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Automotive Headlight Upgrades – Part 1: Technologies

Headlight Technologies

If you pay attention, you’ll see cars and trucks on the road with white, yellow, blue and even purple headlight bulbs. Whether chosen for style or performance, hundreds, if not thousands, of options are available to upgrade the lighting on your car, truck or motorcycle. Some replacement bulbs look neat, some are brighter, some have unwanted side effects, and some perform poorly. Let’s kick off this series about automotive headlight technologies and upgrades with some history and a look at the different lighting designs used on vehicles.

Headlight Bulb Styles

If you’ve been around the block a few times, you know there are two basic types of headlight bulbs: sealed beam and composite light assemblies. Sealed-beam bulbs were introduced around 1940, providing automakers with a relatively high-performance, all-glass lighting assembly that included the bulb, reflector and lens in a single non-serviceable unit. The vehicle manufacturer only needed a secure mounting and alignment solution to deliver reliable lighting. Some quick research shows that the 2017 Chevrolet Express van was one of the last newly manufactured vehicles to use sealed-beam headlights.

headlight technologies
An example of a Sylvania H6054 Xtravision sealed-beam headlamp.
headlight technologies
The 2017 Chevrolet Express van is among the last new vehicles produced with sealed-beam headlamps. Image: Adrenalinemotors.ca
headlight technologies
The iconic quad headlights of the second-generation Mercury Capri. Image: Hemmings.com

Around 1983, the first composite headlight assemblies began to be implemented in new cars and trucks. These lighting assemblies use three injection-molded plastic pieces to serve as the body, reflector and lens. These lights are typically molded in shapes that flow with the vehicle’s contours. One instant benefit of these designs was that automobile manufacturers could improve vehicle aerodynamics and allow more leeway in vehicle styling.

headlight technologies
If ever there was a vehicle renowned for having massive headlights, it would be the 1986-93 Volvo 240. Image: 240turbo.com
headlight technologies
The instantly recognizable Subaru WRX “bug-eye” headlights found on 2000 through 2002 Subaru Impreza vehicles. Image: aprperformance.com

Composite light assemblies have replaceable bulbs that fit into a unit that includes a body, a reflector and a lens. When the bulb fails, it is removable from inside the engine compartment, often with minimal difficulty. The cool-for-its-time 1984 Lincoln Mark VII is believed to be the first production vehicle to use composite lighting.

headlight technologies
Most composite headlights have access panels in the engine compartment that allow the bulb to be changed easily. Image: Ifixit.com
headlight technologies
An example of a 9005 halogen headlight bulb from Sylvania.
Headlight Technologies
Credit goes to the 1984 Lincoln Mark VII for being the first production vehicle to use composite headlights. Image: Hemmings.com

The composite headlight evolved to include a dedicated projector assembly within the lighting fixture. There are claims that the projector assembly, which consists of a reflector, lens and often a cutoff shield or shutter, provides more efficient light output than a reflector-style. It’s probable, but the specific performance comes down to the engineer who designed the light.

Headlight Technologies
An example of a projector-style headlight from a late-model Mazda MX-5 Miata. Image: Hooniverse.com
Headlight Technologies
An example of several projector assemblies. These are commonly used in upgrades to reflector-style composite lights. Image: theretrofitsource.com
Headlight Technologies
This 2013 Subaru WRX STI features upgrade OEM-style HID projectors, bulbs and ballasts.

Headlight Technologies

Whether the vehicle has sealed-beam or composite lights, there are dozens of bulb shapes and sizes. Sealed-beam bulbs came in various round and square sizes. Some bulbs had both low- and high-beam filaments in the same assembly. Bulbs for composite lights are similar, though much more compact. These bulbs are also available with single or low/high designs in one assembly.

Headlight Technologies
Some bulbs have dual filaments to provide low- and high-beam solutions from a single package. Image: Sylvania-automotive.com
Headlight Technologies
A small selection of bulb types. There are more than a dozen popular mounting flange and connector options.

Many composite light assemblies have a single bulb with a single light source that handles low- and high-beam conditions. When you want to see farther down the road, you pull back on the light control stalk on the left side of the steering column, activating an electromechanical solenoid in the projector. The solenoid moves the shutter out of the way, allowing all the light from the bulb to illuminate the road.

Headlight Technologies
An example of a headlight projector with a motorized shutter to produce different light patterns for low- and high-beam operation. Image: Rennlist.com user virkdoc

The Evolution of Automotive Headlight Bulbs

Headlights have come a long way from oil lamps burning in large housings on the front of the vehicle in 1880. Though electric lights started becoming popular in homes around this same time, it wasn’t until after 1910 that electric lights on vehicles became popular. These “higher-performance” light sources quickly became a requirement for new vehicles.

Early incandescent headlamp bulb technologies didn’t differ much from the lights some vehicles still come with today. In an incandescent light bulb, a filament made from tungsten is enclosed in an airtight glass chamber. When electricity passes through the filament, it heats up and produces light.

Headlight Technologies
An example of a dual-filament incandescent light bulb for 1935 through 1939 Ford vehicles. Image: speedwaymotors.com

The next evolution was the halogen incandescent light bulb. According to several sources, halogen headlamps were developed in 1961 by a group of European light bulb and headlamp makers. Halogen lamps use the same filament design as a conventional incandescent bulb but have a small amount of a halogen gas like iodine or bromine added to the chamber. Adding these chemicals results in the filament burning brighter and producing a whiter light. It also resulted in a bulb design that lasted significantly longer than its simple incandescent counterparts.

