the system operation. Having a wire run directly from the amp to the speaker is a guarantee that you’ll get exactly what you expect from the speaker.

Do Speaker Wires Add Resistance?

Let’s talk about speaker wire and electrical power delivery. It’s an indisputable fact that every conductor has some amount of resistance. Given this information, we will lose some amount of our amplifier’s electrical power as heat in the wire. This loss will reduce the output of the system at the speaker. The question is, how much loss is allowable? The CTA-2015 Mobile Electronics Cabling Standard calls for an allowable loss of 1 dB of output over a conductor’s length. Let’s look at a few contributing factors that complicate the criteria required to evaluate the required conductor size.

First, not all speakers in a mobile audio system will need the same amount of power. Your subwoofers will need the most power. It’s not unreasonable to expect a sub to absorb 100 watts of power from your amp for long periods. If your installer has configured the crossovers in your audio system correctly, you may only need 40 or 50 watts to a midrange driver for it to keep with that sub. If you have a three-way system with dedicated amplifier channels for tweeters, then they may see only a few watts of power, even at high output levels.

Since resistance in a cable is relatively constant (unless you get it really hot), let’s look at the power lost in a 12-AWG cable that’s running from a large monoblock amp to a subwoofer. It would seem reasonable that the total length of the wire (considering that there are two conductors) would be around 12 feet in a typical installation. Good quality, all-copper 12-AWG cable has a maximum resistance of 0.00595 ohm per meter or 0.00181 ohm per foot. So, we’d a total have 0.0218 ohm for our 6-foot run. If we assume the subwoofer has a nominal impedance of 2 ohms, and we are averaging 100 watts of power to the system, we’ll see an average of 7.071 amps of current pass through our conductor. Ohm’s law states that we’ll see a power loss of 1.088 watts in the speaker wire and a reduction in the speaker’s output of 0.04 dB. That’s not very much, and certainly nothing to ever worry about.

What if we had a friend help us install the system instead of going to a professional, and we only had some 18-AWG primary wire to hook up our sub? Now we’d be losing 4.37 watts to our wire. Now we are losing 0.194 dB at the speaker. Still not a big deal, or is it?

Where this jumps to life is at high power levels. If you are a bass-head or are competing in SPL competitions, the amount of power your subwoofers will see can increase dramatically. Let’s bump our example up to 1,000 watts and wire the load to an impedance of 1 ohm and see what happens. Now, our 12-AWG cable loses 10.88 watts of energy but less than 0.05 dB of output. That 18-AWG wire, on the other hand, needs to dissipate 43.7 watts of heat. Aside from the fact that the wire is likely to go up in smoke, our system will be down about 0.2 dB, purely from speaker wire losses. For regular Joes like you and me, good 12-AWG wiring on a sub is fine, and 14- or even 16-AWG cable on a midrange speaker won’t present any issues, ever.

Welcome to the Land of Silly Power Levels

Because I know the odd bass-head will read this article, let’s run the math on some of the silly SPL competition subwoofers. To keep things relatively reasonable, we’ll use an example woofer from Digital Designs. Their Z415 15-inch subwoofer has a continuous power handling rating of 6,000 watts and is available with dual 1-ohm voice coils. For a 12-AWG speaker wire, we’d be losing 261 watts of power into heat in the wire. While 261 watts at a level of 6,000 doesn’t represent much signal loss, it does present a serious issue in terms of the wire melting. Oh, if you wanted to try 18-AWG wire, it’d be 1,050 watts. Heh, heh, that’d go bang like a fuse dead-shorted across battery terminals.

As you can see, the issue isn’t about the loss of signal in the wire. At high power levels, the concern is about the wire catching fire. For a run of 8-AWG cable at a level of 6,000 watts into a 0.5-ohm load, there would be 103 watts of heat in the conductors. If you jump to a 4-AWG cable, you get a more-reasonable 40.82 watts of heat. So, bass-head friends, keep those speaker wire runs short and, when you can, bi-wire the subwoofers to reduce the current in each conductor. The system will be a touch more efficient, and there’s less chance that you’ll need the fire extinguisher.

Should I Have the Speaker Wires in My Vehicle Upgraded?

If you’re concerned about getting the most power possible to your midrange speakers and tweeters, speaker wire isn’t a concern at all. If you want a system that will play reliably for many years, having a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer install high-quality speaker wire constructed with lots of strands is a great choice. Likewise, dedicated speaker-wire runs help ensure that the system won’t be affected by door chime or warning modules. Yes, it costs a little more to have these wires run into your doors, but it’s a small price to pay for long-term reliability.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.