Interestingly, these bulbs weren’t initially permitted in the United States as they were too bright and exceeded the government’s 37,500-candela output limit. In Europe, headlights could have an output of 140,000 candelas per side. The light output limit in the United States was raised to 75,000 per side in 1979. An extremely detailed outline for lighting requirements and limitations can be found in Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 108. If you ever want to geek out or have a thorough understanding of the laws that govern all vehicle lights, give FMVSS 108 a read.

Headlight Technologies
An example of a 9007-style Sylvania halogen headlight bulb. Image: Sylvania-automotive.com

The next evolution in lighting technology was the high-intensity discharge (HID) bulb. Rather than applying the direct battery voltage to a filament, HID lighting systems have an external ballast module that feeds high-voltage, high-frequency energy to a pair of tungsten electrodes enclosed in a glass chamber. The chamber is filled with a noble gas and a metal or metal salt. Light is produced as the voltage jumps from one electrode to another, like a welder’s arc. This type of light source is often called an arc lamp.

The benefits of HID bulbs include a whiter light than incandescent or halogen bulbs and a more efficient system. Xenon arc lamps are a specific kind of HID system that uses xenon gas in the bulb. Other chemicals like mercury vapor, metal halide and sodium vapor are common in commercial applications such as high-bay lighting, theatre and movie lighting, and film projectors. There are even HID lamps that use radioactive isotopes like thorium and krypton-85 to help make the arc initiation easier. Bulbs for automotive applications do not use these radioactive materials.

Headlight Technologies
An example of a Sylvania D1R HID headlight bulb with an integrated electronic igniter module. Image: Sylvania-automotive.com

A potential drawback of HID lamps is radio frequency interference. The high-output voltage of the ballast that drives the bulb (which can be over 400 volts) combined with a high switching frequency that can exceed 100 kHz can produce harmonic information that can affect both AM and FM radio reception. Many less-expensive aftermarket HID upgrade kits have this interference problem.

Headlight Technologies
An example of an inexpensive aftermarket HID headlight upgrade kit with ballasts and bulbs.

Light emitting diode (LED) headlights are another newer technology that has provided several options to vehicle manufacturers. LEDs are solid-state semiconductors that emit light photons as electrons flow through the device. Early LEDs were expensive, costing hundreds of dollars per lumen of light output. Improvements and advancements in materials, production quantity and design have evolved so that LEDs now cost hundredths of a cent per lumen.

An important benefit of LED lighting technology is that it’s quite efficient. These lights are also incredibly compact and last tens of thousands of hours. LED lights reach their maximum output level almost instantly, whereas halogen bulbs take a part of a second, and HID bulbs can take several seconds. This instant illumination makes LEDs ideal for turn signals and brake lights where every millisecond matters in an emergency. Studies have shown that LEDs can save more than a tenth of a second in warning other drivers. When moving at 65 miles per hour, one-tenth of a second represents a distance of 9.53 feet. That’s significant. The compact size of LEDs allows automakers to get creative with styling, as the space needed to produce adequate light output on the road is minimal.

While LEDs are efficient, they are small and remain sensitive to heat. You will note that LED lighting assemblies include large heatsinks to ensure that the individual LED chips don’t overheat.

Headlight Technologies
Many cities and towns have switched to LED street lighting, which consumes significantly less power. Image: gecurrent.com
Headlight Technologies
A fan-cooled aluminum heatsink designed for a 100-watt, 8,000-lumen LED chip.

A drawback of aftermarket LED bulbs is that they haven’t historically been able to place the light source in the same location as an incandescent or HID bulb because of the need for the heatsink. This limitation can reduce the effective light output of the assembly because the reflector or projector optics might not be optimized properly. The only way to know if an aftermarket LED bulb will work in your vehicle is to test it before purchasing.

Headlight Technologies
An example of a LED headlight from a 2023 Hyundai G70 sedan. Image: motor1.com
Headlight Technologies
An ATOM LED replacement headlight bulb from Lumens rated accurately at 3,000 lumens of light output.

It’s worth noting that the little orange or yellow LED chip you see on each side of an aftermarket LED bulb is an array of multiple LED elements. These are called chip on board LEDs, or more commonly, an LED COB. A single COB includes dozens of individual LEDs mounted on a thermally efficient substrate and covered by a phosphor coating designed to produce a specific light color.

Headlight Technologies
An example of an LED COB that includes many LED elements in a single housing.

The latest technology in automotive lighting is lasers. Companies like Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz offer laser-equipped high beams on several vehicles. These lights use a solid-state laser diode to shoot an intense blue light at a yellow phosphor. The phosphor is similar to the yellow rectangles you see in LED lights. Reflectors and lenses can then direct the output of this light source to illuminate the road.

The benefit of laser light solutions is that they are even more compact and energy-efficient than LEDs. Production vehicles first implemented laser headlights in 2014. Laser high beams can illuminate up to 600 meters in front of a car or SUV. Because of the intensity of the laser light sources, active light control technologies help ensure that oncoming drivers aren’t blinded.

Headlight Technologies
With four times the light output of LED bulbs, laser headlights manufactured by OSRAM are ideal for high-beam applications.
Headlight Technologies
The utterly bonkers all-electric Audi S1 Hoonitron features laser lights to ensure maximum visibility at insane speeds.

Light Brightness and Other Lies

Just as with incredibly overstated amplifier and speaker power ratings, the aftermarket lighting industry has fallen prey to completely bogus light output claims. I can tell you with the utmost confidence that a single 9005 LED bulb with two chips will not produce 22,000 lumens of light output.

To understand the math behind the above statement, a state-of-the-art LED COB can produce about 400 lumens of light with 1.6 amps of current. LED intensity is controlled by how much current flows through the device. So, to produce 22,000 lumens of light, the bulb would need to draw 88 amps of current.

The specifications provided with these so-called 22,000-lumen LED bulbs note that they use 80 watts. At 12 volts, that’s 6.67 amps of current. A more appropriate light output claim would be about 1,670 lumens if they used the highest-performing LED COBs available. Oh, one last note: Many aftermarket LED bulb manufacturers quote the light output from the pair of bulbs. So, the “bogus factor” can be divided in half and still be impossible. As always, buyer beware, and don’t believe everything you read.

Last and certainly not least, upgrading your headlight bulbs is not a free-for-all. As with audio system upgrades, enthusiasts often think they know more than the engineers who designed the factory-installed systems. Longevity, legal compliance and thermal management are key considerations when designing a lighting system. We’ve seen many examples of high-output aftermarket headlight bulbs melting reflectors and lenses. We suggest the “better solutions” approach rather than the “brute force” approach to improving forward lighting.

Headlight Technologies
A reflector assembly inside a first-generation Hyundai Genesis sedan melted because 55-watt bulbs were used instead of 35-watt units.

Up next in this series, we’ll examine aspects of lighting like lumens, candelas, lux, watts, color and temperature.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Lighting, RESOURCE LIBRARY

How Is the Power from My Amp Divided Between My Subwoofers?

Amp Power

We see a lot of questions like “My car audio amp can produce 800 watts; how much power does each of my subs get?” If you aren’t versed in the calculation basics of Ohm’s law, the answer might not be intuitive. Let’s dive into the math and logic that will let us calculate how the power from an amplifier is distributed through multiple speakers or subwoofers.

How Much Power Does an Amplifier Produce?

Without going off about the unimportance of power production versus amplifier quality, we should discuss what determines how much power an amplifier can produce. Most car audio amps use a switching power supply that is designed to chop up and boost the 12 to 14 volts from the battery and alternator, then regulate it to fixed DC voltages that drive the output devices in the amplifier. We refer to these as rail voltages, and they determine the maximum voltage available to the speaker terminals and, ultimately, the speakers or subwoofers.

If we use the example of an amplifier with +30- and -30-volt rails, we have a maximum theoretical voltage of 60 volts that we can apply to the speaker. Ignoring some losses through the output devices themselves, this amp could provide 900 watts into a 4-ohm load. The formula to calculate power given voltage and resistance is P = V^2/R.

Unless the amplifier uses a stiffly regulated power supply design, the rail voltages are typically a fixed multiple of the supply voltage. We’ll ignore some losses and say 30 volts is 2.08 times the supply voltage of 14.4 volts. If the supply voltage drops to 12 volts, our rail voltage would then drop to 25 volts, and we’d only have 50 volts we could use to drive a subwoofer. Our maximum theoretical power is now only 625 watts. This example highlights the importance of ensuring that the most possible voltage is delivered to your amplifier and why you should never skimp on power wiring.

How Amplifier Power Is Divided into Multiple Subwoofers

Our example so far has discussed a single 4-ohm load. What if we have two 8-ohm subwoofers wired together to the amp? How much power can it produce? The answer depends on how the subwoofers are wired. If the subwoofers are wired in parallel to get a net load impedance of 4 ohms, then the amp would produce 900 watts – the same as with a single 4-ohm load. Because both loads are identical, that 900 watts of output is shared evenly between the drivers, with 450 watts going to each.

Now, what happens if we decide to wire the subwoofers in series? An 8-ohm subwoofer wired in series with another 8-ohm subwoofer gives us a net load impedance of 16 ohms. Our amplifier can only produce 156.25 watts into a 16-ohm load. As both subwoofers have the same impedance, the power to each sub is divided evenly, with each receiving 78.125 watts. It’s very unlikely that we would want to run an amplifier at 16 ohms, even though it might be quite efficient.

The amount of power an amplifier produces depends on the maximum unclipped voltage it can produce on the speaker outputs, the impedance of the speakers connected to the amp, and how much current the amplifier can supply to the speakers. Why is current a consideration? What if we connect a 2-ohm subwoofer to our example amplifier? Theoretically, the amp should be able to provide 1,250 watts. In order for this to happen, the amplifier needs to be able to supply 25 amps to the load. That formula is I = P ÷ V, where I is current in amps, P is power in watts and V is voltage. For a well-designed, high-power amplifier, 25 amps isn’t an unreasonable amount of current.

What happens if we connect a 1-ohm load to our amp? The theoretical power jumps to 2,500 watts, and the amplifier would need to be able to supply 50 amps of current to the load. If you’ve looked at amplifier specifications where an amplifier’s power output capabilities don’t roughly double as the load impedance is divided by two, it’s likely because the amp can’t provide the required current into the lower impedances.

Amp Power
Four ARC 8 subwoofers powered by an X2-1100.5 by Speed of Sound in Memphis, Tennessee.

Why the Confusion about Amp Power Ratings?

Over the decades, we’ve been taught to think that amplifiers double their power when the load impedance is cut in half. An amp that produces 300 watts into 4 ohms should produce 600 watts into 2 ohms and 1,200 watts into a 1-ohm load. The massive “cheater” amps that were popular in the 1980s and ’90s were often rated similarly to this. However, things have changed significantly.

Let’s look at an example of a modern high-quality subwoofer amplifier like the Rockford Fosgate T500-1bdCP. This amp is rated to produce 300 watts into a 4-ohm load, 500 watts into a 2-ohm load and 500 watts into a 1-ohm load. We can tell from the 4-ohm rating that the amp likely has rail voltages of roughly plus and minus 17.5 volts. Knowing how Rockford Fosgate under-rates their products, the rails are likely running at 19 volts, and that amp would produce roughly 360-ish watts into a 4-ohm load. Nevertheless, let’s stick with the 17.5-volt rails for this discussion. Running a 2-ohm load should then produce just over 600 watts. It’s clear that current delivery into the lower impedance is the limiting factor if the amp is rated for 500 watts. Our math says the amp is limited to about 17.5 amps of current into the speaker load. That’s why the amp doesn’t produce more power into a 1-ohm load.

Amp Power
Three ARC Audio SW10 subwoofers powered by a 1,000-watt ARC 1000.2 amp. Each sub gets 333 watts of power.

Current-Limited Amplifier Design Considerations

Why would a manufacturer of high-quality audio products make a design decision to limit how much current one of their amplifiers can produce? The first consideration is heat management. We’ve tested many Rockford Fosgate amplifiers in the past few years. Their high-mass heatsink designs typically allow their amplifiers to run at maximum output continuously for at least 30 minutes if not more.

While 30 minutes doesn’t seem like a long time, for car audio amplifiers, that’s an amazing performance. We’ve seen compact amplifiers from supposedly reputable brands that overheated and shut down in less than three minutes at their maximum undistorted output. Some Brazilian amplifiers we’ve tested shut down in less than two minutes at full power. Reliability is as important as audio quality – you don’t want your music to stop playing because a poorly designed amplifier overheats.

The second reason for the limited-current design is that the output when driving a 4-ohm load is higher. In a classic design that is closer to doubling its power, the amp would only make 125 watts into 4 ohms if it made 500 watts when driving a 1-ohm load. Amp design is much like speaker design in that you have to trade one performance factor for another. As such, it’s not really a “current limited” design; it’s just optimized in a different way than the car audio industry is used to.

Amp Power
The T500-1bdCP not only sounds great, but its thermal management helps ensure reliable operation.

Guidelines for Amplifier Power Distribution

Here’s the takeaway in terms of figuring out how much power each subwoofer or speaker connected to an amp will receive. First, determine what your net load will be to the amp. Our article about “Ohms and Loads” can help you with that. Next, look at the amplifier’s published specifications to determine how much power the amp should make. If the specifications aren’t compliant with the CTA-2006-D standard, be wary of their accuracy. Finally, divide the expected power from the amp evenly among the subwoofers connected to the amp.

The above comes with a caveat: All the speakers or subwoofers must have the same impedance. We strongly recommend not mixing and matching drivers with different impedances on the same amplifier channels.

A single 4-ohm subwoofer on our T500-1bdCP would receive 300 watts. A pair of 8-ohm subs wired to a 4-ohm load would result in the amp producing 300 watts, and each driver would get 150 watts of power. If we run a single 2-ohm sub on the amp, it would get 500 watts. If we ran two 4-ohm subs wired in parallel, the amp would produce 500 watts, and each subwoofer would get 250 watts of power. A single 1-ohm sub would get 500 watts. A pair of 2-ohm subwoofers wired in parallel would get 250 watts each. Four 4-ohm subs wired in parallel would result in the amp producing 500 watts, and each sub would get 125 watts.

One last word of advice: Loading your amplifier down to lower impedances in hopes of it making more power will dramatically reduce its efficiency and likely shorten its lifespan.

Upgrade Your Vehicle with a Subwoofer System Today!

We’ll circle back to the beginning of this article to remind everyone that power production has no correlation to audio system quality. You could have a 2,500-watt amplifier, but a better-designed 1,000-watt amplifier might sound better and produce bass that is more accurate.

If you have several subwoofers and want help choosing a great-sounding amp for them, drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer and find out about the solutions they have available. They can explain the options for wiring the subwoofers you have or suggest solutions that will offer amazing performance.

Lead-In image credit: Thanks to Bing from Simplicity in Sound in Milpitas, California, for providing the photo of the four Sony Mobile ES XS-W104ES subwoofers.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

My Car Stereo System Sounds Worse After a Speaker Upgrade. Why?

Speaker Upgrade

Before about 2000, upgrading a factory-installed car audio system was pretty easy. You could start with a new set of speakers and a subwoofer and have something quite enjoyable. In the last few decades, automakers, or more specifically, the companies that supply their audio system components, have learned how to maximize the performance of the inexpensive speakers they use. While this makes the audio systems sound better, the same processes they use can result in a speaker upgrade making your stereo system sound awful. We look at why this happens and how a professional installer can work around it.

Sound Quality = Smooth Frequency Response

Shopping for new speakers can be challenging. Listening to the same music at the same volume level on different options is nearly impossible. High-quality speakers all have one thing in common: flat frequency response. You don’t want to be listening to Lorde or Billie Eilish and have their voices sound hissy and harsh rather than smooth and natural. When voices sound like real voices, a key reason is a smooth frequency response.

Here’s an example of the importance of frequency response. Imagine you have two identical vehicles. One has a set of absolutely top-of-the-line component speakers installed in the doors. A high-quality amplifier provides power to the speakers, and an equally high-quality radio serves as the system audio source. A second identical vehicle has the same amp and radio but uses moderately priced speakers and includes a carefully calibrated digital signal processor between the radio and the amp. Aside from the potential improvement in the accuracy of the soundstage and how the system images, the digital signal processor offers equalization that compensates for reflections and resonances in the vehicle to deliver fairly smooth frequency response. The system with the DSP will sound more realistic and will be more enjoyable.

The companies like Harman, Bose, Panasonic and Sony that provide speakers, amplifiers and radios to car manufacturers understand the importance of smooth frequency response. This factor is key to their ability to deliver good sound with low- to medium-quality speakers. One tactic they use to provide a good listening experience is installing small midrange speakers – instead of a tweeter – on the dash, in the A-pillars or at the top of the door. The equalizer in the radio or amplifier is then adjusted so that these small speakers deliver good high-frequency performance. One of the first times we ran across this was in the second-generation Dodge Intrepid and its sister vehicles. The amplifier in those vehicles had surprisingly impressive processing capabilities, even for its late-’90s vintage. This audio system design technique is now popular in many makes and models of vehicles.

If you’re curious why they use a small midrange rather than just a tweeter, check out this article.

When Speaker Upgrades Go Awry

Here’s a scenario we hear of quite often: A client buys a set of coaxial speakers and installs them in the dash of their pickup truck. The speakers are connected to the factory-installed amplifier. In theory, this should be a nice upgrade, right? The new speakers have far too much high-frequency output because the signal from the factory amp has been equalized for a speaker without a tweeter. The result is a system that sounds overly sibilant. If you’re lucky, you might be able to tame the screechiness by turning down the treble control on the radio. In most cases, though, the result still isn’t ideal.

Speaker Upgrade
Almost 10 dB of high-frequency boost from a BMW sedan. Image: Milton Benavides, Speed of Sound Technologies, Milford, Connecticut.
Speaker Upgrade
10 dB of high-frequency boost from a Toyota sedan. Image: Ken Ward, Elettromedia.
Speaker Upgrade
Almost 12 dB of boost in a Chevy pickup truck. Image: Felipe Tabarez, Autoelectronica, Jesus Maria, Mexico.
Speaker Upgrade
Roughly 9 dB of high-frequency boost from a Chevy SUV. Image: Seth Ranney, Progressive Audio, Medford, Oregon.
Speaker Upgrade
More than 12 dB of boost in a Ford SUV. Image: Christopher Kaufmann, Daryll’s Car Audio, Buffalo, New York.
Speaker Upgrade
Extensive high-frequency boost found in an Audi coupe. Image: Fraser Hiebert, NextGen Automotive Installation, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.
Speaker Upgrade
High-frequency boost in a Ram pickup truck. Image: Bentley Barchard, Audio Crew, Moncton, New Brunswick.

As you can see from the above measurements, the boosted high-frequency phenomenon is far from isolated. These professionals have the tools and training required to measure the frequency response of the signals coming from the radio or amplifier so they can design an upgrade solution that will sound good.

How To Deal with Boosted High-Frequency Response

So, if you want to upgrade your car audio system, what do you do? First, visit a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer that can make these frequency response measurements. Once they confirm whether your audio system has this high-frequency boost, they can suggest a speaker solution that will offer the performance you want.

If there’s a lot of equalization in the signal, the next step will be to select an amplifier with a built-in digital signal processor or a separate amplifier and DSP. Modifying the signal’s frequency response to the speakers is the only way to ensure that they sound correct.

The DSP will help tame much more than aggressive high-frequency output. The equalization process will resolve inconsistencies in the midrange frequencies, unruly resonance in the midbass and peaky response from a subwoofer. The output of each speaker in the system can be adjusted for amplitude and arrival time so that the system will recreate an accurate soundstage with good imaging.

Speaker Upgrade
The ARC Audio Blackbird is an eight-channel amplifier with an integrated digital signal processor.
Speaker Upgrade
Audison’s AF M5.11 bit is a five-channel amp with integrated digital signal processing.
Speaker Upgrade
The Rockford Fosgate DSR1 DSP has eight outputs with all the tools required to make your car’s audio system sound amazing.

There are a few vehicle platforms where an experienced technician can adjust the equalization presets in the factory audio system. This is a reasonable in-between solution. It could reduce the high-frequency boost but won’t result in audio system performance that matches the inclusion of a properly adjusted DSP.

Another option is to replace the factory-installed radio and amplifier with an aftermarket solution. This upgrade will eliminate any high-frequency boost, but you will have a system with performances similar to the situation we discussed.

However, if you choose a radio like the Sony XAV-9000ES or XAV-9500ES with its built-in eight-band parametric equalizer, your installer can fine-tune the system for the new speakers. There may be other radios with dedicated equalizers for each output channel. However, an EQ that affects all the speakers in the system won’t yield the same results.

Speaker Upgrade
The Sony XAV-9000ES and XAV-9500ES radios have an eight-band dedicated parametric equalizer on each output channel.

Choose an Expert to Help Upgrade Your Car Audio System

One last tidbit of information before we send you off: The technician working on your vehicle will need to test the speaker outputs for the presence of all-pass filters before deciding whether to apply time correction to the new system. Without this information, you may have uneven midrange performance and a severe lack of midbass.

As you can see, upgrading a modern car audio system isn’t all that easy. And not all car audio shops around the country have kept up with the technologies vehicle manufacturers are using to optimize the audio solutions they deliver. If you want your car stereo to sound better, do your research to find a shop with the tools, training and products to deliver on your goals. Finding that shop might take some time and legwork, but if you want your car audio speaker upgrade to sound great, it’s time well spent.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Is Your Radio Turned Off or Killing Your Battery?

Kill Battery

You’d think that something as simple as operating an on/off button or switch would deliver predictable results. These days, many electronic devices remain on and continue to draw small amounts of current, even when you think they’re off. Let’s look at how car radios work regarding their on/off status and how much current they draw.

Parasitic Current Draw Kills Batteries

This term should be very familiar to those adept at troubleshooting automotive and marine electrical systems. A parasitic draw is a circuit that consumes energy when you don’t want it to. The concept is similar to leaving the dome light in your car on overnight after searching for something that has tumbled into that abyss between the seat and the center console.

In reality, a parasitic draw consumes energy that’s unexpected or unwanted. You know that something evident like a dome light would kill a battery. If all the lights are off, but your battery is drawn flat in a day, you must address the problem.

Depending on the features included with your vehicle, even when it’s off, systems can draw upwards of 50 milliamps of current. If you have keyless entry, the receiver is awake and listening for a signal from your key fob. If you have a “smart trunk” system, there’s likely a second receiver in the back of the car listening for a signal from your key fob. All radios with clocks draw a tiny current to keep the clock running.

It’s Not Off; It Just Looks Off

Any device with a momentary on/off button has a tiny computer awake and waiting for the signal to spring to life. Your smartphone is a perfect example of this. The power button on the side or back sends a signal to the microcontroller and tells it to wake up. That microcontroller must draw a tiny bit of power from the battery to listen to the signal. This is one reason why devices with rechargeable batteries drain, even when “turned off.”

A desktop or laptop computer is another example. Not only can they be woken by tapping the power button on the case, but many can monitor a physical network port for a command that will bring the system to life. These commands are called Wake on Lan (WOL) and are great if you want to access a computer at home from a remote location.

Car Radios and Parasitic Draws

Getting to the point of the article, if your car radio doesn’t have a mechanical on/off switch like you might have found in a twin-shaft radio from the ’70s or early ’80s, it will draw a small amount of current from the battery when you turn it off. A better description of the state your radio is in after you press the power button is “sleep mode.” I measured the current consumption of a Sony XAV-AX7000 multimedia receiver in my lab. When on, but the volume turned down, it drew 776 milliamps of current. Pressing the power button to shut it off dropped the current draw to about 2 milliamps.

Kill Battery
The Sony XAV-AX7000 includes Sony’s High-Power 45-watts-per-channel amplifier.

Two milliamps isn’t much current. With that said, your battery’s health isn’t good, and going on vacation or a business trip for a week will affect how much energy is left to start the vehicle. On the other hand, a remote car starter with a two-way remote can draw 15 to 20 milliamps of current. A dashcam might draw upwards of 400 milliamps when in parking mode, which could kill a weak battery overnight.

If you’ve ever looked at the wiring for a typical car or marine radio, you’ll know there are two “power” connections. A yellow wire typically needs to be connected to a constant power source. This wire is what feeds power to the microcontroller in the radio. A red wire should be connected to a switched power source. This wire is usually labeled as “accessory,” and the power source it is connected to should only be live when the ignition is in the accessory or on/run position. This wire typically only provides a signal to the microcontroller and doesn’t provide significant amounts of current to anything in the radio.

Kill Battery
A typical wire harness for a car radio.

When no voltage is applied to the red wire, the radio “turns off.” Once again, this can be misleading because the yellow wire still provides a small amount of current to let the microcontroller monitor the red wire for a signal. We can consider this something akin to a “deep sleep” mode. Electronics manufacturers often refer to this measurement as the Dark Current.

The same Sony radio dropped its current draw to about 300 microamps when the power was removed from the red accessory wire. This current draw performs much better than radios from a few decades ago.

Car audio amplifiers, signal processors and integration interfaces also have small amounts of dark-current draw.

Marine Radios and Parasitic Draws

A little over a decade ago, Clarion introduced a marine radio solution with only two power wires: red and black. The radio was designed to include memory that would retain settings when power was removed from the unit. Items like station presets and equalizer and crossover settings would be retained when you turned on the boat. In a conventional marine radio with three power wires (constant, accessory and ground), radios would forget settings if you removed power from the yellow wire.

Parasitic draws are a concern in marine applications because most boats are only used on weekends. You roam around the lake or river for a few hours Saturday and Sunday, then tie the boat up at the dock for the week. That draw from the radio over the week would dramatically lower battery reserves, and the limited run time over the weekend wouldn’t recharge them fully. Boat batteries don’t last very long as they are often drained heavily and only partially recharged.

The solution is two-fold. If you plan on upgrading the radio in your boat, see if you can find a radio that uses a two-wire connection. One wire would be ground, and the other goes to the accessory or radio circuit. When you turn off the boat, no power is drawn from the battery.

Second, purchase a battery charger for your boat. It can be as simple as a Battery Tender Junior or a premium solution like the CTEK Multi US 7002. We’ve had phenomenal success with the latter; its recondition mode has restored the chemistry and capacity of batteries that less advanced changers and vehicle alternators couldn’t bring back to life. Whatever you decide to use, make sure it’s an intelligent unit that knows when the battery is full and switches to a float mode to prevent the battery from being overcharged.

You can also have a professional install a master battery switch in your boat. This switch makes disconnecting the battery easy if you’re going home from the cottage for the work week.

Kill Battery
A battery switch is a convenient and safe way to ensure that the battery in your boat can’t be drained by a radio or fishfinder.

If your application uses Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) or some Valve Released Lead Acid (VRLA) battery, your charger should have a specific charging mode for this type. These batteries rest at a slightly higher voltage than conventional lead-acid units. Sorry, we get a little geeky when talking about batteries. Regardless, proper maintenance is crucial to their longevity and reliability. Can you imagine the frustration of heading out on the lake for an afternoon of fun, only to be left stranded because the battery is too dead to restart the motor? What a mess!

Kill Battery
Our favorite battery charger/maintainer/reconditioner is the CTEK Multi US 7002.

Have Parasitic Power Draws Resolved Quickly

If you’ve run into a situation where the battery in your car, truck, boat, side-by-side or motorcycle constantly dies, you likely have a parasitic power draw. A local specialty mobile enhancement retailer can help troubleshoot the system with a current clamp or thermal imaging camera. Once they pinpoint the issue, they can repair or replace the misbehaving component, fix a wiring issue or devise a solution to ensure that your battery won’t die when you’re ready to head to work or school. It could be as simple as something wired incorrectly by an amateur or the incorrect selection of an aftermarket upgrade. Either way, you don’t want your car radio killing your battery.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

A Look at Shopping for Wakeboard Tower Speakers for Your Boat

Wakeboard Speakers

If your family and friends enjoy wakeboarding or waterskiing, you may have considered adding a set of wakeboard tower speakers to your boat. These marine audio speaker systems are designed to project sound to the person at the end of the tow rope rather than fill the boat with sound. Their design is often unique, and the speakers used are different from those mounted in the hull or a storage compartment. Let’s take a look at some design considerations for wakeboard tower speakers.

Wakeboard Tower Speaker Purchasing Considerations

The first thing you’ll need to decide when shopping for wakeboard tower speakers is their size. The size of the speaker has several benefits and a few drawbacks. The first consideration is how high your wakeboard tower bar is above the floor of your boat. If the bar is only 6 feet high, adding a 10-inch tower enclosure will result in you and your boatmates hitting your heads on them when you’re moving around. Tower speakers from various reputable companies are available in 6.5-, 7.7-, 8-, 10- and 12-inch diameters. Before you head off to a store to audition the speakers, check to see how much clearance you have.

The next consideration for speaker size is weight. It should go without saying that adding weight to your tower bar can, if the weight is significant enough, affect the stability or handling of your boat. Now, a pair of 8-inch wakeboard tower speakers isn’t likely to be noticeable. However, four 10- or 12-inch enclosures could easily weigh 60 pounds or more. If you have a 24-foot wakeboard boat that can take on a few thousand pounds of ballast, this is less of an issue than on a 20-foot boat with more limited weight-gaining abilities.

The benefit of larger-diameter speakers is their efficiency. A well-engineered 6.5-inch tower speaker might produce 88 dB SPL of output (at 1 meter) when driven with 1 watt of power. Moving up to a 10-inch speaker, that number can jump to a crazy 97 dB SPL. The smaller enclosures would need to be fed with 2.8 watts of power to produce the same output. At higher volume levels, the difference is more significant. To replicate the output of the big speakers getting 20 watts, the smaller, less-efficient solution would need to handle 159 watts of power. If you’re limited in how much power the electrical system on your boat can supply, then the efficiency of a larger speaker is quite worthwhile.

A second benefit of larger speakers is that they can often handle significantly more power than their smaller brethren. This added power handling typically translates into an increased maximum output level. You might consider a pair of 10-inch cans instead of four 8-inch speakers. The term “cans” is industry slang for a wakeboard tower speaker enclosure.

Wakeboard Speakers
Rockford Fosgate’s M2WL-10H tower speakers feature a 10-inch woofer, a 1-inch horn tweeter and integrated Color-Optix RGB lighting.

High-Efficiency or Full-Range?

There are two schools of thought when designing wakeboard tower speakers. First, some companies use somewhat of a conventional marine audio speaker in their enclosures but optimize them with less compliance (softer spider and surround) to play lower better when installed in a small enclosure. These enclosures are more a full-range solution and often produce reasonable midbass output.

The second type of power speaker uses a midrange driver that’s more like what you’d find in a concert or public address speaker system. These drivers have very light cones with shorter, lighter voice coil windings. These designs are quite efficient, but they don’t produce much midbass because the drivers have minimal excursion capability. As a result, if you try to crank up the bass on this type of speaker, it will distort and sound terrible. It could also be damaged easily.

Wakeboard Speakers
Hertz offers several 8-inch marine tower speakers with RGB lighting and your choice of black or white enclosures.

Tower Mounting Brackets

When shopping for a tower speaker, you need to take a close look at the mounting system. A larger tower speaker could weigh 20 to 25 pounds. Consider the abuse it will take as your boat pounds over waves to fling the kids off a tube or other inflatable. That poor speaker enclosure could be subjected to several times its resting mass because of these g-forces.

The mounting hardware must be designed to perfectly fit the tower bar on your boat. You need to know whether your tower bar is round or oval, and you should have an exact measurement of its diameter or circumference. Most high-quality tower speakers have machined or cast aluminum brackets with rubber inserts. Your specific application may require that the speakers be angled relative to the mounting bracket. Consider the mounting options and inspect the mounting brackets at the store before purchasing to ensure that they’re robust and well-engineered. The last thing you want is for the speakers to be pointed at the sky or down at the water because they can be adjusted the way you want.

Wakeboard Speakers
The Hertz Q-OS² (Quick Orientation & Release for Sound & Safety) allows your installer to rotate the enclosures to direct them toward skiers.

Marine Tower Speaker Lighting

If you’ve been paying attention to the marine speaker market over the last few years, you know cool lighting is all the rage. Most reputable companies have RGB LED lighting built into the speakers, and many have lighting upgrades for their tower speaker enclosures. If you want your speakers to look funky or cool, ask about the lighting controller options available for them. Most lighting controllers come with a radio-frequency remote control or Bluetooth connection to a smartphone app. A few will let your installer connect the output of your radio to the controller so the lighting can change with the beat of the music.

If you plan to upgrade all the speakers on your boat to units with lighting, be sure the controller has enough power output capability to drive them. Also, look for integrated lighting solutions that are 100% waterproof with an IPX6 or higher rating.

Wakeboard Speakers
Hertz offers a stand-alone RGB LED controller called the HM RGB 1 BK to control the tower speakers’ lighting.

Wiring Considerations

A clean and tidy wakeboard tower speaker installation will feature well-concealed wiring. Ideally, you don’t want speaker wires zip-tied to the outside of the wakeboard tower tubing. Talk with your installer about how they’ll run wiring and whether they’ll add weather-tight quick disconnects if you need to remove the tower for winter storage. Many tower speakers will include a Deutsch or Amphenol connector integrated into the fiberglass or plastic housing for speaker and lighting connections.

Additional considerations for tower speaker wiring are the wire size, construction and quality. For example, if you have a pair of 10-inch enclosures that will receive up to 250 watts of power from an amplifier, you could be wasting energy if the installer uses an 18-gauge wire. Therefore, we’d suggest that at least 14 AWG wire be used for high-power marine tower speaker installations.

Second, make sure the wire is high quality. Because it will be used in a high-humidity application, you’ll want to avoid copper-clad aluminum wiring. Avoiding aluminum wiring is even more critical if you use your boat in salt water. The ideal choice is a tinned copper wire. The tinning helps to prevent corrosion.

Depending on the design of your wakeboard tower, you may want to look for a speaker solution with wiring that is completely concealed. Many boat-brand-specific towers route the wiring up through the center of the mounting bracket. Check into this before you go shopping.

Wakeboard Speakers
Rockford Fosgate’s marine tower speakers have two wiring options: through the center of the connector or out the back to tidy the installation.

Weather-Resistant Designs

At the very least, your tower speakers will be exposed to the harsh sun for the entire summer. If you live in the South, they could be outdoors all year. Choosing products constructed with weather-resistant materials is crucial to the performance and longevity of your tower speaker system. You’ll want to make sure that the enclosures, wiring and speaker components (woofers cones, tweeter diaphragms and surrounds) are all designed to handle prolonged UV exposure. Confirmation that the products have passed a testing standard like ASTM D4329 is a minimum.

If you’re using your boat in salt water, then corrosion mitigation is also a concern. The ASTM B117 is a salt-fog exposure test that will tell you if components will corrode or discolor when exposed to salt water.

You’ll also want to ensure that the speaker system is water-resistant. An ingress protection rating of at least IPX6 is a good starting point.

Wakeboard Speakers
Rockford Fosgate labels its weather-resistant speakers with the Element Ready moniker, so you know they’ll be durable.

Auditioning Wakeboard Tower Speakers

If you’ve been a longtime reader of BestCarAudio.com, you should be able to predict this last speaker-purchasing suggestion. You will want to audition the speakers you have in mind for your boat. Since this type of speaker will often be played at high volume levels, that’s how you want to audition them. We suggest starting by standing as far away from the speakers as possible and ask the product specialist to play your favorite music at a high volume. While you’re looking for output capability, what you want to capture from this experience is how clear the sound is. The speakers will sound garbled and unclear if they are overdriven because of too much bass information. The demonstration might need to include some setup for high-efficiency speaker designs.

Ultimately, you want to know what you’re buying to understand how they will sound when installed on your boat. If there is any harshness or muddiness in what you hear, you’ll want to keep shopping.

Upgrade Your Boat with New Wakeboard Tower Speakers

If you plan on spending a day on the water, having a great audio system can make things even more enjoyable. Your friends and family members at the end of the tow rope will love enjoying the music through a set of wakeboard tower speakers. Drop by a local specialty mobile enhancement retailer today to find out about the speakers they have available for your application.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Marine Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

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